They come in 4x8 sheets.
Advice on Assembly/Outfeed Table and Workshop Design
I am very novice and like to do woodworking as a hobby when I can. I work out of my garage, which is quite a mess at the moment so its hard to work with anything that's not very small. Breaking down sheet goods with straight cuts is also one of my pain points. I currently have a miter saw on a rolling stand, table saw on rolling stand, a tracksaw, and just ordered a benchtop planer.
I want to organize my garage so that it not only functions better but so that I have a work area that is useful. I currently have a couple of the Worx Pegasus tables and they are nice but I realized they are not flat and still not big enough to breakdown sheet goods. Currently, when I need to breakdown sheet goods I have to do it outside in my driveway with the Worx tables, saw horses, and some rolling stands.
My thought is that I would like to build a multi-function assembly table that can also work as an outfeed table for my table saw. My table saw (DWE7491RS) is on the Dewalt stand that folds up and that's great but when I have to set it up inside, the legs spread far apart and take up quite a bit of space. So I was thinking about maybe incorporating at least the tablesaw into the assembly table OR making a cart for it that could roll right next to the assembly table and essentially extend the table with the surface of the table saw. My miter saw is also on a folding/rolling stand and I would consider incorporating it too, but I am not sold on that either way because it may be nice but it would also make the build more complex.
I have found a few examples or ideas and I am back and forth on these things, and have even thought about combining some of the ideas. My main goals are to try to save space, be portable, add storage below the table surface, provide a flat space for build/assembly of projects, and help be better breakdown sheet goods. I would like to have something like T-Track or some way of clamping stuff too, but that's a nice to have and not on the critical list.
So I am looking for some advice. For example, what has worked well for you? How large of a surface is needed to break down sheet goods (eg 4x8 is obvious size but can it be smaller?). Does it make sense to incorporate the tools like table saw or miter saw or is it better to leave them on their existing stands? Like I said, my most recent thought was to build a rolling table at something like ~3'-4' wide and ~6' long and then build a cart just for the table saw that would roll right up to the table so essentially making a ~8' table and using it as outfeed at the same time. Any thoughts/ideas?
Here are some examples/ideas I have found.
Mobile Miter / Table Saw Workbench Plans Instant PDF - Etsy
Just finished this miter & table saw combo mobile workbench : Workbenches (reddit.com)
DIY Building Plans for Mobile Workbench: Miter Saw Stand, Table Saw Stand and Worktable – Come Stay Awhile by Amanda Vernaci | Modern Farmhouse DIY + Home Renovation
I want to organize my garage so that it not only functions better but so that I have a work area that is useful. I currently have a couple of the Worx Pegasus tables and they are nice but I realized they are not flat and still not big enough to breakdown sheet goods. Currently, when I need to breakdown sheet goods I have to do it outside in my driveway with the Worx tables, saw horses, and some rolling stands.
My thought is that I would like to build a multi-function assembly table that can also work as an outfeed table for my table saw. My table saw (DWE7491RS) is on the Dewalt stand that folds up and that's great but when I have to set it up inside, the legs spread far apart and take up quite a bit of space. So I was thinking about maybe incorporating at least the tablesaw into the assembly table OR making a cart for it that could roll right next to the assembly table and essentially extend the table with the surface of the table saw. My miter saw is also on a folding/rolling stand and I would consider incorporating it too, but I am not sold on that either way because it may be nice but it would also make the build more complex.
I have found a few examples or ideas and I am back and forth on these things, and have even thought about combining some of the ideas. My main goals are to try to save space, be portable, add storage below the table surface, provide a flat space for build/assembly of projects, and help be better breakdown sheet goods. I would like to have something like T-Track or some way of clamping stuff too, but that's a nice to have and not on the critical list.
So I am looking for some advice. For example, what has worked well for you? How large of a surface is needed to break down sheet goods (eg 4x8 is obvious size but can it be smaller?). Does it make sense to incorporate the tools like table saw or miter saw or is it better to leave them on their existing stands? Like I said, my most recent thought was to build a rolling table at something like ~3'-4' wide and ~6' long and then build a cart just for the table saw that would roll right up to the table so essentially making a ~8' table and using it as outfeed at the same time. Any thoughts/ideas?
Here are some examples/ideas I have found.
