How thick can I expect the finished board thickness to be?
That depends on who does the surfacing. If you order lumber S2S (smooth two sides), you will pay for the quarters before milling, and ask for a close dimension. Usually you can receive the stock about 1/16" heavy.How thick can I expect the finished board thickness to be?
So it really does not matter. What you get is what you get.I'm going to buy some 12/4 to build the top of my work bench project. So the target glue up width is 24". I'll figure 9 boards and if its a little wider than 24" that will be OK.
I had bought some 4/4 ash from a local person that I thought would be good for making the bench top, but its not going to work. I'll probably use the ash to make the legs and other parts of the bench though.
This is a good point.... The first time I milled an 8/4 x 8, it was taking forever.... I then realized if I cut to length first, it went much faster...dodgeboy77 said:If you need shorter lengths of your 12/4 for your final project, cut the pieces close to length before you start milling. Then you will loose less stock thickness than if you start trying to joint/plane the twist and bow out of long boards. Make sense?
I would leave them a little longer than needed. You might get some snipe on the ends when planing.BKBuilds said:My bench will be 8' long so I had planned to cut the boards down to 3"x8' then plane to thickness. I just missed the lumber yard, I'm thinking it might be Maple but I'm not sure it will depend on price.