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post #1 of 2 Old 09-09-2009, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Mobile Table Saw

I have very limited space in my garage/shed and therefore have to make all of my tools mobile. I am working on the design for the third version of my table saw and work table. I have kept the table the same size for the last two and would like to stay around that for this version as well, 44" X 84". My saw is a heavy cast iron contractors style saw that has a table size 27" X 44", the sides have 12" removable grated wings that I can leave on or take off. I would also like to incorporate a router table into this version. Now my first table was made mostly of particle board and 2x4's. The last version has a base that is a torsion box and plywood with the table supports made of 2x4's. So far the design for the third has a torsion box for the base, with modular cabinets for the storage and a torsion box top for the work surface. I found that switching to the torsion box base stabilized the table and removed most of my flexing problem. What I'm wondering is what material to use for this version? MDF is far cheaper than plywood, but I live in WI and my garage isn't weather tight. I am afraid that if I go with MDF a small amount of moisture in the air will cause it to swell and there goes all my hard work. So any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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post #2 of 2 Old 09-09-2009, 11:17 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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There are several materials that will work

You have mentioned a TS and a work table, I assume you are referring to the worktable for the torsion box construction: http://www.woodmagazine.com/material...lector/?page=2
MDO medium density overlay, Exterior grade plywood, Hardwoood plywood such as Baltic Birch. I don't think you'll need the bottom torsion box for rigidity if you make a cabinet type construction with rabbeted back and dadoed supports and dividers and glue and brad nail it together. The back should be 3/4" since it will be the primary structural member. An other method is to make several smaller boxes and join them together by overlaying another layer of plywood on the surfaces, such as 1/2" doubled up. There are many methods of locking/immobilizing the unit. I use a threaded 3/4" T handle with a leveling pad.
The T handle has not been welded on yet in the photo. Locking casters with keep the unit in place but will not allow a leveling process, if you have to match an existing surface such as the TS.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-09-2009 at 11:25 PM.
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