Mobile Miter / Table Saw Workbench Plans Instant PDF - Etsy
Just finished this miter & table saw combo mobile workbench : Workbenches (reddit.com)
DIY Building Plans for Mobile Workbench: Miter Saw Stand, Table Saw Stand and Worktable – Come Stay Awhile by Amanda Vernaci | Modern Farmhouse DIY + Home Renovation
21 - 40 of 86 Posts
I have often thought about using the rigid sheets for cutting platform but then I have to store it somewhere. I thought about ripping it into 2 x 2x8 pieces in attempt to make storage easier. I would prefer to be able to go without it but its an option. I was hoping to be able to use something like bench cookies to prop up the sheet for cutting, but that is where my concern for the top dimensions comes in. If I used bench cookies then I am not 100% sure how much overhang is ok when breaking down a sheet so that pieces wouldn't be falling off or whatever.
At this point, I am thinking width needs to be at least 3' wide. The length I am still unsure about. If I do integrate the table saw then that will add about 2' to whatever table/bench length I go with. So a 6' table/bench added to the ~2' for the table saw portion would make ~8' as a total surface with 6' as outfeed. Still playing around with these dimensions to maximize usability and taking minimal footprint.
At this point, I am thinking width needs to be at least 3' wide. The length I am still unsure about. If I do integrate the table saw then that will add about 2' to whatever table/bench length I go with. So a 6' table/bench added to the ~2' for the table saw portion would make ~8' as a total surface with 6' as outfeed. Still playing around with these dimensions to maximize usability and taking minimal footprint.
The retractable wheels do no have locks because when the wheels are retracted (flipped upward against the leg), the legs sit directly on the floor. My shop is an old rental facility with dips in the concrete floor and the tables hardly ever sit flat on 4 legs. Under the bottom part of each leg i put adjustable/leveling feet so the table /bench rests solidly on the floor.Thanks for the note on the wheels. So your wheels are retractable and have locks? Do you remember which you used? They sound good. Do you only use your table saw to breakdown sheets or do you also use a track saw? Just trying to gauge if your size tables work for a whole sheet when using a tracksaw.
Are you guys using 3/4" ply for the top or is anyone using MDF or something else?
Another thing that just occurred to me is if I do integrate the table saw, I am thinking I may need to cut slots into the top by the table saw so sleds can be used. Never thought about that until now. Or maybe I am missing something.
Iuse my table saw as much as possible to breakdown sheets of ply. However, my table saw fence wont cut wider than 36". So I roll my assembly/outfeed table to within a foot or so of my table saw. Then I span the plywood across the table saw and outfeed/assembly table. Then I have made simple straight line rip jigs and clamp it to the assembly table where I want to make my cut in the gap between table saw and assy table and the cut-off piece will remain on top of table saw without falling to floor.
I buy my retractable wheels from Amazon.
Since I went to 3" Dia. wheels, I like them a lot better even though they cost about $15 more for a set of 4. However, because of my uneven floors, the retractable wheels with the added adjustable feet are better for heavy work like a full sheet of ply or MDF. I put the 3" Dia. wheels on things like my lathe and router table. These are free standing tools and can be wheeled anywhere and sometimes to find a level spot I only need to move them a bout a foot or so whereas my outfeed/assy table needs to be in one particular area when used as outfeed table and the combination of the retractable wheels and leveling feet works great for me.
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Thanks. I really like that approach of having the retractable wheels with leveling feet underneath. With the design I am thinking about the issue I would have to watch for is the height. So in other words, I would essentially have 2 "tables" with the wheels and feet on them, that would need to align to the exact same height so wood can slide flat across the top of both. This is of course unless I make it all in 1 piece.
I make all my tables based on my table saw height. Since I use my Assy Table to hold the bulk of the piece, the off-cuts fall on the table saw. My work bench is to the side of my table saw for really long pieces so since my cuts are on the table saw, I want my bench to be 1/4" lower than my table saw. When I use my assembly table to lay the plywood on, I leave the the Assy table wheels up and the adjustable feet are set so the assy table is 1/4" higher than my table saw so the off cuts are made with a circular saw and the off-cuts fall on top of the table saw.
Most often, boards and plywood are not exactly flat. So if the board had just a slight downward curveiture it will slide over the table saw top rather than bump into it.
If you can make your outfeed table 30" X 60" (2 1/2' X 5') it would be a good size. That would give your plywood an overhang of 9" on each side of the short sides and 18" on each end of the long sides. The Ply will remain flat.
Longer or shorter Assy Table would be your own preference depending on your work habits.
