Router table - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have a miter slide on your tables and if you do how often do you use it?
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post #22 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 04:23 PM
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Do you have a miter slide on your tables and if you do how often do you use it?
I don't. I have a coping sled that rides the fence.

You can also use a square piece of plywood against the fence instead of having a miter slot.

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post #23 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know where you can get t track rockler is back ordered until the 28th.
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post #24 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 04:52 PM
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post #25 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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I know earlier I discussed making my own table insert for my router to attach too. But I was thinking it would be cheaper. I can cut out a 8 1/4 x11 3/4x 1/4 steel plate that would match a rockler insert. What do you guys think.
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post #26 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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I can match the 1.5 hole with drawing the plate on auto cad and programming the plasma table at school to cut it. Here's a link to the rockler plate. http://www.rockler.com/rockler-route...s#product-tabs
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post #27 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jbwhitford View Post
I know earlier I discussed making my own table insert for my router to attach too. But I was thinking it would be cheaper. I can cut out a 8 1/4 x11 3/4x 1/4 steel plate that would match a rockler insert. What do you guys think.
Steel is harder to fabricate and would weigh about 7 lbs. If you are good with that go for it.
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post #28 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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If I do do that I don't know if I should make the hole 1 1/2 or 2 or bigger I don't know how big router bits generally are
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post #29 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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What diameter router bits do you guys use the most/ the largest you use the most
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post #30 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 10:57 PM
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The one problem I see in making a hole to fit any size bit, especially if you want to use say a 1/4" straight bit is the is large hole doesn't have the support, that's why most plates or lifts offer inserts for the appropriate sized bits.
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post #31 of 40 Old 02-12-2014, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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It's still going to be cheaper If I make more than one metal plate with different hole sizes. I was think the smallest would be 1 1/4 and the largest would be 2 1/2. I should I go smaller.
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post #32 of 40 Old 03-01-2014, 12:49 AM
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Would those come with the screws to mount the router to the table?
I would buy a kreg insert plate. It comes with levelers to help level it out. Run about 60 dollars online
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post #33 of 40 Old 03-01-2014, 12:55 AM
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I believe so yes they should !
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post #34 of 40 Old 03-01-2014, 09:33 AM
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It's still going to be cheaper If I make more than one metal plate with different hole sizes. I was think the smallest would be 1 1/4 and the largest would be 2 1/2. I should I go smaller.
Yes. 3/8,5/8,7/8, and 1" plus a 1 1-3/16 with a 1-3/8x1/16" counter bore.
Hole should be ~ 1/8" larger than the bit being used.

Plate doesn't need screws to mount it to the table, it does need screws to adjust the height level with the table.

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Last edited by jschaben; 03-01-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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post #35 of 40 Old 03-01-2014, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a kreg one already and posted pictures bit thanks for the help
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post #36 of 40 Old 03-01-2014, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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It's on a different thread called router table price
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post #37 of 40 Old 03-01-2014, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_handy18
I would buy a kreg insert plate. It comes with levelers to help level it out. Run about 60 dollars online
Mine didn't come with levelers. Just the plate and different sized insets.
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post #38 of 40 Old 03-01-2014, 09:28 PM
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Mine didn't come with levelers. Just the plate and different sized insets.
That's cuz they sell a leveling kit for another $20.
https://www.kregtool.com/Precision-R...-Prodview.html

Just cut your hole a inch or so smaller in each direction, ie 8x10 and put a 1/2" rabbet around the hole.
I'm assuming your making the top out of a wood product, if you are making it from steel cut your hole the size of the plate and put cleats(?) around the inside edge of the hole to hold the plate. You need to keep in mind that the plate is 3/8" thick which is likely thicker than any steel you would want to use for a top.

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post #39 of 40 Old 03-02-2014, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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It's going to be 2x3/4 mdf glued and laminated
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post #40 of 40 Old 03-02-2014, 09:34 AM
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It's going to be 2x3/4 mdf glued and laminated
"Just cut your hole a inch or so smaller in each direction, ie 8x10 and put a 1/2" wide rabbet around the hole. "

That's all you need to do. Cut the rabbet equal to or a little deeper than the plate is thick then shim or fabricate a leveling system to bring the plate flush with the table top. The tricky part will be getting the corners right. IIRC the corners on that plate have a 3/4" radius.

John

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