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post #21 of 75 Old 04-03-2019, 08:51 PM
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the most straightforward "canned" solution is the desk lifter type thing. gets inserted from the side, lifts the whole thing onto a pivot point basically just in front of the seat, handle comes off. winds up "suspended" free floating, nothing sticking out....
not entirely certain the hallway has enough room for the handle to be pushed down in the doorway.... the front or rear would have to go past your door and into the trike framework art .... the other option is to put it up on the lift before you get into the hallway - which may or may not have an area particularly convenient.



working on a drawing of a 'tilting plate' - standby....
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post #22 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 09:10 AM
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This is a video on a desk dolly...But it required about 4-1/2" clearance. The handle on a desk dolly slides in and out of the casting of the dolly once lifted (not shown in the video).
https://handtrucks2go.com/Desk-Movers-Dolly.html

Gary
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post #23 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 10:37 AM
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Gary - the lifters are suited - but not sure there's room 'to the sides' to get it in and jacked up....

as I drew through the tilting plate it just got more and more complicated due x,y and z, so I dumped the idea.
actually, the lever solution you linked is the most elegant - the glitch is where to get a hold on the chassis.
the photo shows a possibility - appears to be a vertical U or box strut which seems tot be part of the motor mounting - see the circle:
Name:  1.jpg
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here's a lever solution - sorta' to scale assuming a 14" wheel and 3" casters.
looks like all hard surfaces, so a 2" caster would likely work fine - especially if it's clip on, move the back end, clip off, drive in/out of the apartment.
the lever is simple, needs access only from the rear, and should be reasonable light weight.
I would make it a rectangular box, the inner cross piece for stability and the outer as a treadle; two pieces, a roughly 2x4 with dowel to go in a hole in the treadle and a high friction notch to fit the yellow bar and hold the treadle down.
the nose pieces need a notch and a bolt head / something to ensure they don't slip off the vertical strut.

Need big time help with small project-lift1.jpg
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post #24 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I have a bunch of ideas I want to try. The uppermost problem is the "lifting." It always boils down to the lifting. Here is a drawing of one of the ideas I thought about which I got from here. What do you think about this one?

Edited to add: I see that more posts had been posted. About that area for placement of whatever device: in my drawing I show the shocks (the one shock on the right side). It is mounted to a metal plate that measures 3" across by 2" wide. I thought maybe if I built something that could slip under that 3 by 2 area and kinda slip it over the shock like a glove fit, well maybe with a tad bit more room than that but not much more, a possibility? See pic "C" in drawing. There is room around that 3by2 plate except on the wheel side, only about 1" there before it would interfere with the wheel. And the plate is 4 inches above the floor.
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post #25 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 11:12 AM
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I can empathise with the situation.
if it is within your budget, I would store the big scooter outside
in a secure place and purchase a much smaller scooter just to
get from the outside parking area to inside the apartment.
I have a fishing friend that outfitted a big mobility scooter into his
"fishin' Buggy" that he takes to the nearby pier for fishing.
then he has a smaller one for in his house and around the neighborhood.
like WoodnThings said: this is an engineering issue. some things
just can't be done within your physical limitations and living conditions.
I see your viable options to being very limited.
best of luck and hope you find something that works for you soon.

.

.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --
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post #26 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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John,
I did just that when I used to keep my ride in storage; I bought another smaller scooter that I used to take me there. But I live on a pension (no other income) and the nearest storage facility to me (that I could reach) charged way more than other storage places. Finally, I stopped going there and just took my Palmer (the scooter I have now) home and sold the other scooter. I "LOVE" my Palmer, always meant to get one. My son bought her for me 6 mths ago and she cost just about as much as a car!!
I actually didn't see this post as an engineering issue since I was going to make something out of wood, and probably, in the end, will do just that. "Wood" to me is woodworking. Engineering is just a term that implies figuring out how to do it, right? Carpenters do that all the time. It's all engineering.
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post #27 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCT2 View Post
Gary - the lifters are suited - but not sure there's room 'to the sides' to get it in and jacked up....

as I drew through the tilting plate it just got more and more complicated due x,y and z, so I dumped the idea.
actually, the lever solution you linked is the most elegant - the glitch is where to get a hold on the chassis.
the photo shows a possibility - appears to be a vertical U or box strut which seems tot be part of the motor mounting - see the circle:
Attachment 373963

here's a lever solution - sorta' to scale assuming a 14" wheel and 3" casters.
looks like all hard surfaces, so a 2" caster would likely work fine - especially if it's clip on, move the back end, clip off, drive in/out of the apartment.
the lever is simple, needs access only from the rear, and should be reasonable light weight.
I would make it a rectangular box, the inner cross piece for stability and the outer as a treadle; two pieces, a roughly 2x4 with dowel to go in a hole in the treadle and a high friction notch to fit the yellow bar and hold the treadle down.
the nose pieces need a notch and a bolt head / something to ensure they don't slip off the vertical strut.

