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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I am in the middle of my 3rd major project. I am in the middle of building a matching cupboard to a medicine cabinet that I built. I'm not real pleased with the medicine cabinet, mainly the door frame. My question is, do you profile the inside and outside edges of the door, before or after assembly?
I find it impossible to get square up the corners after routing when the door is assembled. Thanks for any help.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My second question is about my table saw. The blade mechanism is very stiff and has been ever since I bought it from craigslist. I used a wire brush on the gears and also sprayed a dry lube and it helped some. I am thinking the only way to do a proper job is to remove the table for better access. But I really don't want to due that because I have my saw tuned so fine, that I don't think I would ever get it aligned this close again. It is a 3hp Delta Unisaw.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Jim
 

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If you use a R&S bit (with a profile), the inside profile is done before assembly and no corner squaring is necessary. If you just use a butt joint with some joinery method like M&T, dowels, or loose tenons, you will have to run the inside profile after assembly, and chisel/shape the corners.

As for an outside profile, those would be done after assembly. If you use euro hinges, check to see if the hinge hole will interfere with the profile you select.





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My second question is about my table saw. The blade mechanism is very stiff and has been ever since I bought it from craigslist. I used a wire brush on the gears and also sprayed a dry lube and it helped some. I am thinking the only way to do a proper job is to remove the table for better access. But I really don't want to due that because I have my saw tuned so fine, that I don't think I would ever get it aligned this close again. It is a 3hp Delta Unisaw.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Jim
You should have a knob in the center of the crank wheel that tightens up to hold for height adjustment. Check that first.




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My second question is about my table saw. The blade mechanism is very stiff and has been ever since I bought it from craigslist. I used a wire brush on the gears and also sprayed a dry lube and it helped some. I am thinking the only way to do a proper job is to remove the table for better access. But I really don't want to due that because I have my saw tuned so fine, that I don't think I would ever get it aligned this close again. It is a 3hp Delta Unisaw.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Jim
if i remember right, there is an assembly just under the crank wheels that provide the locking capability. i would pull that apart and see if the two ball pins are gummed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks mdntrdr, but if the profile is a roundover, how do you get sharp crisp square corners. I can get the inside bottom part of the roundover square (the part against the mirror. But I cannot get the top part where it meets the flat face of the door frame looking perfect. Maybe it's one of those "good enuff" details on this technique, or I just don't have the skill built yet.
 

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The gears are not the only thing that can make it to be tight. There are some tounge and groove type brackets that slide together as it moves. We just got one freed up acting the same as yours. Look it over good. There are seveal points that oil helps it work better. We tryed a dry slide/graphite type stuff and it worked somewhat, but then we decided to try regular oil it worked much better. We realize that saw dust will stick to the oil, but we switched to dry type lube after words. We will also keep an eye on it.
 

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Scotty D
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Thanks mdntrdr, but if the profile is a roundover, how do you get sharp crisp square corners. I can get the inside bottom part of the roundover square (the part against the mirror. But I cannot get the top part where it meets the flat face of the door frame looking perfect. Maybe it's one of those "good enuff" details on this technique, or I just don't have the skill built yet.

You should be using a cope and stick joint.
With the joint you show, routing after and squaring by hand is your only option. :thumbdown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I used mortise and tenon joins cabinetman (my first). I'm assuming that when you put the profile on the inside of the stiles before assembly, I will have to start and stop so as not to profile where the rail meets the stile. That sounds very difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I suppose I need to go buy a cope and stick router bit set. I need to also buy a raised panel bit for the cupboard doors. This is going to get expensive. If you were to buy only one profile of raised panel bit, what would it be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
TimPA, i will try to get at that assembly, but i'm afraid if I tear it apart, then I won't be able to reassemble. I'm not really mechanically inclined. But I will look up in there and see if I can give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tewitt1949, I was afraid to use oil because of what I read about sawdust sticking to it. But I am going to try it. If it gums up more, I will just have to remove the table and get in there and clean everything and lube it properly. It may just be so crudded up that doing it that way may be my best bet. I'll just have to take my time when I replace the table and get the saw setup as close as I can.
 

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Scotty D
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I suppose I need to go buy a cope and stick router bit set. I need to also buy a raised panel bit for the cupboard doors. This is going to get expensive. If you were to buy only one profile of raised panel bit, what would it be?
I prefer an ogee profile for R&S and panels over a roundover. JMO. :smile:
 
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