Most often, boards and plywood are not exactly flat. So if the board had just a slight downward curveiture it will slide over the table saw top rather than bump into it.
If you can make your outfeed table 30" X 60" (2 1/2' X 5') it would be a good size. That would give your plywood an overhang of 9" on each side of the short sides and 18" on each end of the long sides. The Ply will remain flat.
Longer or shorter Assy Table would be your own preference depending on your work habits.
Thanks. At 30"x60", will that be big enough to breakdown a sheet with a track saw? I'm trying to think through how much will be hanging over and will it fall off when the cut is made or whatever else. Like I said, I'd prefer to use bench cookies or something underneath the sheet but I could consider using the rigid insulation sheet if I can find a way to store it. Its just another thing to deal with that I'd like to avoid if I can.
So I was thinking of something like this but maybe instead of 1 whole piece, I would make it into 2 separate pieces and a smaller size.
![Table Wood Gas Hardwood Machine]()
So I was thinking of something like this but maybe instead of 1 whole piece, I would make it into 2 separate pieces and a smaller size.
I think you are misunderstanding. Your sketch shows your table saw and the outfeed as one unit. My outfeed/assy table is separate from the table saw.
I was describing how the Assy Table would be about a foot away from the table saw and the cut would be between the TS and the Assy table. The off cut piece would land on the Table saw and the main part of the sheet would remain on the Assy Table. The retractaable wheels only need to be on the Assy Table unless you also wanted it on the table saw for mobility in yior shop.
I was describing how the Assy Table would be about a foot away from the table saw and the cut would be between the TS and the Assy table. The off cut piece would land on the Table saw and the main part of the sheet would remain on the Assy Table. The retractaable wheels only need to be on the Assy Table unless you also wanted it on the table saw for mobility in yior shop.
I understand that there would be 2 separate surfaces. That's what I was trying to describe. Basically the table saw would sit on a "cart" of sorts and then a separate "table". I was using the image to show that what I was thinking was similar to the design in the pic but instead of 1 large object, it would be 2 separate/smaller objects.
Now I am not 100% clear on how you describe the cutting scenario. Are you saying the assembly table would sit beside the table saw "cart" with a 4'x8' sheet spanning those 2 things, with a saw cutting down the middle between the table and table saw car? If so, is that assuming you have the rigid foam sheet underneath? Otherwise I was thinking that a full sheet would sag or fall off since the table saw car wouldn't be anywhere near 8' long to support the sheet.
I could be misunderstanding that though.
Now I am not 100% clear on how you describe the cutting scenario. Are you saying the assembly table would sit beside the table saw "cart" with a 4'x8' sheet spanning those 2 things, with a saw cutting down the middle between the table and table saw car? If so, is that assuming you have the rigid foam sheet underneath? Otherwise I was thinking that a full sheet would sag or fall off since the table saw car wouldn't be anywhere near 8' long to support the sheet.
I could be misunderstanding that though.
To across the 48" direction, the cut would be between the table saw and the assy table. Since the cart would be longer, the cut off smaller piece would drop on the table saw.
If you were cutting parallel to the long side, then the entire ply would rest on the Assy Table and you could put a foam board under it or a few 2X4's or whatever you have to raise the ply so you dont cut into the Table top..
As I said earlier, I don't know how much room u have to spare. If you do have the room, I would make the Assy table 6' long.
If you were cutting parallel to the long side, then the entire ply would rest on the Assy Table and you could put a foam board under it or a few 2X4's or whatever you have to raise the ply so you dont cut into the Table top..
As I said earlier, I don't know how much room u have to spare. If you do have the room, I would make the Assy table 6' long.
If you have the storage space you can make 2 folding saw horses the same exact height as your Assy Table and then you wont need to use the tabel saw.
Yes cutting the sheets down is a good idea. I never did that but should have. I would do [email protected] 4x4I have often thought about using the rigid sheets for cutting platform but then I have to store it somewhere. I thought about ripping it into 2 x 2x8 pieces in attempt to make storage easier. I would prefer to be able to go without it but its an option. I was hoping to be able to use something like bench cookies to prop up the sheet for cutting, but that is where my concern for the top dimensions comes in. If I used bench cookies then I am not 100% sure how much overhang is ok when breaking down a sheet so that pieces wouldn't be falling off or whatever.
