|Tony B's Albums|
|Album Title||Pictures||Last Picture|
Nite Stand Transformation
This nite stand was transformed from old style to modern. It is for a 13 year old girl's room.
I can not take credit for the design or the 'repurposing'. That is all on the decorator.
The client paid $39 for the nite stand at Good Will Stores + $550 to me, so she still got a great deal. She ends up with a custom piece that exactly matches the bases and top edgings of other furniture in that room in addition to matching the exact color scheme in that room.
She wins, the decorator wins, I win and the environment wins because this old piece didn't end up in a land fill.
Mouse over each photo for explaination of each stage or double click to enlarge.
|19||03-31-2011 10:47 PM|
Inexpensive Work Bench
Well, relatively inexpensive.
I have built several of these in the past. It is heavy, solid, easy to make and vibration free. I wouldn't want to sit a car on top of it, but it would easily hold it up. I haven't had the time or need to put bench dogs on this one yet, but I will when I need them. I am mainly a power tool kinda guy and kinda light on hand tools, but don't let this bench fool you. It has a tool well which is handier than you would think and a tool holder in the rear and a Harbor Freight vise and a 4 socket outlet box.
This bench is about 5 foot long and about 2 feet deep (front to back).
1 4' X 8' X 3/4" Plywood
1 1 X 4 X 10' Pine
2 2 X 4 X 10' Pine
1 2 X 6 X 10' Pine
1 4 X 4 X 12 'Pine
1 4 Socket outlet box
1 Heavy Vise.
Oh, and lots of nuts and bolts. Enough to draw lightning.
|3||04-12-2010 09:03 PM|
Table Saw Inserts
I make mine out of 1/2" MDF and put a piece of Formica on it.
It fits my Delta perfect that way. Just trace out your existing insert and cut a new one.
I used my table saw to cut the piece to length and width.
When I didnít have a band saw, I used my hand held scroll saw to cut the round ends and finished them with a hand held angle grinder. It fit really well.
Just lower the blade all of the way, put in insert in place, move fence over insert to help hold it down making sure that the blade wont come up through the fence. Then turn on saw and use a scrap to put some downward force on the insert and slowly crank the blade up through the insert.
To make additional inserts I cut a bunch of pieces of 1/2" MDF to length and width.
I then screwed my first homemade insert to my work bench.
Then screwed a blank on top of my first insert and used a router with a flush trimmer bit to duplicate the first one.
I made several of them.
One for each stacked dado size and one for my standard table saw blades and one for my narrow kerf blades and a few extra's laying around. They will come in handy if I butcher up one of the good ones.
I always use the zero clearance insert on my table saw. It eliminates jams, reduces kickbacks and allows me to cut fine slices of veneer off the side of solid stock. This veneer would otherwise be sucked down under the table. Oh, and BTW, you might need to cut some veneer to glue under the insert to get the right height.
I never use the original factory insert...NEVER.
|5||04-19-2009 04:44 PM|
Bowls and Platters
||5||11-05-2008 02:31 PM|
These are teak doors that I made for my boat. They were made with pretty much a minimum of tools but turned out just fine for me. It just takes longer.
|2||09-28-2008 03:09 PM|
Two writing tables that I built for step-daughter and step-son's future wife. They are constructed from Red Oak and African Padouk. Pretty much the only tools used were a tablesaw, bandsaw, drill press, router, electric sander, skil saw, hand sander and cabinet scraper
|10||09-28-2008 01:26 PM|