[igster]

#1: I have a Bosch 4" belt sander that has started "sputtering" and working intermittently...I suspect the culprit to be the brushes. How does one replace them? Simply unscrew the coin-sized plates on either side of the handle and pop them out, re-insert the new ones, and Presto-Change-O, ready to go?

#2: I have an ancient Sears Craftsman 12" bandsaw, sans rip fence Can I replace the old friction blade guides with roller guides, and if so, are there generic replacement guides or are they model-specific? Still looking to find a rip/resaw fence, but them be scarecer 'n hens' teeth , at least for this old dinosaur.

Many thanks!

 

[Dave Paine]

The coin size discs are a common method to remove/insert the brushes.

I would remove them. They may have decent length left. The problem may be the commutator having oxidized over time. CAREFULLY try cleaning and light sanding with a fine grit paper. You may need to remove the rotor for better access.

Most roller guides are model specific due to each manufacturer having different dimensions.

Take a look at an earlier thread on bandsaw fences.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/shop-made-bought-bandsaw-fence-lets-see-44227/

I would check the tuning of your saw before you use a fence since it may not track straight. This Alex Snodgrass video is the best I have seen. It helped me improve the performance of my bandsaw.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/band-saw-tune-up-u-tube-video-40292/

 

[woodnthings]

Yes to question 1. Just make certain the new brushes are the same size in every dimension.

No to question 2. Why? It's not worth "improving"... I had an older one. The hardened steel side bushings will do everything you need. You can also use round wooden dowels for direct contact.. assuming the guides are round. If not, square one are easy to make.
Roller bearing just are too expensive and don't come into play unless you are seriously twisting the blade on a radius that's too tight. That's not good regardless.