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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Actually two questions around the same topic: Squaring the table to the blade...

I recently bought a new bandsaw for the shop. I was squaring the table to the blade as is normal and I noticed that if I placed the square on the right side of the blade as I normally do, and square the table, then move the square to the left side of the table, the table is not square to the table, but slightly off. (this is true vice versa also) Is their a proper side to square from or is there another problem such as improper tension, tracking, etc?

I also noticed that the table is not square to the back of the blade either but there is no adjustment. Do I need shims in the trunions to true this?

I figure that since much of my work uses a fence, I should be squaring the blade to the left side (towards the fence). Am I right?
 

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Put a framing square across the table. It sounds like the top isn't flat. This would account for the top not being square from one side to the other. From front to back it shouldn't matter as much but you could shim it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did that and it is flat throughout... The table is in the same plane from right to left but front to back, it takes a dive from back to front... The front being about 5/8" lower than the back... I've done a series of resaws of various widths from 3/4" to 8" and all are square whether I square from right side or left so I guess that the problem corrects itself while the saw is running...
 

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Wow, 5/8" is a lot. I wonder how it got that way.

As far as squaring the blade, if the top is flat it has to be the blade or a tracking problem. There may not be enough set on the teeth or the guides not tight enough. I think the blade is just pulling off out of square during the cut. I've even had a blade when resawing would follow the grain and veer off in the center of the board. It would almost look like cove molding.
 

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some additional thoughts ....

If the table isn't completely flat, no big deal. If it is square to the side of the blade as close as possible, that's OK too.
If the blade is not square to the table front to back it;s either a trunnion issue or a tracking issue.

Back away all the guides and see where the blade "likes" to track on the wheels. The upper wheel is the only adjustable one... usually. You can track the blade on the wheel so the gullets ride the crown of the tire, that's the best. If that means it's not square front to back then you have to shim the table between the trunnions and the cast bolt holes, also pretty easy to do with a washer.

I like my blades to be square on all sides and front and back for accurate vertical cut for tenons. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
5/8" is a lot... Sorry, I was using a leveling bubble to measure that... seems that may concrete floor has a level problem not the saw... more accurate measurement revealed that the dip to the front is more like 3/16" and Doesn't seem to affect the work, so not worried anymore...

As to the non-square back of the blade... I was measuring from the back of a new blade at the time and when I eventually rounded the back, this took care of that problem for the most part... The front of the blade has always tracked square... Still, it doesn't affect the work itself....

I appreciate the input greatly! Till now, I've been using a small hobby bandsaw and this is my first experience with the "real-deal".
 
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