Drawer is *slightly* too wide -- Fix? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 27 Old 09-06-2016, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MT Stringer View Post
C'mon man, use the table saw blade and shave off a little on each side and check your fit. Still too tight? Bump the fence slightly and do it again. I really don't see the problem.

Good luck. I got faith in ya.
That's the safest approach in my opinion.
I would probably knock the drawers apart and cut down to fit. Even glued I bet they come apart pretty easily.

Cut it twice, measure once and it's still too short.
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post #22 of 27 Old 09-06-2016, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by unclefester View Post
That's the safest approach in my opinion.
I would probably knock the drawers apart and cut down to fit. Even glued I bet they come apart pretty easily.
A lot of us glue the drawer bottoms in. Those wouldn't come apart easily.
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post #23 of 27 Old 09-06-2016, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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My drawer bottoms are dadoed in but the sides are glued together so the bottoms are not going anywhere.

I ended up buying the 2" tall Diablo straight bit from the local home improvement store and put it on the router table. Adjusted the fence to take off just 1/32 at a time and ran a pass on each side. Worked like a champ! I do not have any clamps to hold a sacrificial fence on my table saw as of right now, but that will change in the near future (saw some on sale in the ad I just got from Rockler).

I'll post up some pictures tomorrow of the trimmed product and hopefully some of the finished work in the next week or so. Still have a crib to build.
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post #24 of 27 Old 09-07-2016, 02:12 AM
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A lot of us glue the drawer bottoms in. Those wouldn't come apart easily.
Hmmmm
I've always left the bottoms loose for movement but snug on all for sides
I'm bad

Cut it twice, measure once and it's still too short.
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post #25 of 27 Old 09-10-2016, 02:06 PM
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For 3/32? Make sure it'll clear the pocket screws, then take it off with a hand plane. That's probably less than half a dozen strokes over each area, which is about two minutes work.
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post #26 of 27 Old 09-10-2016, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by unclefester View Post
That's the safest approach in my opinion.
I would probably knock the drawers apart and cut down to fit. Even glued I bet they come apart pretty easily.
If my drawers come apart easily, I didn't build them right!
I'm always liberal with my glue. And yes, it's caused me big time problems when it's glued-up wrong.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #27 of 27 Old 09-12-2016, 11:44 PM
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If my drawers come apart easily, I didn't build them right!
I'm always liberal with my glue. And yes, it's caused me big time problems when it's glued-up wrong.
I've assembled pocket screw joints and after removing the screws a tap with a dead blow hammer will usually break the glue joint. At least that works on oak joints. Pain in the butt removing the glue reissue but at least the joint is apart.
If the bottom has been glued it's a whole 'nother story....
I just finished putting drawers in an old workbench. Carcass was an old pine cabinet I inherited with the house built in 1950's. The back was bowed and angled in and I was too lazy to start the bench from scratch and was determined to "make it work."
I used my Festool track saw and shaved 1/8" tapered on each side to make the drawer slides work. Worked like a champ.

Cut it twice, measure once and it's still too short.
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