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post #1 of 17 Old 04-21-2016, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Table base

You guys think this will work load wise? 1 3/4" walnut top, base all from 3/4" ash. Kids will sit on it. 60" long, about 40" wide. I'm hoping load will be carried on the 4 corners, but not sure how the middle will hold up.
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post #2 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 03:07 AM
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I vote no on that one. I can see legs like that handling a static load straight down, maybe, but any lateral force i can see very easily cracking the joints

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post #3 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 06:09 AM
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Agree. X x 3/4" material used like you show will have very little strength other than straight down. You show no lateral bracing or how you intend to fasten the top to the legs. The legs are going to try to splay when top is loaded in center.

I also would like skirts or something to help the top with the kids load.

George
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post #4 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 06:36 AM
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It's all about the corners ...

If you were to laminate the legs and make the corners a 2" inside radius, like some these it may work OK.

Joints at 90 degrees like you propose have very little strength against racking, but the laminated ones have tremendous strength. Making the legs would require some serious forms to bend the laminates and hold them while gluing, BUT it would be worth it for a very unique design.:smile3:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 06:38 AM
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I like the design but I agree with the others. It will not work with a wood base.
I have seen similar designs on large tables and large heavy slab tables, however, they were were made from steel tubing. If you think you have a killer top, maybe you can find someone to weld a base for you. And then maybe you could have the base powder coated.
The sanblast and powder should be less than than $100. Then there is the cost of the welding.
May sound like a lot, but you could end up with a table worth at least $2K, mabe more.

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post #6 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 06:57 AM
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It's too much open area and too thin ash. To use 3/4" ash you would either have to put cross bracing or plywood panels in the ends and across the middle to prevent it from racking. To do that as drawn with wood the members would have to be 3"x3". to make strong enough joints.
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post #7 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 07:23 AM
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Use a welded base as suggested...

This thread is a similar design with a welded base:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/he...please-133425/



Even so, the corners are the weak link in the design, since they must resist all the lateral forces. 90 degree corners, look great but have structural issues. A diagonal brace would solve those problems, but just won't look right... JMO. Wood won't have the strength that metal will, but laminated strips will come very close used in a tight radius, as I suggested.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 07:29 AM
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WOW!!!!!!!!!!

I'm super impressed. You welded up that base in just 45 minutes......you da man!

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post #9 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks as always gents. Racking....got it. So as George reco'd, I assume an apron not only helps support the top but I assume racking as well?

If so..how big an apron?
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post #10 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 03:05 PM
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The aprons I make have a lot to do with the aesthetic value of the overall table. For the size top you are making, I would probably go with a 6" slightly arched stretcher, mortise and tenon construction. This however, would be somewhat sufficient for a dining table. In no way would I use that for children to play on. Your top itself is quite heavy and that would make the stresses on the legs even greater.
I think the look you are trying to achieve would best be done in steel. To add sufficient strength to do what you want to do would call for lower stretchers also. It would change the entire design from graceful contemporary to a more traditional look.

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post #11 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yup....understood. I wish I knew how to weld already. It's on my to do list.
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post #12 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by was2ndlast View Post
Yup....understood. I wish I knew how to weld already. It's on my to do list.
It's been on my "to do" list for almost 45 years. Now almost 70 and it;s finally too late.
Do it while you can.

People of an artistic and creative nature can make blend woodworking and metalworking like a marriage made in heaven. And you appear to be a candidate.

Quit talkin about it and like Nike says "just do it".

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post #13 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tony. ...
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post #14 of 17 Old 04-22-2016, 10:34 PM
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that wasn't mine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B View Post
WOW!!!!!!!!!!

I'm super impressed. You welded up that base in just 45 minutes......you da man!
Here's a reason a woodworker should know how to weld:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/m...s-v-2-a-11756/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #15 of 17 Old 04-23-2016, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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From what I have read, mig welding is the easier one to start off with. Is that right?
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post #16 of 17 Old 04-23-2016, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Oh and woodnthings, bent laminations is also on the list.
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post #17 of 17 Old 04-23-2016, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by was2ndlast View Post
From what I have read, mig welding is the easier one to start off with. Is that right?
Mig is very easy.

I'm not an expert by any means, but have come a long way on my welding skills. You wont be sorry(other than the $$'s) you started welding.
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