[jaysen's Build Thread]: Built-in Entertainment Center - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 31 Old 01-22-2014, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by frankp View Post
I can't imagine anyone making a face frame thicker than 3/4 inch. I'd dare say most are 1/2 inch. I think something inexpensive, like poplar would be fine, but ply might be an option as well, I think.
My improper use of the word... What is the width of the face frames...

Haha, I would never plan on using 2 1/2" thick face frames!
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post #22 of 31 Old 04-20-2014, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the lack of updates, just been busy with work and life but the project is still slated to be completed.... by this year (haha).

ugh, someone help me out... i may just be over thinking this.

RE: my last uploaded sketchup does this look like how you (the professional / experienced woodworker) would build this out? or should I be building individual carcasses for every box - dresser and cabinets? Also, im confused as to how to tackle the Face Frame with this project. any input would be great! I wanna start building by beginning of May if time permits.

And one last questions re: the doors What kind are they?

Last edited by jaysen; 04-20-2014 at 06:32 AM.
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post #23 of 31 Old 04-20-2014, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysen View Post
Sorry for the lack of updates, just been busy with work and life but the project is still slated to be completed.... by this year (haha).

ugh, someone help me out... i may just be over thinking this.

RE: my last uploaded sketchup does this look like how you (the professional / experienced woodworker) would build this out? or should I be building individual carcasses for every box - dresser and cabinets? Also, im confused as to how to tackle the Face Frame with this project. any input would be great! I wanna start building by beginning of May if time permits.

And one last questions re: the doors What kind are they?
A few things to consider. Unless you really like inset (flush) doors, I would suggest making them overlay, and use euro hinges (unless you want the visible hinge effect). You might think about making the cabinets frameless. With overlay doors, the faceframe doesn't show when the doors are closed, and that would save you money and time not having to make them. Being frameless, you can use standard (cabinet wall mount) hinges, which IMO are better than face frame mount. Drawers are easier to install without having to clear faceframes.

I would make separate boxes, and without pocket screws. They will be easier to handle and move around. I was never an advocate of building in place unless there was no alternative.

Using plywood instead of MDF would yield less weight to handle, provide for better joinery, and hold screws and other hardware. As for planning the openings, positioning the TV is important to be viewed while in bed. As for the other openings, make a list of what you want to store, and plan from there.





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post #24 of 31 Old 04-21-2014, 11:10 AM
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Definitely interested on how this comes together. The bed and shelf look amazing!
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post #25 of 31 Old 10-23-2014, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Need some help... I am trying to figure out how i should build the carcasses for the photo i've attached. Opinions? This is what i've come up with
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post #26 of 31 Old 11-02-2014, 02:16 AM
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I would build them with a dado for the bottom and shelf. A groove for the top and backs. Drill for adjustable shelf pins before glue up. 3/4 ply for carcass.
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post #27 of 31 Old 11-04-2014, 09:01 AM
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I would dado all the outer shells then glue and nail together to make the boxes. For the left and right shells I would look into using adjustable shelves, that also leaves the option to add more shelves or take away shelves depending on space requirements. If these are designed to fit very snug into the wall then I wouldn't worry about a dadoed center shelf, if its not then I would put one in to keep the sides from bowing out over time. The center looks like its in two sections. I would dado all joints on both sections to make is sturdy for the TV.

This looks amazing and cannot wait to see it done. I really with I had that space to work with in my house. good luck!
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post #28 of 31 Old 05-15-2019, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Lets try this again... YES, it's been 7 years since I first posted and have not gotten around to building.

I am truly committed to finishing this year, even IF it kills me! I am actually much further along than I ever was. I have scheduled vacation from work planned (2 weeks) to complete this, finished my sketchup, cutlist, and face frame! I have demo'd the area; removed carpet/baseboard.

I just want one last look over from the pros. How does my sketchup look? I opt'd against a 2x4 base and decide to just incorporate my toe kick into the design - thoughts? I will dado the armoire shelf, pocket screw non-visible joints, hardwood for face frame - 3 1/2" rail at bottom, 2" stiles for armoire and dresser, and 1 1/2" rail/stile for TV enclosure.

Doors will be inset/flush to face frame, exposed hinges - i know much more difficult, but we like the style.

TV cutout made to accommodate 55" LCD TV (max 50"x 30" in size) with tilting mount


Anyone see any issues? concerns? comments? suggestions?

Dimensions mentioned in the earlier (from 7 years ago ) post, but here they are again;

Length - 122 1/2"
Depth - 22 1/2"
Height - 83 1/2"

I have sketchup model I can share if anyone is interested in really taking a deeper dive!
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post #29 of 31 Old 05-16-2019, 11:53 AM
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Just a comment on the toe kick. If you make a base you can level it and that way, assure all the cabinets on top will come out how you want. If you build each cabinet separately and the floor isnít level, then installation will become more difficult. Base doesnít have to be 2x4ís, can be made out scrap.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #30 of 31 Old 05-16-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Q View Post
Just a comment on the toe kick. If you make a base you can level it and that way, assure all the cabinets on top will come out how you want. If you build each cabinet separately and the floor isnít level, then installation will become more difficult. Base doesnít have to be 2x4ís, can be made out scrap.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
Terry,

Thanks for the suggestion... I cannot remember (when designing in sketchup) why I decided to opt out of a base (albeit 2x4, or whatever)... however I am now reconsidering after some thought. Thanks.
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post #31 of 31 Old 05-18-2019, 01:26 PM
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I'm with Terry Q on the base. I gave up using integral bases for cabinets years ago. A separate base (I use 3/4 plywood scraps) is easier to install level. Then the boxes sit level on the bases with no muss/ no fuss.

You may want to make the frame behind the TV a little wider so the opening is completely hidden by the TV.

Are you planning to install the face-frame after the boxes? I typically install FFs in the shop, before installation (but many ways to skin this cat) and either: 1. use a "scribe mold" to fit to the walls, or (usually) 2. Leave part of the FF as a "knock-down" -- i.e. unattached-- in order to allow a scribe-fit.

You'd be wise to check your walls for plumb, and your floor and soffit for level. Wider frame parts hide more discrepancies than narrower ones. Walls are never plumb and straight.

Overall, looks like you're on the right track. I'm sure it will be great.
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