[Mischke]

I'm looking to build a stand for an aquarium, similar to this picture:



The thing I want to change about it is how the sides go together. I'm looking to put 45 degree angles on the side of 3/4" plywood. The cuts will all be 3'x2'.

What tool do I need to do this?

 

[bzguy]

A Table saw with a 36" fence, or a clamped straight-edge with a 45 degree router bit.
For dead on accuracy the table saw will work better.
Cut all pieces out slightly bigger, make all 2 & 3' final miter cuts without moving the fence.
Lay the 4 upright pieces on your bench bevel down, points touching.
Put strips of wide masking tape across top middle and bottom, leaving a few extra inches over one edge.
Flip over and apply glue to miter cuts.
It will fold right up, wrap extra tape around last corner.
Glue and tape the 2' X 2' piece on the top to square it up, works great.

 

[FrankC]

A router in a table would be your best bet, a locking miter bit will make a stronger corner than a straight 45 degree bit.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2142&sid=AF078

 

[bzguy]

I have one of these bits, tricky to fine tune depth.
If you're going that route, you want to make cross grain cuts over-sized and trim to size later.
Or use back up board and pray, they cause lots of tear-out.

 

[Mischke]

Also, I was going to seal this stand with 2 part epoxy. I was going to snap it together (using the locking 45 degree bit) to make sure things fit, then take it apart to paint it.

I was wondering if wood glue would still bind boards after they've been painted?

Also, what's the best router bit to use if i want to cut down a certain depth into the wood, to slide in a shelf?

 

[rayking49]

Depends on how thick your shelf is. 1/2 shelf, 1/2 in bit. 3/4 a 3/4 bit. If it's plywood it may be a little undersized, but they sell bits for that too.

 

[FrankC]

I was wondering if wood glue would still bind boards after they've been painted?

Just don't paint the edges where the glue will be.

 

[cabinetman]

A lock miter bit works very well with flat consistent stock sizes (thicknesses). Plywood as we know can vary within the sheet, and you would need to find flat plywood. Then, it's setting up the bit.

It might be easier and better to just make 45° angles, and then run a spline joint lengthwise. You'll likely not have edges breaking off. I would assemble before finishing. Glue joints don't hold with the presence of any glue.

.

 

[bzguy]

A sharp saw blade will never give you the problems with tear-out that all router bits do.
Personally I would never try to pre-finish anything mitered together with any system.
The corners are critical, they won't come out looking right.
No matter how good you are there will be some splintering, minor filling and sanding needed, sharp corners should be "broken", rounded over slightly after assembly.

 

[cabinetman]

A sharp saw blade will never give you the problems with tear-out that all router bits do.
Personally I would never try to pre-finish anything mitered together with any system.
The corners are critical, they won't come out looking right.
No matter how good you are there will be some splintering, minor filling and sanding needed, sharp corners should be "broken", rounded over slightly after assembly.

+1. :yes:

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