Attachment 373965

In my simple dolly video, The casters are basic office chair wheels inserted into holes drilled into a 2"x 4". They are centered on the 2x4. I went down to my shop today and measured from the floor to the top it is 3-3/8" tall...The cross member that it sits under is 5/16" lower. As shown in the video I set the caster assembly on the floor and because the wheels trail as I slide the dolly under the crossmember...it allows the leading edge of the dolly to be lower as it is inserted (about 1"). when you see me push down on my handle...I am only applying about ten pounds of downward force to lift my jointer (200lbs)...next a few taps gets it under the cross brace. It does not really require a clamp to keep it there if rolling on a smooth surface. If the dolly was made taller it would require more downward pressure to do the lifting which would require more leverage (a longer bar).
https://www.routerforums.com/tools-w...tor-dolly.html

Note: The casters are sold at hardware stores and I think I've seen them at Walmart, and they are non marring wheels usually sold in sets of 4 or 5.
The handle hole drilled in the 2x4 in the video is 3/4" about 2" deep.

I am sure this will work well for solving this problem, and only requires mounting a flat board securely under the scooter that is parallel to the floor as a cross brace, making sure it is 5/16" shorter than the height of the dolly. I hope this helps clear up any questions. Gary.

Gary

Last edited by gmercer_48083; 04-04-2019 at 11:51 AM.
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post #28 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
In my simple dolly video, The casters are basic office chair wheels inserted into holes drilled into a 2"x 4". They are centered on the 2x4. I went down to my shop today and measured from the floor to the top it is 3-3/8" tall...The cross member that it sits under is 5/16" lower. As shown in the video I set the caster assembly on the floor and because the wheels trail as I slide the dolly under the crossmember...it allows the leading edge of the dolly to be lower as it is inserted (about 1"). when you see me push down on my handle...I am only applying about ten pounds of downward force to lift my jointer (200lbs)...next a few taps gets it under the cross brace. It does not really require a clamp to keep it there if rolling on a smooth surface. If the dolly was made taller it would require more downward pressure to do the lifting which would require more leverage (a longer bar).
https://www.routerforums.com/tools-w...tor-dolly.html

Note: The casters are sold at hardware stores and I think I've seen them at Walmart, and they are non marring wheels usually sold in sets of 4 or 5.
The handle hole drilled in the 2x4 in the video is 3/4" about 2" deep.

I am sure this will work well for solving this problem, and only requires mounting a flat board securely under the scooter that is parallel to the floor as a cross brace, making sure it is 5/16" shorter than the height of the dolly. I hope this helps clear up any questions. Gary.

I, too, think this would work!! Sure looks simple enough except for the part where you kept your "lifter" attached to your table. No bigee, mine could stay in the bucket in the back of my scooter. Now to get it built. I no longer have power tools, just my Dremels for carving. Won't bother my kids because neither one of my sons knows a nail from a screw (ones in computers and the other is a chef). So...next on my list, a drill!!!
Gary, thank you for taking the time to help me out, here. I just turned 80 last month so don't figure on doing much building anymore after this, just hobby stuff like painting and carving. This will probably be my last make in the building department. I do really, really appreciate your kindness in sharing with me. AND this goes for all you other fellas who chimed in, here as well!!! I now feel better about keeping "Lulu"...yup, that's her name...in my apartment and for taking up so much room. Worth it now!!! I am a happy camper, now!
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post #29 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 07:46 PM
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Konjur1, I don't know if this will help you...But if you live near troy Michigan usa...I would come over to help you. Let me know. Gary.

You could measure the outer width of the two black frame parts (circled) from left to right. You could take two 1"x 4" boards of that width and screw them together in a L shape and bolt the L shape to those frame parts so the bottom part of the L shape is tight to the frame. It would become a permanently attached to LuLu. This would provide the support needed on LuLu, and the dolly could lift (lever upward) under it.
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Gary

Last edited by gmercer_48083; 04-04-2019 at 08:10 PM.
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post #30 of 75 Old 04-04-2019, 08:18 PM
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No modifications needed ....

