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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't post many of my projects here. Most of my stuff is utilitarian for the lack of a better term and kinda boring. I do repair work and refinishing. Or small custom woodworking, but I feel weird about showing "other peoples stuff" that I have built them. Don't know why but I do, I even took a bunch of pictures off my website because of that reason.

Every once in awhile I get to build something I want to. I was digging through a pile I had stacked up against the wall of the barn yesterday and came across this honeylocust crotch that I stuck back "just in case I ever found a use for it". It struck me, hey I could make a table out of that.

I used a little walnut too. I make the stretcher out of walnut so when you look down though the crack you see black, looks more dramatic I think. I also thought since the butterflies in the top were walnut the stretcher should be shaped like a butterfly too.
Simple lap joint legs, off set just for fun.

I also don't post many pictures because I am not a "straight grain/everything square" kinda guy. The stuff I like to build does not suit most peoples tastes.

The base was simply doweled (6 dowels, 2 in each leg) and glued to the top after the pictures. Then a few coats of Tung oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One more shot of the top. For anyone who has not cut and fit butterflies, give it a try its fun :laughing:.
 

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Interesting....it is interesting. Can you imagine say a hundred years from now, one of the descendants of the Keno Brothers on The Antiques Road Show will be discussing the artistry and craftsmanship of the piece, and how eccentric the craftsman was who built it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
eccentric the craftsman was who built it?
You can say that again brother (and thanks I like "eccentric" better than nuts :w00t:). Some of you glossy woodworking mag guys know I just swiped the idea anyway. Who is the first guy who can tell me the name of the artist that if he made the same table it would be worth $10K+ ? Instead of about $10 :huh: :laughing:

This table sold for $822,400 at Sotheby's in December of 2006, same dude. I don't read those magazines, any of them. But I have seen the guys work other places and it makes me want to build weird things.
 

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Daren, that table's so cool I can't stand it...very nice

A great example of how even free-form pieces have to have their own degree of symmetry and balance.
 

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Super looking table Daren. :thumbsup:
 

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I just did my first butterfly joint. I cut it all by hand and its a little funky, but it works. I had an oak stair tread that I was using to cover the back of my toilet (the original broke). The tread split and I thought it would be perfect to experiment on. My next project was to put a butterfly into a walnut slab for a table top. The check was splitting so much, that I ended up putting a clamp on it as it dried. Well, the slab dried and the split stopped but the tension of the clamp caused the board to slightly warp at one end. The slab is 44" x 20" x 2". Is there a way to get the warp out? Can I moisten it and clamp it the other way? Maybe use steel tension rods? Am I kidding myself? I would put phots up but I can't figure out how to do it. Any suggestions on any of my issues? Awesome table and craftsmanship by the way.
 

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I really like it, a blend of ingenuity, art, creativity and the gift of seeing what that board really wanted to be. Good Job!!:drink:
 

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Walnut warp

Still figuring out this picture management, but at least you can open them and get an idea of what I mean. The walnut slab has a slight warp to it from the knot hole up. While it was still wet, the splits on each end actually went all the way to the marks. After clamping them, as the slab dried, they closed up. I'm thinking of moistening the wood and clamping it the other way, thinking I can forced it back. Will this work? My only other solution is to plane the whole thing. Unfortunately, planing will cause me to lose a good 1/2" from the thickness.

Concerning butterfly joints, is there a general rule about the width and shape of the keys? Is thinner better than wider? Does the key need to be the thickness of the wood and does it actually go all the way through to the other side? I made mine only about 3/4 the thickness of the board.
 

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