Work Bench Build - over hang or no over hang - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 08-19-2015, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Work Bench Build - over hang or no over hang

Hi all

Just picked up a solid wood door for my work bench top, and fix'in to cut it down to size. I've seen several other benches online, and some have an over hang, and others are flush with the frame. Any thoughts on the pros and cons of an over hang. If I do put on over hang, it will be 1 1/2 inches all around. My thinking is it would be good for clamping things to a work piece to the bench. I intend to put a vise of some sorts on it too, but am still researching the different vise options to use.

For those of you who gave advice on the build, I appreciate all the input. I decided the bench would be more stable if I put some kind of support in the middle, so I'm going to use a cross member from 2X4's in the center, and put shelving on both sides of the bracing. I'll use adjustable shelving brackets, so I can adjust as needed.
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post #2 of 23 Old 08-19-2015, 11:27 PM
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I like overhang. It gives you a place to clamp wood to the top. If you plan to install a woodworking vice I would put a lot of overhang on the end with the vice.

Keep in mind if you cut the door down it will be a thick sheet of particleboard in the middle. I would recommend routing out the particle board in the middle about an inch deep and glue a piece of solid wood in the end.
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post #3 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 12:11 AM
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I like an overhang.
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post #4 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 12:27 AM
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go with an overhang

I would go with the overhang on the front, maybe flush on the back. Also I would favor more on one end to allow for a vise if you have enough length. I recall you wanted to have it accessible from both sides. So, maybe split the overhang to 2" on the sides if you have enough width on the door.

Check out this thread on vises:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ne...advice-104114/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 12:43 AM
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+1 Overhang.
Use it every day.
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post #6 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Great...gonna go with the overhang. Thanks Steve for the tip on the solid door. That part never occured to me. I'll definatly router out the particle wood, and insert some "real" wood.

Just to show everyone's advice on this build has not been in vain. I agreed that while the bench seems stable now, I could see where it might start to loosen up down the road, in spite of my expert wood working skills......LOL... I'm going to put adjustable shelving on each side, just because I can. So the pics below are the result of good advice...,thanks!.

Also heeded the advice of another poster who suggested a shallow drawer for small tools. If you look closely the plywood doesn't go all the way to the top. I'll install a drawer in the open space.

I'll post one last pic when I get the top put on.
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Last edited by tchara; 08-20-2015 at 10:14 AM.
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post #7 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 10:14 AM
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Overhang
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post #8 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 03:13 PM
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Here's a couple more pics to consider.

The top two drawers are for pencils, squares, rulers, that kind of stuff. The other drawers are for clamps.

I made my workbench top from a solid core door I bought at a Habitat Restore place for less than $10. It was 36 x80 and I cut it down to 30 x 48. My one car garage is full and space is limited, but I do a lot of work on that bench. I added an oak edge band on all four sides. It has held up pretty well to all of the beating it has taken over the last few years. Formica laminated on top. Kreg klamp track and "T" track.
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post #9 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Ok...got my bench top cut to dimension, and set it up on the bench. I have a 1/4 in rock from one corner to the diagonal corner. I guess my wood working skills leave some to be desired. I took my 48" level, and and laid it at different angles on the top, and it seems to be flat as a board (pun intended). So I'm convinced it's the bench.

Question...should I just screw it down as it is, shim a corner, or is there a fix to which some one can enlighten me? I'm not pulling the bench apart, so thqts not an option. The bottom of the bench sits flat and firmly on the floor.
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post #10 of 23 Old 08-20-2015, 08:49 PM
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Use the level to find the high spot on your frame. A hand plane can be used to shave off a little. If you don't have a plane, Harbor Freight sells one that is pretty affordable and works just fine for that kind of work.

http://www.harborfreight.com/no-4-ja...set-92553.html
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post #11 of 23 Old 08-21-2015, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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I have the rock down to about 1/16 of an inch, and decided to call it good. I'm not sure how i'll fasten it down yet. Should I use regular wood screws or maybe lag bolts in the corners, and keep the middle free of hardware for bench dogs and perhaps t track.

What size hole should I drill for the bench dogs, I've seen 1/2 and 3/4.

What are the pros and cons of using t track?
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post #12 of 23 Old 08-21-2015, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tchara View Post
I have the rock down to about 1/16 of an inch, and decided to call it good. I'm not sure how i'll fasten it down yet. Should I use regular wood screws or maybe lag bolts in the corners, and keep the middle free of hardware for bench dogs and perhaps t track.

What size hole should I drill for the bench dogs, I've seen 1/2 and 3/4.

