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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I made 30 degree cuts on 2"x12"x23/32" boards on the table saw. I want to glue the edges that are at 30 degrees to form a hexagon. The cuts are flat. The ends of the board are higher than the middle, this results in 1/16 or more gap between the two boards.:thumbdown: I made six cuts and they are all the same with a low spot in the middle. What can be going wrong? The rip fence is aligned to the blade, or at least it was when the blade was at 90. At 90 degrees cuts come out flat.

What's going on? Thanks
 

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where's my table saw?
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I think the board is curved?

If the saw is set properly and you make a rip cut at 30 degrees that's the only thing that would cause the gaps. Photos?
 

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I had a similar issue with an old tablesaw and I realized that the insert was not perfectly level with the table, so that with smaller pieces of wood, they would rock when entering and leaving the insert, thus messing up all my cuts on smaller pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll have to get the wife's help taking a pic tomorrow. I don't understand how cut came out how it did.
 

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The problem may not be your saw but rather your lumber. Lay it on a flat surface... is the middle bowed or let in some air between the flat surface and the board. If so... are the ends making contact? That situation will give you a gap in the middle... and it doesn't take much.
 

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30 degrees on the saw gauge may not be 30 degrees between the blade and table/insert. Being off 1/2 a degree every 30 degrees can easily lead to 1/16" error on a hexagon made from those parts. A powermatic and sawstop I have access to at work both have such awful gauge markers that I don't trust them. Bought a Wixey magnetic blade angle gauge and won't go back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The board is flat and parallel on the faces. There is a bow on the 30 degree cut face. I used push sticks to keep the board against the fence. maybe I didnt keep the board against the fence enough.
 

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The board is flat and parallel on the faces. There is a bow on the 30 degree cut face. I used push sticks to keep the board against the fence. maybe I didnt keep the board against the fence enough.
You need to keep the board down on the table top as well as pushed firmly against the fence.

When I make bevel cuts I have hold-downs for both keeping the board against the fence and against the table.

What type of saw do you have? Is it a contractor saw or a table saw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a ridgid 2424. I've been meaning to make a aux. rip fence to hold feather boards, but haven't gotten around to it. Looking at making one of toplins designs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are the two best pictures I could take. If I would hold the piece up to a light the center portion would allow light to shine through.
 

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Is only one piece bowed or are both pieces bowed? Were they perfectly straight before cutting? Is this only happening on only these two boards or also on other boards. You said you made six cuts, but were these cuts on several boards or only these two boards?

What happens when you rip without the bevel?

George
 

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Here are the two best pictures I could take. If I would hold the piece up to a light the center portion would allow light to shine through.
time to go to the jointer? if you don't have one than you need to rip saw a good streight cut on table saw. that you shouldn't have problum's , can't have light shinning thro
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm not sure I feel comfrotable running that bevel through the jointer. All six cuts came out the same.
 

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I'm not sure I feel comfrotable running that bevel through the jointer. All six cuts came out the same.
You still have not said if that is 6 cuts on one board or 1 cut on 6 boards, or something in between.

Why would you not feel comfortable using the jointer?

George
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry for the confusion. one cut on six boards. it's a two inch wide board sitting at 30 degrees. I think my hand would be a little too close to the cutter.
 
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