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post #1 of 15 Old 04-08-2014, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Kitchen Island

I'm designing a kitchen island for my friends house. I'm trying to split this back panel into three panels. The stiles measure 4". Can some one explain the math to me?

The distance between the two outside styles is 3' 7.25".

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post #2 of 15 Old 04-08-2014, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liquid6 View Post
I'm designing a kitchen island for my friends house. I'm trying to split this back panel into three panels. The stiles measure 4". Can some one explain the math to me?

The distance between the two outside styles is 3' 7.25".
I sent you a PM, if I am unclear, shoot a PM back and I will elaborate...

Paul
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-08-2014, 11:59 PM
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here is an example of what I meant. If you do it the way I said, it will split it into 2 equal panels and you don't have to do the math! To do 3 just hit /3 and you'll get 3 panels...
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-09-2014, 12:09 AM
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Ok, disregard the post above, here is the right dimensions

Sorry about that!
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post #5 of 15 Old 04-23-2014, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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So, we are starting this project this weekend and will probably be building the "skeleton" and the two boxes for the cabinets that are going in the island. The empty space to the left is for the beverage cooler. The space to the right of that is for some book shelves and the space to the far right is for the trash.

Here is the question. For the garbage, we are going to make a pull out with a cabinet door made to match the rest. The stile that is highlighted in the middle is 4" mounted on center. The rest of the face frame is 2". Is that center stile correct? With the base trim on the right of the trash can space, if we mount the door on centered, it may scrape the base trim; how do you guys accommodate for this? How should I trim this out?


Last edited by liquid6; 04-23-2014 at 10:42 PM. Reason: grammar
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-24-2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liquid6 View Post
So, we are starting this project this weekend and will probably be building the "skeleton" and the two boxes for the cabinets that are going in the island. The empty space to the left is for the beverage cooler. The space to the right of that is for some book shelves and the space to the far right is for the trash.

Here is the question. For the garbage, we are going to make a pull out with a cabinet door made to match the rest. The stile that is highlighted in the middle is 4" mounted on center. The rest of the face frame is 2". Is that center stile correct? With the base trim on the right of the trash can space, if we mount the door on centered, it may scrape the base trim; how do you guys accommodate for this? How should I trim this out?

You could use a 90 degree hinge to prevent the door from rubbing the trim. What I would rather do is attach the door to the pull out. There is pull out waste hardware made to mount a door to. You could also build a drawer about a foot tall to insert a trash can. If you do decide to put the pull out behind a hinged door be sure to allow about an inch on the hinge side so the pull out can slide past the door and hardware.
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-24-2014, 10:28 AM
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You could just make the far right side for books, and the space next to the large opening for the pull out.




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post #8 of 15 Old 04-24-2014, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, that is what I wanted to do, but my friend doesn't want "two doors next to one another. The door for the garbage and the door for the beverage cooler.
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-24-2014, 03:39 PM
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Yeah, that is what I wanted to do, but my friend doesn't want "two doors next to one another. The door for the garbage and the door for the beverage cooler.
OK, so you have no FF to the left of the cooler, a 2" FF on the right of the cooler (next to the bookshelves), a 4" FF on the right of the bookshelves, and a 2" FF to the right of the trash.

Will the bookshelf area be open?

Do you want a hinged door on the trash area?

Or, a pull out door (with a trash drawer)?

What is the height of the toe kick?

Will the door to the trash be an overlay or inset (flush)?




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post #10 of 15 Old 04-24-2014, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Answers below in red.

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OK, so you have no FF to the left of the cooler, a 2" FF on the right of the cooler (next to the bookshelves), a 4" FF on the right of the bookshelves, and a 2" FF to the right of the trash. This is correct.

Will the bookshelf area be open? Yes.

Do you want a hinged door on the trash area? No.

Or, a pull out door (with a trash drawer)? Yes.

What is the height of the toe kick? 3.5" to the bottom of the face frames.

Will the door to the trash be an overlay or inset (flush)? Full overlay.




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post #11 of 15 Old 04-24-2014, 10:18 PM
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It sounds like something like this is what you need. http://www.myknobs.com/hrcan35d.html...Fc1j7AodNnkA6Q
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post #12 of 15 Old 04-25-2014, 04:25 AM
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There are a few fixes. An overlay door/drawer front only needs a small amount of overlay, even ¼" will do. You could reduce the 4" FF, since it's not necessary to have one that wide. You don't have a FF on the left. So making the FF smaller will give you more room.

You don't need to overlay the FF to the right of the trash door as much, so, that will add to the room you have picked up. Or, just allow enough FF to the right of the trash to have the bottom edge of the door to clear the trim.

Another possibility would be to increase the height of the toe kick to have the bottom edge of the trash door above the trim. Toe kicks aren't standard, but mostly are generalized in height to line up with appliances, which 4" seems to be the popular height.

For the actual pull out, I suggest you make your own by making a drawer box to fit a standard plastic trash receptacle. The one below utilizes a standard trash receptacle with a lid, and the drawer slide is just a standard full extension 100 LB. This setup will be at least half as much as buying a pull out assembly. This one has operated flawlessly over 40,000 times. Just a tip about face frames and drawer slides, that it would install more easily if the faceframe was flush with the cabinet walls, so the slides will mount. If the FF protrudes, a filler spacer is needed to bring the cabinet member flush to the edge of the FF.

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post #13 of 15 Old 04-25-2014, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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After talking to my friend last night, we are going to make that center stile thinner (maybe 3" instead of 4"). We are going to make a pull out just like your, but will probably use under mount slides...unless there is a reason not too.

Thanks for all the help!
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post #14 of 15 Old 04-27-2014, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liquid6 View Post
After talking to my friend last night, we are going to make that center stile thinner (maybe 3" instead of 4"). We are going to make a pull out just like your, but will probably use under mount slides...unless there is a reason not too.

Thanks for all the help!
You might watch the load rating on undermount slides. They are often lighter duty than side mount guides.
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post #15 of 15 Old 04-27-2014, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Good point. I have some 100lb side mount slides left over from another project. I think we will use those.
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