At this point, I am thinking width needs to be at least 3' wide. The length I am still unsure about. If I do integrate the table saw then that will add about 2' to whatever table/bench length I go with. So a 6' table/bench added to the ~2' for the table saw portion would make ~8' as a total surface with 6' as outfeed. Still playing around with these dimensions to maximize usability and taking minimal footprint.
THE only reason I bought a track saw was I couldn’t wrestle sheets anymore b/c of my back. Plus long rips on table saw takes some technique, and unless you have a rock solid fence, you’re going to get some flex and an inaccurate cut. That’s where I question the compact saws, but maybe the DW locks up good.
I don’t think you need 6’. Mine is 48”. All you need is aboru 5’ past blade (including saw) to keep 8’ from tipping.
Where you’re going to have an issue is width, am I right? What is the maximum extension of the fence? Another example: Let’s say you’ve ripped a book case to 12” now you need to make them 84” high. How are you going to cross it them? Table saw maybe a big sled and clamp the boards? Maybe a miter saw? Sure, but I suggest this is another place a track saw prevails. Gang them up and cut together. 😁
My fence will extend on either side and the max is to the right at 36". I don't think I would ever have the need to crosscut a super long piece like that. I would use my miter saw instead. Up until this point, I have only used the tracksaw to break down sheet goods and that would probably remain the case unless my workflow changed when I get some kind of solution built from this.Yes cutting the sheets down is a good idea. I never did that but should have. I would do [email protected] 4x4
THE only reason I bought a track saw was I couldn’t wrestle sheets anymore b/c of my back. Plus long rips on table saw takes some technique, and unless you have a rock solid fence, you’re going to get some flex and an inaccurate cut. That’s where I question the compact saws, but maybe the DW locks up good.
I don’t think you need 6’. Mine is 48”. All you need is about 5’ past blade (including saw) to keep 8’ from tipping.
Where you’re going to have an issue is width, am I right? What is the maximum extension of the fence? Another example: Let’s say you’ve ripped a book case to 12” now you need to make them 84” high. How are you going to cross it them? Table saw maybe a big sled and clamp the boards? Maybe a miter saw? Sure, but I suggest this is another place a track saw prevails. Gang them up and cut together. 😁
I am still debating on all the details but I am leaning towards a table that is ~3' x ~5'-6' with storage underneath and then a "cart" that is the same height with my table saw in it. That way when I need a big surface for assembly or using the tracksaw to cut sheet goods, together the tables will be 3' wide and a total of ~7'-8' long. It would work as an outfeed for the table saw that would be ~5'-6' long. What I am thinking is that the pieces being separate could give me more flexibility for how much space it takes up. I mean I know it won't get smaller but I would arrange the 2 pieces so that its not taking up ~7'-8' when I don't need it. I plan to have caster wheels and probably leveling feet as well so its easy to move and level out. Now I am not sure if having them separate is that much value or if its worth having to customize the plans that I posted as an example but its my current thought. I'm afraid if I go any smaller, it will make breaking down a sheet more difficult, unless I go buy the rigid insulation sheet, which again I am only hesitant to do because of storing the sheet.
@djtech2k
I dont use foam, I just lay the ply across the Assy Table and the table saw with a gap of around a foot or so. I make the cut in the 'gap' area (WITH A CIRCULAR SAW) so the blade protruding between the table saw top and the Assy Table is around 1 foot wide and 3' above the floor. The cut off piece lands/remains on top of the table saw and the longer section of the plywood remains on top of the Assy table.
The Assy table is on wheels, That means you can stick it outward from the table saw and have plenty of the plywood resting on top of the table saw and assembly table.
Depending on which direction you want to cut the plywood, either the long way or the short direction, depends on how you place the Assy table - either perpendicular to the table saw or parallel to it, that is, 'along side' of it on the outfeed side/rear of the saw.
If for some reason you dont want to lay the plywood directly on the table saw and Assy Table, you can use scrap 2x4's or whatever to the raise the plywood so as not to make direct contact with the table saw top or the Assy Table top.
My Assy Table also has a lower shelf where I keep some of my portable tools like a chain saw, belt sander, and other bulky tools and some scrap wood to put under surfaces that I dont want to come in contact with the Assy table top.
Also, at the far end of my assembly table I have a pipe running across the rear legs under the top. The pipe supports a 30" wide roll of white butcher paper. I pull the butcher paper across the whole top of the assy table and tape it down with packaging tape. It serves 2 purposes: 1) keeps my table top clean from glue, stain and other finishing stuff. 2) While I am working on a project, I write critical notes on the paper with a marker. For instance: Dont forget to make mortices BEFORE I cut the curves. And other 'all sorts' of reminders.
