Football Shelf Idea - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 01-11-2011, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Football Shelf Idea

I was surfing tonight for an Auburn Univerisity National Champs shirt...War Eagle...and came across this football shaped shelf. Thought I would post a picture. Would be a nice addition to the man room, kids room, or whatever. Would look nice with walnut and maple.... Anyway, thought I would pass along for anyone looking for ideas for a future project.
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Last edited by Al B Cuttn Wud; 01-11-2011 at 11:29 PM. Reason: forgot to add the picture
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post #2 of 7 Old 01-12-2011, 07:55 AM
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L-S-U!!!! L-S-U!!!! L-S-U!!!! L-S-U!!!!

lol
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post #3 of 7 Old 01-12-2011, 07:58 AM
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Al,thats an interesting project from "the head scratching" standpoint.Its a useful exercise whether its gonna be built by folks or not......and isn't just about this shelf.

How fast can "you" run the what-ifs WRT making required joints,mouldings,cuts,ect on any given pce is,in most circles a very desirable skill.Dosn't cost anything....'cept a little quality time thinking about it.

For the football;I'd say BS and a stationary sander for shapes.Shaper(router table),and how many trips across.....and what profiles....and how many.The router'd lines pose an interesting ?Joint selection with glue/attatchment criteria.Finish specs.Now roll in some best practices or where can we make time......

With practice a craftsman should be able to "see right through" the project.....IOW's "I can name that tune in.....14 cuts"(or whatever).High design marks go to best practices and safety first,with speed bringing up the rear.BW

Edit to add;looking at the edge of shelf snipe would indicate a rub collar on shaper with pattern.My original reponse didn't have the picture.......

Last edited by BWSmith; 01-12-2011 at 08:00 AM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 01-12-2011, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWSmith View Post
Al,thats an interesting project from "the head scratching" standpoint.Its a useful exercise whether its gonna be built by folks or not......and isn't just about this shelf.

How fast can "you" run the what-ifs WRT making required joints,mouldings,cuts,ect on any given pce is,in most circles a very desirable skill.Dosn't cost anything....'cept a little quality time thinking about it.

For the football;I'd say BS and a stationary sander for shapes.Shaper(router table),and how many trips across.....and what profiles....and how many.The router'd lines pose an interesting ?Joint selection with glue/attatchment criteria.Finish specs.Now roll in some best practices or where can we make time......

With practice a craftsman should be able to "see right through" the project.....IOW's "I can name that tune in.....14 cuts"(or whatever).High design marks go to best practices and safety first,with speed bringing up the rear.BW

Edit to add;looking at the edge of shelf snipe would indicate a rub collar on shaper with pattern.My original reponse didn't have the picture.......

Not sure what you are seeing but appears pretty straight forward using 4 pieces of wood. Looking at the football, I would divide it into 4 equal quadrants and make a pattern out of 1/4" press board/MDF for one of the quadrants. Once I get this 1/4" pattern just right, get a larger piece of press board and use my pattern bit to cut out using the pattern I made and flip over to make 1/2 the football. Now I have the pattern for the shelf since it's half the football. Then get a larger piece of press board/MDF and route out half of the football with this pattern, then flip over to make the complete football. Now the football part is completely symmetric.

the white rings aound the football can be done basically the same way. The rings and shelf just need half cut through dados and just fit them into each other.

To make the seams in the football, basically modify the original 1/4 pattern to where I could use a guide bearing cove bit to route them out.

Like most things I make, I spend the majority of time on getting a pattern just right. I have gone through a lot of 2-sided tape and spiral router bits but the end product is always worth it.

Does any of this make sense?
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-12-2011, 09:15 PM
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I think the football and seams would be done with an elipse jig. Stitches and logo need a template. Shelf pretty straight forward. Finishing might be a trick, football looks textured.
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-14-2011, 07:43 AM
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Al,that makes alot of sense.

The shelf appears to have a cove or bevel around bttm,does this require two passes?If so how can this be done with one pass?

Same with white brackets.....they appear to be a bevel of sorts?

I forget the exact number off hand but realize that a pattern has to have extreme accuracy.If product's part has a +/- of .020",then pattern has to be twice the acc....or .010.The question then is whats an efficient way to create the pattern,accuracy'ly speaking(underlining efficient)?

Next up is safety...and am not refering to personal safety,thats a gimme and is always at forefront.Am refering to safety of cut.IOWs,tearout,burn,chunking,ect......this is where best practices comes in.And is very important,maybe moreso,even if its a onesy/twosy.If we were making a hundred pcs and one or two get trashed,oh well.If we're only making one however,the risk factor goes off the chart.So creating "safe" ways of making the cut/mould ect is deffinately on the menu.

The lines in ball "could" be done with captive jig/fixture.The problem in that for me would be the laces(not willing to spend the time on fixture for this part).Am sure the original is a CNC router.....not having(or wanting)one,I'd freehand the laces,adding that special personal touch,after transcribing lines with some quick method.

Its VG brain food.......the more you practice the easier it gets.BW
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post #7 of 7 Old 01-14-2011, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWSmith View Post
Al,that makes alot of sense.

The shelf appears to have a cove or bevel around bttm,does this require two passes?If so how can this be done with one pass?

Same with white brackets.....they appear to be a bevel of sorts?

I forget the exact number off hand but realize that a pattern has to have extreme accuracy.If product's part has a +/- of .020",then pattern has to be twice the acc....or .010.The question then is whats an efficient way to create the pattern,accuracy'ly speaking(underlining efficient)?

Next up is safety...and am not refering to personal safety,thats a gimme and is always at forefront.Am refering to safety of cut.IOWs,tearout,burn,chunking,ect......this is where best practices comes in.And is very important,maybe moreso,even if its a onesy/twosy.If we were making a hundred pcs and one or two get trashed,oh well.If we're only making one however,the risk factor goes off the chart.So creating "safe" ways of making the cut/mould ect is deffinately on the menu.

The lines in ball "could" be done with captive jig/fixture.The problem in that for me would be the laces(not willing to spend the time on fixture for this part).Am sure the original is a CNC router.....not having(or wanting)one,I'd freehand the laces,adding that special personal touch,after transcribing lines with some quick method.

Its VG brain food.......the more you practice the easier it gets.BW

I've looked at this picture for a few minutes and I think all of the surfaces are flat. The lighting appears to make it look like it is shaped. Based on the price this one sells for $29, I'm going with the flat surface...ha.

As for using a pattern with the thought of only making one can be frustrating when tear out is experienced and you have to start back from scratch, especially if the effort invovles prepping and gluing up new boards. I have had pretty good luck with minimizing tear out when using a spiral pattern bit and rough cutting the stock as close to the pattern line as possible....less than a 1/16". The bit doesn't have to work as hard and litterally shaves the stock. Another key point is to keep the pattern firm against the bearing. Any slack and chunks go flying and could cause injury as well. I use an upcut spiral bit with my table saw so that it pulls the waste down into the table vice in my face. Last advice is to use good quality 2-sided tape. I used some cheap stuff once and ruined my pattern and stock becuase it slipped.

If I have some time this weeking, I might work on a pattern and take pics of each step along the way.
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