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Veh.../dp/B000H3TSIU

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #31 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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woodnthings,

Would have liked to have seen this thing in action. I am assuming it has a built in jack? At least that is what I am guessing that long blue piece on the left is. What...you step on that lever and pump it up, that way? But don't exactly know how works. There is a 21 inch space that has to be covered or met. This looks smaller. looks smaller
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post #32 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Gary,

Sure appreciate the offer, but I live in New York. I guess the 21 inches I mentioned a few times here is not the measurement you are looking for. See pic. I don't get the L shape thing you mentioned. Why L?? I'm a little dense, but sooner or later it comes into focus.
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post #33 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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This actually looks like it will work with no building of anything. And I can't believe it's "21" by 21'!!! How close is that!!! That's the exact space I have for it to go in. HAH!!! This is just great! I think I am going to go with this...really solves the problem perfectly. THANK YOU SO MUCH WOODnTHINGS! I mean that! Can't wait to order it.
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post #34 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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...and Gary, you were a big help too and a very generous guy!
Just to add, I have two very good ideas here too try. If one don't work, I can fall back on the other. However it goes, I will come back here and let you guys know how it worked out for me.
It will be awhile before I can do that because I will have to save some money for this. Just check back every now and then if you think of it.
Again thank you all for your time.

Last edited by konjur1; 04-05-2019 at 01:40 AM.
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post #35 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 09:32 AM
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Konjur1, The jack you are looking at looks like it doesn't actually lifts the car tire...It looks like it squeezes together to lift the tire. Find out before you order it.

This is the owners manual for the Harbor Freight version....Look at page 5 to see how it works.
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post #36 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 10:22 AM
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Konjur1, This is what I was saying about the L shaped boards that you would have to make and fasten to LuLu, in order to have something to push up against, when inserting the dolly. Since the frame of the scooter where the shocks mount is not a flat smooth surface...you would have to create it. I only proposed the L shape as a way of attaching it to the frame (based on your photos).
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post #37 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 10:40 AM
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The wheel jack may not work ...

The way the jack raises the wheel is by decreasing the distance between the black rollers, NOT by lifting them vertically. My Bad.
However, once the wheel is lifted, it will certainly be able to move easily in any direction. I ordered one for myself to see how they work and it will arrive around the end of next week. Amazon is very good on returns, If I decide I can't use it. I have all kinds of large heavy truck tires, so I'm thinking it will be fine for me.


However, all it would require is a curved or wedge shaped section of wood attached to the shock mounts ... for the black rollers to ride on. I do like the "low boy" design and the heavy duty casters on the wheel lift. If there is a Harbor Freight that is within driving distance they may have one in stock to try out. My Harbor Freight had none on the shelves yesterday.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #38 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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I think I will wait till you (woodnthings) get that piece, in. Still have another option, though with just a piece of wood and a jack. But will wait.
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post #39 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 12:48 PM
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I keep trying to think of KISS solutions to this problem. So far, my thoughts for this solution would have the following properties:

* Enables the back end of the scooter to roll in any direction, so that the back end can be rolled sideways.
* Must be easy to engage.
* Must be easy to disengage for scooter riding once the scooter is pointed in the right direction.
* Must not take much time to engage or disengage.
* Must be reasonably small and light.
* Must not extend very far to either side (tight quarters).

I came up with this basic design for a "scooter carpet dolly":

* The scooter rear wheels roll on and nest between two strips of plywood, which are slightly off the ground.
* The plywood is attached to two 4x4 posts running parallel to the scooter.
* The plywood extends past the 4x4 posts, to provide the scooter wheel supports.
* Attach two 2x4s to the top of the posts, parallel to the plywood.
* Attach plate swivel casters to the bottom of the 2x4s so that the casters lift the plywood slightly off the ground. Make the rearward casters the locking type. (The locking casters are the casters at the bottom of my drawing.)

To use:
* Position the scooter carpet dolly behind the scooter.
* Lock the casters.
* Roll the back wheels onto the scooter carpet dolly.
* Unlock the casters.
* Roll the scooter in any direction to position it. It should be easy to swivel the back end of the scooter into position.
* Lock the casters.
* Roll the scooter off the scooter carpet dolly.

Please excuse my poor drawing skills.

P.S. This is just a basic design idea. The parts as drawn may not fit under the scooter, so a few modifications may be necessary. It is the basic design idea that I am trying to convey, to stimulate other people's thoughts.

I believe that something like this is a simple, easy, inexpensive solution to the problem. If the locking casters don't work, then use chocks to keep it from rolling when you load or unload the scooter.
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post #40 of 75 Old 04-05-2019, 01:17 PM
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Tool, I think your concept is sound...but we don't know what clearance is under the scooter in order to make it doable.

On another note I looked online and saw a scissor lift for motorcycles and did find one with swivel casters that sat collapsed down to 4-1/2" and sold at Home Depot.com. But it was not wide enough (around 15") to fit under his 21" frame supports on the scooter.

Gary
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