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Advice on taking apart wooden chair that is stapled

2562 Views 34 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Steve Neul
As the title states - I have a wooden chair that I am going to refinish. I originally thought everything was held by screws, but have come to find out that the main frame is jointed and stapled. From the pieces I was able to get off so far the staples are about an inch or more (kind of like a nail without the head).

Is there an easier way than a rubber mallet? I have the arms, foot rest, and the seat assembly out. I am left with legs, 4 backs, and 4 side pieces (the main frame).

I suppose I could leave this part untouched, however, it would make sanding a lot tougher. Any ideas?

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Actually a rubber mallet is pretty effective. So is a "spreader", which is like a clamp, but works in reverse. The two thoughts are that a quick smack can just pop the parts apart. A slow steady outward pressure can pull them apart. In both cases, the possibility exists that there may be tearout from the disassembly.

If the joint is glued, try a heat gun. That should loosen the bond.






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A caveat about removing pieces from a glued joint is that they may come apart cleanly, or not. If the joint has to be reused, cleaning up the pieces will change the fit. In any case, glued surfaces become poor candidates for yellow or white glues to be re-used. A two part epoxy would be a better choice.






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For an off the shelf stripper, "Aircraft Stripper" is about the best I've used. I wouldn't start with anything else.




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Bought some aircraft remover tonight from the local auto store. This was in an aerosol can. Sprayed it on a few pieces from the above picture and absolutely nothing happened - nothing came off at all.

I don't know what you bought, but Aircraft Stripper that works is too thick for an aerosol can. It would come in a quart can, and be the consistency of a heavy applesauce.

Another choice to remove the finish would be to use a heat gun and a scraper. That will likely remove any finish.






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I don't think it's been established what the wood is. If it's one prone to blotching, a conditioner of some sort may be beneficial. As for staining, if you found a color in an oil base that a one time application was a winner (tried on a sample), that would be an easy finish. Trying to darken an oil base finish can affect how well a topcoat will adhere. Adding additional coats of stain will likely not achieve a desirable color increase.

Keep in mind that when making samples, take them to the final finish, whatever that may be. Just a stained piece will look different when a topcoat has been applied. Using a dye, will afford you the opportunity to apply additional coats.

Dyes can be wiped or sprayed on. If you are equipped to spray a finish (not a rattle can), that would be the way to go.






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