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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First decide how much "roll" you want away from the wall. For this demo I chose 12-1/2 degrees. I cut my pcs the appropriate length, 2-3/8" wide. I cut 1 pc about 4" longer than the longest work piece, for use as a "jig" and ripped it at 12-1/2 degrees.
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Floor Table
Floor Wood Hardwood Table Flooring
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Took the parts to the router for some profiling.
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With a 1/2" straight bit set 7/16" out from the fence I made a relief cut in the 12-1/2 degree jig, jammed it against the fence and glued it down, adjusted for the depth of the glass relief, and routed it the full length of the pcs.
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Roof Wood Floor Asphalt

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Please see my next post for continuation............tyvm
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Continued

The miter gage must be @ 45 degrees.
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I glued my "jig" to the miter gage and cut 1 end of each pc.
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Moved the miter gage to the other slot, flipped the pc end for end and upside down, and cut the other end.
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The rest is academic.
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I find this is faster and simpler than trying to adjust the miter gage and TS blade to unknown angles.
Or is there a faster/better way?
 

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I don't know if there's an easier/better way to do it, but I appreciate you taking the time out to share this with us.
 

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Ya that is why I bought a Dewalt compound sliding miter saw, because that was way to much work for a few simple cuts. Use the miter to make the cuts and a shooting board to finesse the cuts and I am done with perfect miter while your still playing around with setting up your table saw....sorry don't mean to make you mad, just call them like I see them, right tool for the right job, and a table saw ain't it. Just my opinion, I could be wrong....:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ya that is why I bought a Dewalt compound sliding miter saw, because that was way to much work for a few simple cuts. Use the miter to make the cuts and a shooting board to finesse the cuts and I am done with perfect miter while your still playing around with setting up your table saw....sorry don't mean to make you mad, just call them like I see them, right tool for the right job, and a table saw ain't it. Just my opinion, I could be wrong....:laughing:
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Like I said, this is ONE way to do it. I don't have a "compound sliding miter saw" but I can do/cut anything on the TS that can be done on the miter saw, and several things that can't. I can cut a circle with the TS.

Jimmy
 

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Actually a sliding CMS is one of the most inaccurate tools out there as far as woodworking goes. Great for contractors and making 45 degree angle cuts on decking, but making perfect cuts, specifically mitres, it isn't "the right tool for the job".
 

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Actually a sliding CMS is one of the most inaccurate tools out there as far as woodworking goes. Great for contractors and making 45 degree angle cuts on decking, but making perfect cuts, specifically mitres, it isn't "the right tool for the job".
Hence the clean up with shooting board to finesse the cut comment...lol...
 

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If not a compound mitre saw, CMS, then a radial arm saw, RAS, would do the trick too and be more accurate then the former. Otherwise nice job for accomplishing the task at hand with the tools you have at your disposal. I like your over sized 45 degree triangle. Might have to think about building me one of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not too hard to make, and very handy

If not a compound mitre saw, CMS, then a radial arm saw, RAS, would do the trick too and be more accurate then the former. Otherwise nice job for accomplishing the task at hand with the tools you have at your disposal. I like your over sized 45 degree triangle. Might have to think about building me one of those.
3/4" pine, lap joints will work pretty well. 24"x24". Make it as accurate as possible, then fine tune after the glue dries. This one is about 8 years old. I check it for square/45 now and then, it's never failed me.

Jimmy
 
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