Woodworking Talk banner
Cancel

Advice on Assembly/Outfeed Table and Workshop Design

3514 Views 85 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  DrRobert, 
D
I am very novice and like to do woodworking as a hobby when I can. I work out of my garage, which is quite a mess at the moment so its hard to work with anything that's not very small. Breaking down sheet goods with straight cuts is also one of my pain points. I currently have a miter saw on a rolling stand, table saw on rolling stand, a tracksaw, and just ordered a benchtop planer.

I want to organize my garage so that it not only functions better but so that I have a work area that is useful. I currently have a couple of the Worx Pegasus tables and they are nice but I realized they are not flat and still not big enough to breakdown sheet goods. Currently, when I need to breakdown sheet goods I have to do it outside in my driveway with the Worx tables, saw horses, and some rolling stands.

My thought is that I would like to build a multi-function assembly table that can also work as an outfeed table for my table saw. My table saw (DWE7491RS) is on the Dewalt stand that folds up and that's great but when I have to set it up inside, the legs spread far apart and take up quite a bit of space. So I was thinking about maybe incorporating at least the tablesaw into the assembly table OR making a cart for it that could roll right next to the assembly table and essentially extend the table with the surface of the table saw. My miter saw is also on a folding/rolling stand and I would consider incorporating it too, but I am not sold on that either way because it may be nice but it would also make the build more complex.

I have found a few examples or ideas and I am back and forth on these things, and have even thought about combining some of the ideas. My main goals are to try to save space, be portable, add storage below the table surface, provide a flat space for build/assembly of projects, and help be better breakdown sheet goods. I would like to have something like T-Track or some way of clamping stuff too, but that's a nice to have and not on the critical list.

So I am looking for some advice. For example, what has worked well for you? How large of a surface is needed to break down sheet goods (eg 4x8 is obvious size but can it be smaller?). Does it make sense to incorporate the tools like table saw or miter saw or is it better to leave them on their existing stands? Like I said, my most recent thought was to build a rolling table at something like ~3'-4' wide and ~6' long and then build a cart just for the table saw that would roll right up to the table so essentially making a ~8' table and using it as outfeed at the same time. Any thoughts/ideas?

Here are some examples/ideas I have found.

Mobile Miter / Table Saw Workbench Plans Instant PDF - Etsy

Just finished this miter & table saw combo mobile workbench : Workbenches (reddit.com)

DIY Building Plans for Mobile Workbench: Miter Saw Stand, Table Saw Stand and Worktable – Come Stay Awhile by Amanda Vernaci | Modern Farmhouse DIY + Home Renovation
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
Rebelwork
I have PB for a bottom and top of the bench. After about 15 years I got my hands on a free Hickory 8/4 top and replaced it. PB worked fine ..

I did put a lil Johnson’s paste wax on it to seal it from moisture..
Reply
Save
Like
Tony B
Go with a double thickness of plywood. If you glue your layer and screw the the two pieces together also on top of the table saw it should be VERY flat. I always just leave the dry wall screws in place but it certainly wont hurt to remove them after a day or two.
Reply
Save
Like
Tony B
djtech2k said:
I know there was a mention of 3" caster wheels on here versus something smaller. I have been seeing these kind of flip up wheels but they all seem to be 2-1/2". Just wondering if these wheels would be a good option or if they are too small or whatever.

I have that size on several of my tables and they are not really a problem. The 3" wheels are just noticably easier to push around especially wood trash and chips on the floor.

View attachment 446537
Click to expand...
Reply
Save
Like
DrRobert
Trust me on this, you don’t want to build a tabke and later find out you don’t like it. I‘m there now. Ply vs MDF - either one works, MDF is going to be flatter and cheaper. Consider laminating the top. Seal it well and moisture wint be an issue. BLO/naphtha/poly mixture works well.

You are correct - the main thing is flatness. Part of that is sound structure, b/c a top won’t stay flat on a flexing base. With that in mind, torsion box construction is no doubt THE best way. Mention has been made of multiple layers, but there is really no need nor advantage to multiple layers on an outfeed/assembly table, unless it will be also used as a hand tool ww’ing bench where thickness is a factor for mallet work. The issue is you can never assume ply or MDF is perfectly flat, in fact it rarely ever is. So you will never get a flat top without starting with a flat surface to build on. This goes to the base structure. Wood Whisperer has a good video on building a torsion box, starting with nothing but saw horses.

Having gone the T track route, I will discourage you from doing that, mainly b/c they are a collector of screws, nails, drill bits, pencils, let’s not even talk about glue. 😆😆. There are limited number of clamps that will work. If you want to use trackmsaw clamps, regular T track will not work you have to get the gold Incra tracks.

