Miter station surface - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-01-2020, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Miter station surface

Planning to get my miter station done here. I'm using donated cabinets. I have to put a top on then make some cabinets for above. The cabs will be plywood for sure. The work surface was originally going to be the same ply but I was perusing the aisles of HD and they have this 1/4"thick white vinyl that seems pretty hard and slick. It seems harder than melamine but I can't confirm that. I'm trying to weigh benefits.

4x8 of 3/4" plywood is 45-55 bucks depending on type
4x8 of particleboard is 20.
4x8 if 3/4" MDF is 30
4x8 vinyl panel is 22
4x8 PB with melamine edge is 28

So either combination of vinyl/MDF or vinyl/PB will cost either the same or more than ply (and this is new, I have a source to get birch ply off craigslist for 35/panel). Wondering just how slick things need to be. I figured if I used plywood I'd coat it with poly or something. the melamine panels or vinyl+other panels would be super slick, but is that necessary? I mean I am just putting stuff on it and cutting.

I tend to overanalyze things and stress about doing things more than once.

The cabinets are PB framed. if I was starting from scratch, I'd build them all from plywood. I may eventually too, but not at this time. Free wins.
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-01-2020, 09:41 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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I wouldn't want "slick' on a miter station.

I would want a surface that is smooth, but has some sliding friction on planed or sanded wood. The table on my RAS is plywood with a shellac sealer and it keeps the wood in place when I cross cut it.... not too smooth, not too slick, just right.



The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-03-2020, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I would want a surface that is smooth, but has some sliding friction on planed or sanded wood. The table on my RAS is plywood with a shellac sealer and it keeps the wood in place when I cross cut it.... not too smooth, not too slick, just right.


I use masonite over plywood. Very durable, can be made slicker with wax. Big box stores usually stock white, and can order almost any color.
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-03-2020, 02:09 PM
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The vinyl panel is masonite? I've used it for decades, and it is really bulletproof, way better than melamine. Put contact cement on the back of the plywood, masonite, let dry for a couple of minutes, then put down from one edge to the other, use a hard rubber roller to push down and bend it. I use maple edging over the ply/masonite. if you want a slicker surface, use wax. Waxed masonite is easy to remove glue from.
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-03-2020, 09:11 PM
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i used recycled cabinets in my ras bench. half sheet 24x96x3/4 mdf for base and added an 18" particle board melamine shelf from home depot for a sacrificial cutting surface. the top piece has been flipped and rotated 3x, next will be replacement. as a tall guy i made a 6" base to put it on to bring the height to 42"
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-04-2020, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by _Ogre View Post
i used recycled cabinets in my ras bench. half sheet 24x96x3/4 mdf for base and added an 18" particle board melamine shelf from home depot for a sacrificial cutting surface. the top piece has been flipped and rotated 3x, next will be replacement. as a tall guy i made a 6" base to put it on to bring the height to 42"
This is all good feed back, thanks.

I think I'll go with the radiata pine as it's not a 100 mile roundtrip to get (which the birch is). And the price per panel is the same, except sales tax at the store. I can either lacquer it or masonite, leaning towards masonite since I already have that.
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