Question: type of wood to use - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys and gals! Loving the forum! Anywho, I'm going to be building a small shelf unit that is going to sit on the counter top and be mounted to the wall in the bathroom...I have lowes and Home Depot at my disposal and was wondering what type if wood would you recommend I use for this...just gonna be about 42" high, 10" deep and 20" wide Thanks in advance

We are just gonna paint this piece
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post #2 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 06:53 PM
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I would use either Poplar, Birch, or Maple plywood and use trim to cover the edges.






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post #3 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 06:54 PM
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It would be alright to use the whitewood to build with. Just be sure to watch and cut around sap pockets and seal the knots with zinsser sealcoat before painting. Often the knots bleed sap through the paint and the shellac will help.
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul
It would be alright to use the whitewood to build with. Just be sure to watch and cut around sap pockets and seal the knots with zinsser sealcoat before painting. Often the knots bleed sap through the paint and the shellac will help.
What do you mean whitewood?
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 03svtsnakevert View Post
What do you mean whitewood?
It's a grade of wood known as SPF which stands for spruce, pine and fir. It's the wood they make 1x4's thru 1x12's. The only problem using it for paint grade is the knots oozing sap. If you are careful not to get a sticky one they don't usually ooze more sap than the sealcoat can block.
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman
I would use either Poplar, Birch, or Maple plywood and use trim to cover the edges. .
How thick? It's not gonna hold a bunch of weight...was thinking 1/4 if I could get away with it
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul
It's a grade of wood known as SPF which stands for spruce, pine and fir. It's the wood they make 1x4's thru 1x12's. The only problem using it for paint grade is the knots oozing sap. If you are careful not to get a sticky one they don't usually ooze more sap than the sealcoat can block.
Gotcha...Thank you for explaining that
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 03svtsnakevert View Post
How thick? It's not gonna hold a bunch of weight...was thinking 1/4 if I could get away with it
It would depend on the size, and the loads. I would use a minimum of " or ", in order to get some rigidity and the ability to use common joinery methods.






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post #9 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman
It would depend on the size, and the loads. I would use a minimum of " or ", in order to get some rigidity and the ability to use common joinery methods. .
Ok...would you cut small dados in the sides for the shelves and screw in from the outside?
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post #10 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 08:46 PM
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Ok...would you cut small dados in the sides for the shelves and screw in from the outside?
Doing that you could just glue and clamp.






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post #11 of 15 Old 02-02-2014, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cabinetman
Doing that you could just glue and clamp. .
I don't have any clamps that large
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post #12 of 15 Old 02-03-2014, 01:37 PM
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Black pipe clamps. Last forever. Never have enough clamps.
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post #13 of 15 Old 02-03-2014, 02:03 PM
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Have you got a wood specialty store like the Windsor plywood chain?
I'd ask for drawer-side= carefully milled 1/2" x 6" poplar.
Seems to have the needed dimensional stability for furnishings like, you guessed it, drawer sides.
I carve the stuff for wood-cut printing, holds reasonably good detail, nice to carve.

Construction lumber here, from 1x2 up to 2x12 is graded according to COFI
Council of Forest Industries. Stamped COFI/SPF
Could be spruce (Picea sp.),
might be pine (Pinus sp.),
might be fir (Abies, not D-fir).

The pine these days is bug-wood, you can see the bluestain fungus carried by Mountain Pine Beetle.
Come on up! We have 18,000,000 ha of standing dead pine in BC that's so dry and cracked, it's good only
for stove pellet sawdust. I do my duty and burn 10,000lb/winter.
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post #14 of 15 Old 02-03-2014, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wsommariva
Black pipe clamps. Last forever. Never have enough clamps.
Boy tell me about it...I need to save up some cash and buy a few
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post #15 of 15 Old 02-03-2014, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robson Valley
Have you got a wood specialty store like the Windsor plywood chain? I'd ask for drawer-side= carefully milled 1/2" x 6" poplar. Seems to have the needed dimensional stability for furnishings like, you guessed it, drawer sides. I carve the stuff for wood-cut printing, holds reasonably good detail, nice to carve. Construction lumber here, from 1x2 up to 2x12 is graded according to COFI Council of Forest Industries. Stamped COFI/SPF Could be spruce (Picea sp.), might be pine (Pinus sp.), might be fir (Abies, not D-fir). The pine these days is bug-wood, you can see the bluestain fungus carried by Mountain Pine Beetle. Come on up! We have 18,000,000 ha of standing dead pine in BC that's so dry and cracked, it's good only for stove pellet sawdust. I do my duty and burn 10,000lb/winter.
Nope only lowes and Home Depot
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