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A desktop and a newbie

577 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  B Coll
Greetings all,

I like using hardwood plywood as a desktop surface. They look nice enough and since I'm rough on things I don't have too much worry about ruining something. I've just ripped out some nasty laminate over particle board and have a nice 3/4" Russian birch plywood. I like the look of the visible layers on the edges, so I'm not going to do anything to cover those. I've decided this time I want to stain and finish it. I'm just going to use a watered paint wash for the stain and my head is spinning a little over how to finish it. I know what I'd like to have, but don't know if I can have it all, or the best way to get it.

Here's what I'd like to end up with in order of priority:
  • waterproof (or at least resistant - I'm always spilling my coffee)
  • heatproof (see coffee above)
  • non-yellowing - perfectly clear if possible
  • able to use on and seal up the plywood edges (prevent splinters)
  • see the grain
  • feel like wood, not plastic
  • satin sheen
  • able to take some rough treatment - I'm not expecting it to stay pristine, but I don't want to have to treat it with kid gloves either.

Are there any penetrating oil finishes that don't cause ambering?
Are there any low sheen penetrating oil finishes?
Are there any polyurethanes that are heat and waterproof?
Are there any polyurethanes that don't feel like plastic?

many thanks for letting me pick your brains, and for any knowledge you can send my way!
kmk
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1 - 7 of 7 Posts
There isn't any wood finish that is waterproof, all is water-resistant to some degree but I wouldn't leave water sitting on the top for too long. If you want waterproof you need epoxy resin. Same with heat.
Nothing is perfectly clear. Oil-based finishes tend to have a yellow hue, water-based finishes tend to have a blue hue.
If you send the edges well, splinters shouldn't be a problem with any finish.
If you want to see the grain, don't paint it.
If you want a wood feel, leave it wood.
Most finishes come in different sheens.
Finishes have different resistance to scratches, but all are susceptible if treated rough. Resin epoxy can be very hard.

I wonder if the OP is ever coming back?
There isn't any wood finish that is waterproof, all is water-resistant to some degree but I wouldn't leave water sitting on the top for too long. If you want waterproof you need epoxy resin. Same with heat.
Nothing is perfectly clear. Oil-based finishes tend to have a yellow hue, water-based finishes tend to have a blue hue.
If you send the edges well, splinters shouldn't be a problem with any finish.
If you want to see the grain, don't paint it.
If you want a wood feel, leave it wood.
Most finishes come in different sheens.
Finishes have different resistance to scratches, but all are susceptible if treated rough. Resin epoxy can be very hard.

I wonder if the OP is ever coming back?
Of course I'm coming back! :) You're just the first one to respond. Your response is helpful, I figured I was hoping for the impossible. I think I probably should have gone for a General Finishes product, but I got lazy and just picked up the MinWax water-based, satin polyurethane. The top has a good and thick top layer, so if I don't like it I can always sand it down and try something else.

Many thanks for the tips!
kmk
Of course I'm coming back! :) You're just the first one to respond. Your response is helpful, I figured I was hoping for the impossible. I think I probably should have gone for a General Finishes product, but I got lazy and just picked up the MinWax water-based, satin polyurethane. The top has a good and thick top layer, so if I don't like it I can always sand it down and try something else.

Many thanks for the tips!
kmk
I'm glad your back and that I could help you.
I'm glad your back and that I could help you.
Hey, another question. I'm going to apply wood conditioner before staining. Should I apply that to the edges too?
Thanks!
kmk
Hey, another question. I'm going to apply wood conditioner before staining. Should I apply that to the edges too?
Thanks!
kmk
I don't think it can hurt anything, but I don't think there are going to be any benefits either. The edges will have darker and lighter areas if you stain, no matter the pre-treatment, but from reading your first post I think you want that.
Greetings all,

I like using hardwood plywood as a desktop surface. They look nice enough and since I'm rough on things I don't have too much worry about ruining something. I've just ripped out some nasty laminate over particle board and have a nice 3/4" Russian birch plywood. I like the look of the visible layers on the edges, so I'm not going to do anything to cover those. I've decided this time I want to stain and finish it. I'm just going to use a watered paint wash for the stain and my head is spinning a little over how to finish it. I know what I'd like to have, but don't know if I can have it all, or the best way to get it.

Here's what I'd like to end up with in order of priority:
  • waterproof (or at least resistant - I'm always spilling my coffee)
  • heatproof (see coffee above)
  • non-yellowing - perfectly clear if possible
  • able to use on and seal up the plywood edges (prevent splinters)
  • see the grain
  • feel like wood, not plastic
  • satin sheen
  • able to take some rough treatment - I'm not expecting it to stay pristine, but I don't want to have to treat it with kid gloves either.

Are there any penetrating oil finishes that don't cause ambering?
Are there any low sheen penetrating oil finishes?
Are there any polyurethanes that are heat and waterproof?
Are there any polyurethanes that don't feel like plastic?

many thanks for letting me pick your brains, and for any knowledge you can send my way!
kmk
I would look at Target Coatings EM9300 Urethane. It is water white clear and durable enough to use for interior or exterior applications. I have not used this, but I used it's predecessor EM8000 over white lacquer to increase the durability. Ten years later it is still crystal clear with no signs of yellowing, and I have spilled coffee on it. According to the website it can be sprayed, rolled, or brushed with a foam brush. It also contains UV blockers.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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