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6" Delta Planer
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I think you found a Delta Jointer which some people call a planer.
Jointers "flatten"/ straighten one side or edge of a board.
To get consistent thickness you need a true planer with rollers and feed system.
You can get fair results by straightening one side and edge then ripping the other sides on table saw.
Nothing wider than 6" because you will have to cut it slightly thick and run again to remove saw marks.
Even 6" pieces will have to be flipped and ripped twice at maximum height with a 10" table saw.
If this is your first tool, you will need a few more.
How much is good deal?
Jointers "flatten"/ straighten one side or edge of a board.
To get consistent thickness you need a true planer with rollers and feed system.
You can get fair results by straightening one side and edge then ripping the other sides on table saw.
Nothing wider than 6" because you will have to cut it slightly thick and run again to remove saw marks.
Even 6" pieces will have to be flipped and ripped twice at maximum height with a 10" table saw.
If this is your first tool, you will need a few more.
How much is good deal?
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I would bring a straight edge, to check to be sure the tables are flat.
Raise the infeed table above the knives, and put the straight edge on the infeed table, and over the outfeed table, on the front side of the table. Then do the same for the back edge of the table. Check the clearance between the straight edge and outfeed table, in both places. They should be the same or really close.
Check all adjustments to see if they are not seized.
See if belt is in good shape. (could be the cause of vibration or noise)
With machine unplugged, remove the belt, and check for play in the cutterhead. Also turn the cutterhead, and see if it is smooth. Do the same for the motor.
With the fence locked, check for any play.
Run it and see if it is smooth and doesn't make any strange noises.
Good luck with it.
Raise the infeed table above the knives, and put the straight edge on the infeed table, and over the outfeed table, on the front side of the table. Then do the same for the back edge of the table. Check the clearance between the straight edge and outfeed table, in both places. They should be the same or really close.
Check all adjustments to see if they are not seized.
See if belt is in good shape. (could be the cause of vibration or noise)
With machine unplugged, remove the belt, and check for play in the cutterhead. Also turn the cutterhead, and see if it is smooth. Do the same for the motor.
With the fence locked, check for any play.
Run it and see if it is smooth and doesn't make any strange noises.
Good luck with it.
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31,243 Posts
Planers are not jointers, but
You probably have this in mind, a jointer:
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If it's this one, it will have limitations because of the length of the beds/tables:
![]()
The confusion comes from someone in marketing who will forever remain nameless, called them jointer/planers. Eventually some people shortened it to "planers" and that's not what it is, even though it will "plane" off material from the bottom of the board. It's a jointer.
A planer, should really be called a "thickness planer" because that's what it does, makes a previously jointed board which has one flat side... an uniform thickness, removing material off the top of the board.
So, depending on what model you have in making the choice, the longer the tables, the better. A jointer has 2, a thickness planer has 1.
Post a photo if you can, usually older is "better", heavier more weight, cast iron etc. They are a little tricky to set up IF it's out of alignment, but we can help with that. New blades are also a bit tricky to set up/replace, but we can help with that also. :yes:
You probably have this in mind, a jointer:
If it's this one, it will have limitations because of the length of the beds/tables:
The confusion comes from someone in marketing who will forever remain nameless, called them jointer/planers. Eventually some people shortened it to "planers" and that's not what it is, even though it will "plane" off material from the bottom of the board. It's a jointer.
A planer, should really be called a "thickness planer" because that's what it does, makes a previously jointed board which has one flat side... an uniform thickness, removing material off the top of the board.
So, depending on what model you have in making the choice, the longer the tables, the better. A jointer has 2, a thickness planer has 1.
Post a photo if you can, usually older is "better", heavier more weight, cast iron etc. They are a little tricky to set up IF it's out of alignment, but we can help with that. New blades are also a bit tricky to set up/replace, but we can help with that also. :yes:
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7,222 Posts
+1, especially the gibb screws which lock the knives in place. You want to know these can be unscrewed to allow sharpening the knives. If these are rusted, they can be a challenge to remove.
