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bzguy
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With or without the anti-kickback, best made skill saw guide I've seen yet.
This would be handy for guys like me who work in the bush.
I have to cut panels accurately in places hard to lug a table saw.
You might want to ad instructions to make a scoring pass cross-grain for no tear-out in cabinetry panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With or without the anti-kickback, best made skill saw guide I've seen yet.
This would be handy for guys like me who work in the bush.
I have to cut panels accurately in places hard to lug a table saw.
You might want to ad instructions to make a scoring pass cross-grain for no tear-out in cabinetry panels.
Thanks.
I have another video with a new designed Antisplintering insert.
I use an old $5.00 factory blade in this video.
The "pressure applied" insert works very nice.

http://youtu.be/9LYf3V1O7J4

The anti-kickback works better as a secondary guide.
At the end if the second flat cut you can see the panel shifting
but the entire UEG shifts with the panel.
The Fin traps the cut-off piece and don't allow any mishaps.
I don't tried to create one. I noticed the shifting after the video.

Thanks
dino
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I hope it works better than the one Kreg sells. I still have one of those collecting dust on the shelf.
long story...the Rip-cut is less than half of the UEG?
and without the Fin or antisplintering insert.

the UEG Works even with narrow strips of wood.
here are some examples of jobs done by the ez users.

http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=3104

thanks
d
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You might want to ad instructions to make a scoring pass cross-grain for no tear-out in cabinetry panels.
For cross cutting cab. parts...what is the ultimate capacity?
I'm thinking to make it smaller but with an optional extension.
Let's say 20" with the standard and 36"?-40"? for the extension.

Or we better stay with a cross cut system?
Like a tracksaw 54" with a build in square and a simple flip stop
to eliminate the expense of the repeaters?
again, we have to find the right capacity.

The simple UEG with a simple cross cutter is all
that we need for cab-parts

tx again.
d
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice idea. I just clamp a board to what I'm cutting but this would certainly be cleaner/easier.
Frank, as long as you get the job done...

the major problem with panels is the size and weight.
One bad lift and I end-up spending weeks
with my "pimp" :blink:...chiropractor.
we cut 3/4" HDPE panels.
we need 3-4 guys to lift the panel and this is how it started.
The first vertical cut was a disaster...few more years and few more disasters...life is better now without my chiropractor. :smile:

thanks
d
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Where can we buy it?
amazon-ebay and our website...for now.
search eurekazone.

tx

I hope I don't get banned from providing a link and a special to the forum.
$70 with free shipping. save another $20.00?
http://www.eurekazone.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=UEG

the way it works...place your order and make a note.
WT forum special.
we will refund the difference same or next day the latest.
A big thanks for providing your thoughts and feedback.
We need it.

thanks guys.

ycf dino
 

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bzguy
Joined
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581 Posts
For cross cutting cab. parts...what is the ultimate capacity?
I'm thinking to make it smaller but with an optional extension.
Let's say 20" with the standard and 36"?-40"? for the extension.

Or we better stay with a cross cut system?
Like a tracksaw 54" with a build in square and a simple flip stop
to eliminate the expense of the repeaters?
again, we have to find the right capacity.

The simple UEG with a simple cross cutter is all
that we need for cab-parts

tx again.
d
All i meant was show people to make one pass with blade lowered only 1/16" cross-grain, then second pass full cut.
This "scores" a grove in the veneer so it doesn't splinter "up and out" in front of the blade, as skill-saws are prone to doing.
This way you can lay out and cut your parts with the "good" side up for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
All i meant was show people to make one pass with blade lowered only 1/16" cross-grain, then second pass full cut.
This "scores" a grove in the veneer so it doesn't splinter "up and out" in front of the blade, as skill-saws are prone to doing.
This way you can lay out and cut your parts with the "good" side up for reference.
That is a good idea.you mention cross cutting and
I was thinking more...

The UEG has an antisplintering insert that eliminates the scoring step.
You trim it once and you have a custom Pressure-Apply ZCI.


Look at the video that shows the insert.
http://youtu.be/9LYf3V1O7J4

thanks
d
 
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