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Advice on Assembly/Outfeed Table and Workshop Design

3511 Views 85 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  DrRobert
I am very novice and like to do woodworking as a hobby when I can. I work out of my garage, which is quite a mess at the moment so its hard to work with anything that's not very small. Breaking down sheet goods with straight cuts is also one of my pain points. I currently have a miter saw on a rolling stand, table saw on rolling stand, a tracksaw, and just ordered a benchtop planer.

I want to organize my garage so that it not only functions better but so that I have a work area that is useful. I currently have a couple of the Worx Pegasus tables and they are nice but I realized they are not flat and still not big enough to breakdown sheet goods. Currently, when I need to breakdown sheet goods I have to do it outside in my driveway with the Worx tables, saw horses, and some rolling stands.

My thought is that I would like to build a multi-function assembly table that can also work as an outfeed table for my table saw. My table saw (DWE7491RS) is on the Dewalt stand that folds up and that's great but when I have to set it up inside, the legs spread far apart and take up quite a bit of space. So I was thinking about maybe incorporating at least the tablesaw into the assembly table OR making a cart for it that could roll right next to the assembly table and essentially extend the table with the surface of the table saw. My miter saw is also on a folding/rolling stand and I would consider incorporating it too, but I am not sold on that either way because it may be nice but it would also make the build more complex.

I have found a few examples or ideas and I am back and forth on these things, and have even thought about combining some of the ideas. My main goals are to try to save space, be portable, add storage below the table surface, provide a flat space for build/assembly of projects, and help be better breakdown sheet goods. I would like to have something like T-Track or some way of clamping stuff too, but that's a nice to have and not on the critical list.

So I am looking for some advice. For example, what has worked well for you? How large of a surface is needed to break down sheet goods (eg 4x8 is obvious size but can it be smaller?). Does it make sense to incorporate the tools like table saw or miter saw or is it better to leave them on their existing stands? Like I said, my most recent thought was to build a rolling table at something like ~3'-4' wide and ~6' long and then build a cart just for the table saw that would roll right up to the table so essentially making a ~8' table and using it as outfeed at the same time. Any thoughts/ideas?

Here are some examples/ideas I have found.

Mobile Miter / Table Saw Workbench Plans Instant PDF - Etsy

Just finished this miter & table saw combo mobile workbench : Workbenches (reddit.com)

DIY Building Plans for Mobile Workbench: Miter Saw Stand, Table Saw Stand and Worktable – Come Stay Awhile by Amanda Vernaci | Modern Farmhouse DIY + Home Renovation
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I bought an adjustable height table from Home Depot, Husky 62 in. W x 24 in. D Adjustable Height Solid Wood Top Workbench Table in Black HOLT62XDB12 - The Home Depot.
when I’m not using it as an outfeed table, I use it as an assembly table or work table. I’m tight on space so it works for me.
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I thought I was all set and ready to buy material but I keep coming back to looking at the MFT style setup even if its an add-on. I just keep going back to looking at it. It just seems like it would be a lot of work to do the whole top. I see some portable MFT benches that even look cool. I also have been thinking about how I can get a vice with my setup. I know I should just build but I want to get something good and not have to rebuild or something.

At this point, I was planning to do the 3'x6' with wheels, adjustable legs, and 3/4" plywood for the top. I was planning to use 3/4" plywood or mdf for the bottom shelf. Just can;t decide on whether to try MFT or not, either built-in or add-on.
Have you looked at the Stanton portable MFT that sits on top of a bench?
@djtech2k
If you are new at woodworking, I would not spend any money on a MFT especially if I was short on floor space. Both my workbench and rolling outfeed/assembly table are 2 1/2' X 5'. 2 1/2' front to rear is probably more depth than your kitchen counter tops. 2 1/2 X 5' is 1 1/2 feet narrower than a 4 x8 sheet of plywood or a 15" overhang on each side and 1 1/2 ' shorter on each end of a full sheet of plywood. That is more than adequate for you to work large projects. My workbench and assy/outfeed tables are exactly the same height which is approx 1/4" shorter in height than my table saw. Both of tese benches are on retractable wheels. The tops area double layer of 3/4" plywood - very flat and very stiff. I can unload plywood and lumber and slam them down on both benches.
Anyway, I build furniture and also small stuff. I just thought I would share some info with you.
You can always modify the tops to perform like an MFT table if you want.
@djtech2k
If you are new at woodworking, I would not spend any money on a MFT especially if I was short on floor space. Both my workbench and rolling outfeed/assembly table are 2 1/2' X 5'. 2 1/2' front to rear is probably more depth than your kitchen counter tops. 2 1/2 X 5' is 1 1/2 feet narrower than a 4 x8 sheet of plywood or a 15" overhang on each side and 1 1/2 ' shorter on each end of a full sheet of plywood. That is more than adequate for you to work large projects. My workbench and assy/outfeed tables are exactly the same height which is approx 1/4" shorter in height than my table saw. Both of tese benches are on retractable wheels. The tops area double layer of 3/4" plywood - very flat and very stiff. I can unload plywood and lumber and slam them down on both benches.
Anyway, I build furniture and also small stuff. I just thought I would share some info with you.
I disagree Tony, an MFT is a great way to incorporate alignment and clamping options into a bench that normally doesn’t have them. It doesn’t have to encompass the entire bench, and it can be a portable one as I mentioned.
Thanks. I’m glad I came back to this thread. Seeing all of the great workbenches makes me want the MFT but having a flat work surface that can be used for sheet goods and outfeed is the top priority. I may end up wanting my whole work top as MFT after I use it for a while but for now I think I will build it with 3/4” material and maybe put in some T track for now. Then I may build an MFT that I can put on top of my workbench. I really like Dave Stanton’s and 3x3 Tamar’s portable MFT. I’m not sure how you keep Dave’s from moving around though.