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I realize now I posted the wrong description, yes it is a jointer. I already have a Delta Planer (13” 22-590) I picked up at our local Woodcraft for $299 new (it was a closeout deal and they only had 3). Thank you for all the information on what to look for Pirate. I will definitely be taking a 24" scale with me to check for flatness. I have attached a picture of what I plan on buying. He is asking $200
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Same as my jointer, purchased in late 1990's it is a Delta 37-190.
This design was sold by many companies, likely all from the same Taiwanese factory.
Seeing the picture reminds me to also take a square with you. My fence was not square to the beds. Took me some time to realise. I was able to adjust, but until I realised the problem I was wondering how my pieces were getting a twist.
I replaced my belt with a link belt.
The rust on the beds looks to be superficial and will come off easily with WD-40 and some wet-dry paper, but may be an indication of not being maintained, so worth checking the items in earlier posts.
This design was sold by many companies, likely all from the same Taiwanese factory.
Seeing the picture reminds me to also take a square with you. My fence was not square to the beds. Took me some time to realise. I was able to adjust, but until I realised the problem I was wondering how my pieces were getting a twist.
I replaced my belt with a link belt.
The rust on the beds looks to be superficial and will come off easily with WD-40 and some wet-dry paper, but may be an indication of not being maintained, so worth checking the items in earlier posts.
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44 Posts
He said he has had it in storage for 2 years and that it did have some surface rust. A little WD40 and scotch brite should take care of that.
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31,243 Posts
a 24" scale won't tell you much
It's a quality machine regardless and if it is out of alignment, that can be remedied. Just get it and clean it up and then tune it up. :thumbsup:
It's a quality machine regardless and if it is out of alignment, that can be remedied. Just get it and clean it up and then tune it up. :thumbsup:
Looks like it's all there and pretty good condition, for $200 I'd take it.
The "new" stuff they sell now will never be as good or last as long.
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Well I picked up my new toy! We fired it up before I bought it, ran super smooth. I need to remove all the surface rust and sharpen the blades but then I should be all set. I also need to clean up the garage/shop before I can do any wood working. Any thoughts on how to build a simple wood moveable base? See attached pictures.
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31,243 Posts
the most simple base
Is an axle and 2 wheels. You drill the holes in the legs to suit the diameter of the wheels, such that they barely touch the floor. Then you lift the opposite end of the tool, it MAY have some weight and push or pull it around like a hand truck. Use something like these:
![]()
Here's a bunch of other ideas:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...mage&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=mobile+base+wheels
Is an axle and 2 wheels. You drill the holes in the legs to suit the diameter of the wheels, such that they barely touch the floor. Then you lift the opposite end of the tool, it MAY have some weight and push or pull it around like a hand truck. Use something like these:
Here's a bunch of other ideas:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...mage&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=mobile+base+wheels
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7,222 Posts
The simplest way is to purchase a mobile base.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080750/33126/WoodRiver-Universal-Mobile-Base-Hardware-Kit.aspx
I have a mobile base similar to this under my 37-190 jointer. Mine has a single lever caster in the one side.
By the way, I would replace the cover on the discharge with a piece of plywood with a 4in dust port attached to the front. Mount this higher and make a small block for the bottom. You may not have the factory dust port, but the design was not good, being at the bottom of that "chute" it would constantly block up with chips.
Let me know if you need a picture.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080750/33126/WoodRiver-Universal-Mobile-Base-Hardware-Kit.aspx
I have a mobile base similar to this under my 37-190 jointer. Mine has a single lever caster in the one side.
By the way, I would replace the cover on the discharge with a piece of plywood with a 4in dust port attached to the front. Mount this higher and make a small block for the bottom. You may not have the factory dust port, but the design was not good, being at the bottom of that "chute" it would constantly block up with chips.
Let me know if you need a picture.
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