If a track saw is in your future, or even if it’s not, take look into MFT set ups. This opens up all kinds of possibilities such as parf dogs for alignment, track saw use, post clamps, inserted clamps like used for saw tracks, and more I can’t think of now. The sides have to be open in order to retrieve things that fall thru the holes 😉. There is the infamous Paula bench, also Mike Farrington has good stuff. Peter Millard has lots of info on the use of MFT in a “tablesaw-less” shop. Check Dave Stanton also.

When I redo my assembly table, it will be MFT and also a front vise and dead man set up on one side for clamping boards on edge.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
D
I am not familiar with the MFT or torsion boxes but I will look it up. The T-Track thought is mainly for being able to clamp or hold stuff, plus honestly I’ve always wanted one lol.
I already have a track saw and that is my plan to break down sheet goods. I want to use whatever I build for assembly, track saw sheet breakdown, and as an outfeed for the table saw.
Reply
Save
Like
BigCountry79
T track looks like it solves all your problems, but it actually doesn't solve any of them.
Reply
Save
Like
D
I did a quick look at MFT last night but will look in more detail today. At first look, it looks pretty cool but it does look like adding more work with all the drilling and particularly doing it straight and symmetrical. Since the holes go all the way thru, that makes me feel like using (2) 3/4" sheets may be too deep. I also wonder about how the holes will impact the use of the table. For example, saw dust or mess falling thru the holes, or really thing falling thru like screws or what not. Is the idea that the whole table top would have the holes?

I will look at more of those examples today. I have see those before but didn't know the name/acronym. Definitely looks pretty cool.

The whole T-Track idea was just an idea because I see a lot of it and it also looks nice and convenient when you need it. Having a flat surface do anything with a sheet or a flat surface to do any kind of work is my #1 need/goal. I'm not locked in on it but I feel like if I am going to this level of effort and expense, I should go ahead and put something on there to help with clamping, holding, or whatever else that comes along.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
Rebelwork
Nothing wrong with T Track.Most that don’t like it haven’t found use for it yet..
Reply
Save
Like
D
The dialog here is the reason this kind of place is helpful. The experience and perspectives of everyone is what makes this valuable. Always able to learn something or think about something I had not considered or known about before.
Reply
Save
Like
BigCountry79
I probably have $200 in t track and accessories. I've literally never used the clamps.

Leaving room to clamp along the edge is extremely helpful. Having a few dog holes and holdfast to hold in the middle is useful and quick.

I dont know many people who really use it. Ttrack definitely LOOKS useful, but I think it's all marketing hype...YMMV
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Rebelwork
BigCountry79 said:
I probably have $200 in t track and accessories. I've literally never used the clamps.

Leaving room to clamp along the edge is extremely helpful. Having a few dog holes and holdfast to hold in the middle is useful and quick.

I dont know many people who really use it. Ttrack definitely LOOKS useful, but I think it's all marketing hype...YMMV
Click to expand...
that’s going to be up to each woodworker what and how they will use there shop.

I’ve considered them for my bench, but it’s never clean enough.
Reply
Save
Like
Rebelwork
One reason I like the woodworking shows. Miter track..
Reply
Save
Like
DrRobert
djtech2k said:
I did a quick look at MFT last night but will look in more detail today. At first look, it looks pretty cool but it does look like adding more work with all the drilling and particularly doing it straight and symmetrical. Since the holes go all the way thru, that makes me feel like using (2) 3/4" sheets may be too deep. I also wonder about how the holes will impact the use of the table. For example, saw dust or mess falling thru the holes, or really thing falling thru like screws or what not. Is the idea that the whole table top would have the holes?

I will look at more of those examples today. I have see those before but didn't know the name/acronym. Definitely looks pretty cool.

The whole T-Track idea was just an idea because I see a lot of it and it also looks nice and convenient when you need it. Having a flat surface do anything with a sheet or a flat surface to do any kind of work is my #1 need/goal. I'm not locked in on it but I feel like if I am going to this level of effort and expense, I should go ahead and put something on there to help with clamping, holding, or whatever else that comes along.
Click to expand...
An MFT does need access underneath, so a torsion is not going to work well, that said, I’ve seen people do it, so I’m not sure how big an issue stuff falling through the holes. Laying out and drilling the holes is a “thing”. There are a few posts here on this. Various jigs from expensive to virtually nothing, but you need very precisely drill holes for it to work right.

You can’t use 2 sheets, as the clamps won’t work.
Reply
Save
Like
D
So what are the alternatives to t track or MFT? I really like the looks of MFT but I don’t think I want to built my whole table top as that. I just don’t intend to build access underneath.

So other than t-track, is there a good alternative?
Reply
Save
Like
BigCountry79
Honestly, a flat work surface with a good edge, and a couple quick action and deep reach clamps is a REALLY good start.

Having some sort of stop is nice for many things. Bench hooks work. Dog holes also work. A well positioned speed square actually makes a great stop too...