When I am done with that phase of the project, I just peel off the butcher paper, throw it away and re-cover with another piece of paper. When I find the time, I will laminate the top with white Formica. I can clean Formica faster than I can re-paper the top.
I dont use foam, I just lay the ply across the Assy Table and the table saw with a gap of around a foot or so. I make the cut in the 'gap' area (WITH A CIRCULAR SAW) so the blade protruding between the table saw top and the Assy Table is around 1 foot wide and 3' above the floor. The cut off piece lands/remains on top of the table saw and the longer section of the plywood remains on top of the Assy table.
The Assy table is on wheels, That means you can stick it outward from the table saw and have plenty of the plywood resting on top of the table saw and assembly table.
Depending on which direction you want to cut the plywood, either the long way or the short direction, depends on how you place the Assy table - either perpendicular to the table saw or parallel to it, that is, 'along side' of it on the outfeed side/rear of the saw.
If for some reason you dont want to lay the plywood directly on the table saw and Assy Table, you can use scrap 2x4's or whatever to the raise the plywood so as not to make direct contact with the table saw top or the Assy Table top.
My Assy Table also has a lower shelf where I keep some of my portable tools like a chain saw, belt sander, and other bulky tools and some scrap wood to put under surfaces that I dont want to come in contact with the Assy table top.
Also, at the far end of my assembly table I have a pipe running across the rear legs under the top. The pipe supports a 30" wide roll of white butcher paper. I pull the butcher paper across the whole top of the assy table and tape it down with packaging tape. It serves 2 purposes: 1) keeps my table top clean from glue, stain and other finishing stuff. 2) While I am working on a project, I write critical notes on the paper with a marker. For instance: Dont forget to make mortices BEFORE I cut the curves. And other 'all sorts' of reminders.
When I am done with that phase of the project, I just peel off the butcher paper, throw it away and re-cover with another piece of paper. When I find the time, I will laminate the top with white Formica. I can clean Formica faster than I can re-paper the top.
Thanks. How thick do you guys make your tops? I was thinking 3/4" ply but I see a lot of plans/videos of people using double 3/4" sheets for a 1 1/2" surface.
I see a couple designs/plans that I like but they are all one solid piece and as I said, I am considering making mine into 2. So I would definitely have to customize.
I see a couple designs/plans that I like but they are all one solid piece and as I said, I am considering making mine into 2. So I would definitely have to customize.
I normally use 2 layers of 3/4" ply on my work benches and outfeed tables. If properly assembled and glued, they will be very strong and very flat.
Some people use MDF instead of plywood because it is inherently flat. and is less expensive than ply. I have in the distant past and coveren the top and sides with Formica and the bottom with a backing sheet.
.
Some people use MDF instead of plywood because it is inherently flat. and is less expensive than ply. I have in the distant past and coveren the top and sides with Formica and the bottom with a backing sheet.
.
Yeah I've been thinking about it. I think 3/4" will be plenty strong for my use and at ~$100/sheet for hardwood plywood I really like 1 sheet lol. But again I don't want to have to do this twice so I'll think about doubling it. I do plan to put in some T-Track because I have always wanted a flat surface with T-Track. So if I did double the top and then put a shelf on the bottom, I will probably need 3 sheets, so $300+ just for plywood. SMH. Shouldn't be this expensive for a work bench lol.
I would take double up mdf over one sheet of plywood any day. Add some polyurethane to the mdf and it becomes incredibly tough.Yeah I've been thinking about it. I think 3/4" will be plenty strong for my use and at ~$100/sheet for hardwood plywood I really like 1 sheet lol. But again I don't want to have to do this twice so I'll think about doubling it. I do plan to put in some T-Track because I have always wanted a flat surface with T-Track. So if I did double the top and then put a shelf on the bottom, I will probably need 3 sheets, so $300+ just for plywood. SMH. Shouldn't be this expensive for a work bench lol.
Particle board would be much more rigid than MDF and cheaper. That being said I would still use plywood..I would take double up mdf over one sheet of plywood any day. Add some polyurethane to the mdf and it becomes incredibly tough.
My plan is to use plywood. I worry about the humidity in the summer, any liquids that might spill, and if I ever have to screw anything into the surface, like the T-Track/etc. I am undecided on 1 sheet or 2, but as of now I think plywood is my top choice.
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