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The New Guy
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You will get at most, 2 15/16", unless they actually give you a piece thicker than 12/4". Obviously, if they give you 14/4" and say it's 12/4" then you could end up with a board thicker than 3". On the other hand, you may only get 2 1/2", or possibly less depending on how much milling you have to do to get it cleaned up. A big cup in the board will generate higher losses when milling smooth and flat.

If you can draw the biggest rectangle on the end grain of the board, that may help determine what you'll get from the board.
 

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Sawdust Maker
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I have to agree with rrbrown. This is a question only you can answer after you finish milling the lumber.

I'm curious. Do you have a finish dimension that you need to meet for a planned project? If so, you need to look closely at the lumber before you purchase it. I'm sure you won't be very happy if the lumber you purchase ends up being under your finish dimension after milling.

Drawing a rectangle on one of the end grain sides will not always work. If the board is warped, bowed, or cupped the two rectangles will not be in line with each other. That will force you to remove more material which will result in a smaller end product.

Mike Darr
 

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I plane a lot of oak... If the piece is cupped, which I doubt your 12/4 is, you will lose a lot of material...
When I plane 4/4 that's cupped, it comes in at about .70.... This is ok with me, as I have to plane all my rough stock, anyway..
 

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Old School
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How thick can I expect the finished board thickness to be?
That depends on who does the surfacing. If you order lumber S2S (smooth two sides), you will pay for the quarters before milling, and ask for a close dimension. Usually you can receive the stock about 1/16" heavy.

If you plane it yourself, it's up to you.







.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm going to buy some 12/4 to build the top of my work bench project. So the target glue up width is 24". I'll figure 9 boards and if its a little wider than 24" that will be OK.

I had bought some 4/4 ash from a local person that I thought would be good for making the bench top, but its not going to work. I'll probably use the ash to make the legs and other parts of the bench though.
 

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I'm going to buy some 12/4 to build the top of my work bench project. So the target glue up width is 24". I'll figure 9 boards and if its a little wider than 24" that will be OK.

I had bought some 4/4 ash from a local person that I thought would be good for making the bench top, but its not going to work. I'll probably use the ash to make the legs and other parts of the bench though.
So it really does not matter. What you get is what you get.

George
 

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A lot depends on the 12/4. I've seen it as little as 2 7/8" and as much as 3 1/4" thick. It also matters if you are using long parts that have to be straightened first. If the wood is 3" and all you are doing is surfacing you might get 2 13/16" but more than likely 2 3/4".
 

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If you need shorter lengths of your 12/4 for your final project, cut the pieces close to length before you start milling. Then you will loose less stock thickness than if you start trying to joint/plane the twist and bow out of long boards. Make sense?

Bill
 

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dodgeboy77 said:
If you need shorter lengths of your 12/4 for your final project, cut the pieces close to length before you start milling. Then you will loose less stock thickness than if you start trying to joint/plane the twist and bow out of long boards. Make sense?

Bill
This is a good point.... The first time I milled an 8/4 x 8, it was taking forever.... I then realized if I cut to length first, it went much faster...
Even with cupped stock, I rip the pieces oversize first, mill to thickness, and then joint the edges square....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My bench will be 8' long so I had planned to cut the boards down to 3"x8' then plane to thickness. I just missed the lumber yard, I'm thinking it might be Maple but I'm not sure it will depend on price.
 

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BKBuilds said:
My bench will be 8' long so I had planned to cut the boards down to 3"x8' then plane to thickness. I just missed the lumber yard, I'm thinking it might be Maple but I'm not sure it will depend on price.
I would leave them a little longer than needed. You might get some snipe on the ends when planing.
Tom
 
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