In any event, I think I’m going with the table with maybe some t track with the plan to add a portable MFT afterwards.
I was thinking and starting to wonder if a single sheet of 3/4" will be string enough, especially after I put some T track in it. Of course it will have support braces under the top but with T track grooves, that only leaves about 1/4" of material under it. Anybody ever have problems with strength there? Honestly, its not like mine will probably see any extreme weight but just wondering if I really should double up or at least put maybe another 1/4" sheet under it or something.
Most T track is about 1/2” thick, so you can use strips between rather than routing channels. IMO you need at least a layer of 3/4 and one 1/2” that is sacrificial.

I regret putting T track in my assembly bench. No, you don’t have holes for things to drop through but I rarely usem, the tracks collect screws and if they get glue in them it’s a pain to clean out. That’s me and my shop maybe not an issue for you.

If you are committed to T tracks, If I were to do it over I‘d use the wide Incra track that accepts tracksaw clamps. It would be easier to get screws out of, too 😉
Getting rid of garage clutter is and has always been a sore spot for me. I'm still working out of half of a two car garage and I have the bad habit of hanging on to wood scraps to the point that about 3 times every year I have to do a mass toss out event. For me that's almost as bad as deciding which of my kids gets to eat and which one goes off to the orphanage . Plywood scrap is starting to proliferate.
Time to schedule another mass extinction..
I was in a hurry to put together a better outfeed table recently so it's a plywood top and parts of it don't quite match other parts and the surface is just 1/4" material which if you don't know means constant re-nailing loose ends back down so I have another half sheet of melamine just staring me down and daring me to take the plunge to destroy the old one and rebuild the new one.. The problem is finding time between jobs to get it done..
You've saved wood out of the burn pile while its lit, haven't you? C'mon fess up. Guilty as charged ✋
How far will the fence go to the right on that saw? I think 30” would be a minimal capacity for sheet goods, 36-40 better. That said, you need something like a 40 x 40 outfeed.

Really, I think you’re better off using a track saw for breaking down sheet goods with that type sawmill but it’s doable.
To the left of the blade is the issue I currently have if I want to cut across an 8' sheet ..22" so gravity is not on my side if I want to cut in down the middle. I use a series of roller stands and they work, but when I clear out the other side of the shop and expand a bit the outfeed is going to wrap around to make the left of the blade at least 25" so gravity doesn't dump plywood or whatever on the floor..
You've saved wood out of the burn pile while its lit, haven't you? C'mon fess up. Guilty as charged ✋
Well, I did once have a smoldering fire under my old saw in the piles of sawdust under it..Cord was frayed.. That was fun.. The cat was actually the fire alarm.. lol
I am still not sure about the material for the top. If I do put in T-Track, do I need more than a 3/4 sheet? I have never built a real outfeed/assembly table before and I have never use T-Track or dog holes so I am not sure about the strength. I doubt I will have anything super heavy on this thing and it will have braces under the top.
I am still not sure about the material for the top. If I do put in T-Track, do I need more than a 3/4 sheet?
I've put T-track in a single sheet of good 3/4" sanded ply table top without problem.
Out of curiosity, how thick would a surface need to be for dog holes? Does it need to be thicker than 3/4”? It looked like Dave Stanton’s portable was 3/4” but many videos with dog holes seem to be 2”+.
Out of curiosity, how thick would a surface need to be for dog holes? Does it need to be thicker than 3/4”? It looked like Dave Stanton’s portable was 3/4” but many videos with dog holes seem to be 2”+.
Stanton uses PARF dogs which are designed to fit very snug so they will work in 3/4.
Ok. I did not know there were a difference in dogs other than diameter. I’d rather not spend a ton of $ on all the accessories so what would be the typical needed diameter and depth for the most universal options?
Ok. I did not know there were a difference in dogs other than diameter. I’d rather not spend a ton of $ on all the accessories so what would be the typical needed diameter and depth for the most universal options?
What do you want to do?
I have spent 40 years of woodworking without using dogs.
Either I use a 'bench hook' or just clamp a board or two the the bench top instead of little dogs.
Dogs are probably better because you can drop one in a hole faster than you can clamp a single board.
If you want to use bench dogs, I would think the bench top should be at least 2" thick, maybe more. I would also think that you would have to put a shelf across the underside of the entire top with a shop vac hook-up to collect the sawdust that falls through the unoccupied dog holes.
As I stated, I never used bench dogs on my benches so I am not talking from experience - just surmising.
I have spent 40 years of woodworking without using dogs.
Either I use a 'bench hook' or just clamp a board or two the the bench top instead of little dogs.
Dogs are probably better because you can drop one in a hole faster than you can clamp a single board.
If you want to use bench dogs, I would think the bench top should be at least 2" thick, maybe more. I would also think that you would have to put a shelf across the underside of the entire top with a shop vac hook-up to collect the sawdust that falls through the unoccupied dog holes.
As I stated, I never used bench dogs on my benches so I am not talking from experience - just surmising.
Tony they are essential to hand work, but are helpful as stops in any kind of work.. Its all a matter of methods of work.
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