Help with built in drawer replacement plan - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-11-2013, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Help with built in drawer replacement plan

I have drawers that need sliders so I want to build new ones with them.
Since I'm new to woodworking where do I go to find ways to do joints?

I'm going to use the link below for the measurement part.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6049791_make...ng-drawer.html
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-11-2013, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevortdogR View Post
I have drawers that need sliders so I want to build new ones with them.
Since I'm new to woodworking where do I go to find ways to do joints?

I'm going to use the link below for the measurement part.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6049791_make...ng-drawer.html
Some depends on the material. I usually use plywood on utility type drawers so locking rabbets work very well. Very strong and easy to make. Also, because I use plywood, I don't need to worry about expansion issues so I can glue the bottoms in which adds to the rigidity of the drawer. Here's a pic of a locking rabbet, aka rabbet/dado joint. Can be done on either a table saw or a router table.
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-11-2013, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Some depends on the material. I usually use plywood on utility type drawers so locking rabbets work very well. Very strong and easy to make. Also, because I use plywood, I don't need to worry about expansion issues so I can glue the bottoms in which adds to the rigidity of the drawer. Here's a pic of a locking rabbet, aka rabbet/dado joint. Can be done on either a table saw or a router table.
I have done this joint on a router table. Not to difficult. It is super strong also.
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-12-2013, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Some depends on the material. I usually use plywood on utility type drawers so locking rabbets work very well. Very strong and easy to make. Also, because I use plywood, I don't need to worry about expansion issues so I can glue the bottoms in which adds to the rigidity of the drawer. Here's a pic of a locking rabbet, aka rabbet/dado joint. Can be done on either a table saw or a router table.
I'm going to use plywood, and I will use the locking rabbet joint.
Thanks for your help.

What type of router bit to make a locking rabbet joint?
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-12-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevortdogR View Post
I'm going to use plywood, and I will use the locking rabbet joint.
Thanks for your help.

What type of router bit to make a locking rabbet joint?
Just a 1/4" straight bit. Can also be done with a slot cutter, just use a different orientation of the stock.

John

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post #6 of 11 Old 02-12-2013, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Just a 1/4" straight bit. Can also be done with a slot cutter, just use a different orientation of the stock.
Should I use 3/4" ply for the bottom also?

I assume I will be using the same type of joint to fit the bottom board in right?

How much narrower should the bottom board be in width & length to fit inside with the rabbet joint, 1/16" on all sides?
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-12-2013, 11:46 AM
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I cut the dadoes with a 3/8" bit and cut the rabbets with a 3/8" rabbeting bit.

You should be able to get by with 1/4" for the bottoms. Make sure you cut a dado about 1/4" from the bottom edge of the sides. that dado should be about 1/4" to 3/8" deep.
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-12-2013, 12:26 PM
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1/4 inch plywood should be all you will need for drawer bottoms. I have a pair in my workbench that I made almost 20 years ago. They have had a lot of heavy stuff in them through the years. Still just as good as the day I built them. For the sides and front, I used simple but joints and glue and finish nails. Never had any kind of problem with them. And these were built for use and abuse in a workbench.

Mike
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-12-2013, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevortdogR View Post
I'm going to use plywood, and I will use the locking rabbet joint.
With plywood you could get some tear out with a locking rabbet bit. A simple rabbet joint (very easy to make) with glue and a fastener works very well. In the image below you'll see the direction of the fasteners (either a staple or brad nail).

With a false drawer front added to the front of the box, the joint or the fasteners won't show.
.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-12-2013, 05:14 PM
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I just used half inch for all of it; front, back, sides and bottom. Didn't see a good reason to buy 1/4" for just the bottoms. I just made all the tongues and grooves 1/4" and used drawer fronts. Since everything interlocked (used the locking rabbet for the bottom joint too), I didn't even use fasteners, just TitebondII and a 30 minute clampup.

John

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post #11 of 11 Old 03-12-2013, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got a drawer made!
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