It is also occasionally handy to be able to clamp the back side of a work piece (usually for routing.) Dog holes with a holdfast or a thin clamp (like a matchfit clamp or a track saw clamp) can serve this purpose. Some people like adding a slot to the bench top (aka a split top..I don't recommend them, but I get it). I sometimes just set the work on some 2x4s, which lets me clamp any jig directly to the piece. One well placed clamp can sandwich the piece and the 2x4 to the bench.

I personally really like simple dog holes. You can use hold fasts, dogs, wunderdogs, or thin clamps. If you go above 2" thick for your top, you probably can't use the clamps. Below 1" and the hold fasts are marginal.

I do admit user preference plays a big part in this choice, but if you learn some tricks, clamps are faster and more secure than t track. There may be tricks to t track as well, I just haven't used any. I do find t track has a place for flip stops on my miter saw.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
D
I’ve been tied up and just starting to look at this again. I have not made a final decision yet but here is where I am leaning. I would build an outfeed table that would also function as my assembly/work area. I would add wheels and leveling legs. The top would be 1 or 2 layers of 3/4” hardwood plywood with a shelf underneath for storage. The dimensions would be something like 3’x5’. Then I could either setup my table saw on its existing stand next to it or build another piece to hold the table saw that would roll up next to the outfeed table. This would give me about 3’x7’ total top space for breaking down sheet goods in case 3’x5’ is too small. The point of it being 2 different pieces is only to save space when I’m not using it.

I’m not exactly sure about the 2 piece part or the sizes. Frankly, I’m not sure about any of it but that’s the best I could come up with for now. I’d like to have it be the bigger size but I know my space is so limited.
Reply
Save
Like
Tony B
My table saw is pretty much stationary. My Assembly/Outfeed table is around 2 1/2 ' X 5' on retractable wheels. The table saw is Approx. 1/4 to 1/2" higher than the Assy/Outfeed table with the wheels up resting on the adjustable feet (non-rolling position). This allows for the boards to drop off the table saw and onto the Assy table. If working on the Assy Table to cut a relatively long piece with my circular saw, I leave the retractable down (rolling position) on the table saw end and the other end of the Assy/Outfeed Table the wheels are retracted which lowers that end and effectively raises table saw end while providing restricted movement of the table. This will allow the cutting end of the really long board to be slightly higher than the table saw top and allow the cut piece to drop onto the table saw.
I think I worded it right.
Reply
Save
Like
woodnthings
DrRobert said:
You are correct - the main thing is flatness. Part of that is sound structure, b/c a top won’t stay flat on a flexing base. With that in mind, torsion box construction is no doubt THE best way. Mention has been made of multiple layers, but there is really no need nor advantage to multiple layers on an outfeed/assembly table, unless it will be also used as a hand tool ww’ing bench where thickness is a factor for mallet work. The issue is you can never assume ply or MDF is perfectly flat, in fact it rarely ever is. So you will never get a flat top without starting with a flat surface to build on. This goes to the base structure. Wood Whisperer has a good video on building a torsion box, starting with nothing but saw horses.
Click to expand...
That's what I did on my outfeed/assembly table as shown in this thread:
www.woodworkingtalk.com

Torsion box lattice sizing

I am building a couple of outfeed/assembly tables, and plan to build a workbench as well. I plan to use torsion boxes for the work surfaces. However, I can't find a lot of information on sizing the webbing. For example, I have a 30"x60" top, 1/2" Baltic birch skins. I will likely use poplar...
www.woodworkingtalk.com www.woodworkingtalk.com

Wood Table Engineering Flooring Machine



I used 10 ft long by 30" wide by 3/4" thick particle board for counter tops on both sides and then laid on another 10 ft piece as a sacrificial top which I can flip over when it gets too abused.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
Tony B
Im have always made the inside of a torsion completely webbed and the cross pieces would also be dado'd in place. I would also stagger the cross pieces. I have made many of them out of MDF and would also Dado the slots for the webbing pieces on the MDF on the underside. Just being anal I guess. My current shop size wont allow for a large assembly table, wish it did. I also used Formica to laminate the toip and a backing sheet for the bottom. The formica allowed to me write with either pencil or marker so sometimes I drew my work to scale on the formica. and used it as a pattern. Also glue would come off easily.
Believe it or not, all of the webbing pieces were also MDF.
Reply
Save
Like
Rebelwork
O
Few problems with laminate… Hard to drill. Likes to pucker up. Gets chipped. Once chipped it just gets worse. I’m use to it in high volume shops. Maybe not so bad in a personal shop if taken care of..
Reply
Save
Like
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
Woodworking Talk
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Woodworking Discussion Power Tools & Machinery Project Showcase Wood Finishing Woodturning
Top