The knifes not gonna care what type of wood goes on the handles, pretty much any hardwood will work. Maple, walnut, zebrawood, cocobolo, bubinga, ebony, rosewood, buckeye, sassafras, ive used a lot of different stuff without issue. You want to make sure whatever you use is durable and preferably rot resistant. Now, there are treatments you can use to make 'unsuitable' woods perfectly workable, but thats a different topic about stabilized woods. Your best bet will be some form of exotic hardwood, something dense and oily. Cocobolo is a pretty good go-to, its extremely durable and doesnt really move at all with humidity changes, and its not horribly
expensive. Domestic hardwoods work, like i mentioned, but wood movement can affect the fit of the scales to the tang of the knife. Best to stick to stabilized woods when working with domestics. Of the options you posted, id go for the Bubinga myself
Regarding adhesives, get some gloves and go with the epoxy unfortunately. CA glue works great for sticking something to something else, but its a very brittle bond and even under ideal circumstances doesnt adhere to metal all too well. CA glues also soften with exposure to moisture, which is important. The common thought is that adhesive under knife scales is to hold the scales on, which is true, but it also makes a barrier to prevent moisture from getting under the scales and rusting the tang of your knife. Adding to its sin list, CA glue, or most of it anyways, cracks when it flexes, and knife tangs do flex. Not much under normal use, but enough. Go with a good epoxy, the longer the cure time the better. My personal favorite is West Systems G-Flex, its hands down the strongest ive used, has enough give to it that it wont crack in use, and is pretty reasonably priced.
Glue the scales on, then shape, but finish the front of the scales BEFORE
gluing them on. Reason for this is once the scales are on, you wont be able to do any sanding or shaping on the front of them without messing up the blade. Gluing the scales on before shaping also guarantees a perfect fit between tang and scales, if you try getting the scales to perfect shape first youll feel it.
Screw rivets, of any variety, will be more than suitable. Dunno if youre going with loveless, chicago, corbys or what, but theyll all work about the same, and well at that.
You didnt ask about this part, but unless this is a show knife, i.e will never really get used, id recommend against using any sort of film finish, the lacquers, varnishes and the like. With use those will wear off in pretty short order. For a dense, oily wood, most exotics really, sanding up to 800 grit and buffing with paste wax is all the finish needed, the natural oils of the wood provide all the rot resistance you need. Oil finishes take care of the rest, think tung, linseed and the like. My go-to is Birchwood Casey TruOil. Touch pricier than a bottle of linseed oil, but gives better results in my experience. Same stuff used to finish gun stocks, so it holds up extremely well on knives.
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