What are the pros and cons of using t track?
Actually my table top is so heavy, it isn't fastened to the frame. I attached some 1/2 inch mdf strips along the outside edge of the top (from underneath) to create a cradle. The top sits on the frame and doesn't move.

Love my tracks. I don't use the holes very much. If anything, my next top will have slots cut out for clamps the fit through, and more tracks. Even though I am retired and just a hobbyist, I use my table almost daily.

Typically, bench holes are 3/4 inch in diameter.

Good luck.

Here is a picture of a mobile workstation I built with the holes and slots. Lots of clamping options when you introduce slots.

The last photo shows the use of "T" tracks in action building face frames using pocket screw construction.

Hope this helps.
Mike
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post #13 of 23 Old 08-23-2015, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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Well....Except for a few finishing touches, my new work bench is done !

It certainly won't win any beauty contests, but I believe it's going to be a good stout bench for many years to come. That would make a great new topic....Who's got the ugliest work bench...LOL It was actually my first major build, and was a great learning experience. I learned a few lessons, and found a few tricks on my own, but a lot of help came from this forum, and I want to thank every one for there feedback, and suggestions. I used most all of them I read.

My next project is going to be dust collection. I have a 12 gal 11.8 amp vac, and a 16 gal, 11.0 amp vac. I bought the Onieda Dust Deputy, and want to build a cart to hold the dust deputy on top of the vac. I've seen a few vids online and am getting some ideas.

Tomorrow I'll post the build vid of the work bench on my you tube channel, and post the URL here if anyone wants to see it.
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post #14 of 23 Old 08-23-2015, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Ok
I got the Bench video posted on you tube.
Here's the link if any ones interested.

Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr_Nnak8ngo
Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDIBpdb34lE
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post #15 of 23 Old 08-23-2015, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tchara View Post
Ok
I got the Bench video posted on you tube.
Here's the link if any ones interested.
Good videos and nice bench.

Wheels looked way too flimsy though. Those are going to seriously fold under any sort of real weight. If they do fold up on you - Replacing them will not be fun as you will have to empty the bench and flip it.

An all steel wheel with a better weight rating may cost a slight bit more but may save you some headache later.

Just an opinion.
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post #16 of 23 Old 08-24-2015, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Good videos and nice bench.

Wheels looked way too flimsy though. Those are going to seriously fold under any sort of real weight. If they do fold up on you - Replacing them will not be fun as you will have to empty the bench and flip it.

An all steel wheel with a better weight rating may cost a slight bit more but may save you some headache later.

Just an opinion.
I don't plan on moving it very often, and I've used these wheels several times before on cabinets heavier then this one. But if it does become a problem, I can jack up the bench high enough to take the castor assembly out from the bottom and replace them.

Thanks for the compliment on the bench. I used mostly scrap stuff around the house, so it's not spit and polished, but I believe it will serve my needs just fine.
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post #17 of 23 Old 08-24-2015, 04:16 PM
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Overhang, as on my build, I'm going to put a long power strip, and need protection from items falling into the electrical tool power plugs.
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post #18 of 23 Old 08-24-2015, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tchara View Post
I don't plan on moving it very often, and I've used these wheels several times before on cabinets heavier then this one. But if it does become a problem, I can jack up the bench high enough to take the castor assembly out from the bottom and replace them.

Thanks for the compliment on the bench. I used mostly scrap stuff around the house, so it's not spit and polished, but I believe it will serve my needs just fine.
I have killed a small pile of those same wheels. (or seen others kill them)

Don't know the number in pounds but those wheels are only good for about 250 board feet of material or less. 150 BF is safer and less likely to fold up. (unless it is balsa)

The way you did the drawer boxes was cool. I plan to steal (incorporate) that idea into my main bench as soon as possible.
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post #19 of 23 Old 08-25-2015, 12:25 AM
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In the first video, you weren't confident about the retractable caster system. Now that you have completed the build, are you happy with them? Would you do anything different? Looks like a good system that I might want to give a try.
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post #20 of 23 Old 08-25-2015, 11:47 AM
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I'm about to build a new workbench as well and am interested in using the clamp tracks but the Kreg track is so pricey for just extruded aluminum. I also dabble in hobby robotics and will be buying some aluminum extrusion linear rails from SMW3D and seeing if they work given they are a 1/4 the price and can get longer rails up to 1500mm.

Here's the product page - I don't know if the slots will fit the clamps and I can't find the Kreg slot dimensions listed anywhere - anyone who has them, can you measure and tell me the width and depth of the clamp Ts?

http://www.smw3d.com/aluminum-extrud...om-openbuilds/
I apologize if I'm not supposed to post to other sites - feel free to remove this link if it's not allowed.

- Jace
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