Douglas FIr for Benchtop? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-05-2011, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Douglas FIr for Benchtop?

Hi All,

Is it alright to use kiln dried Douglas fir or Spruce for the top of my workbench? I am using 2 x 4's on edge glued up. There was a thread about it last week. Anyways I was hoping to use Beech or Birch or something but in my ignorance I didn't realize that getting 2 x 4' s in those types of woods was not going to happen.

I am deciding now between kiln dried Spruce or Douglas Fir 2x's. What do you think? Or am I overthinking this?
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-05-2011, 05:26 PM
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doug fir would be my choice of the two. You might want to check the moisture content of the 2x's before making the top with them as construction lumber isn't dried to the same mc as furniture grade lumber.
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-05-2011, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian the woodnut View Post
doug fir would be my choice of the two. You might want to check the moisture content of the 2x's before making the top with them as construction lumber isn't dried to the same mc as furniture grade lumber.
+1 on both

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post #4 of 8 Old 02-05-2011, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Obliged, I will check the MC and go with the Douglas Fir
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-05-2011, 08:00 PM
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There are some instructions for laminating a bench top out of 2X material in here. I saw the show and I believe they ripped 2X8 or 2X10.
They turned the strips on the edge and glued them together in manageable pieces, then glued the bigger pieces together.

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...-shop-cart.pdf

Here is the link if you are interested.
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-05-2011, 08:20 PM
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I would stay away from 2x4s as much as possible. Instead, get 2x6s, 2x8s, 2x10s and rip them to the dimension you are working with. Dimensional (construction) lumber isn't known for being high quality to begin with and 2x4s are even worse in terms of knots, twisting, checkng, cupping and inferior quality.

You do know that spruce, pine and fir are fairly soft and though easy to work with, will not take a beating very well. If it is available and it fits your budget, southern yellow pine or hard maple are often used.

Another benefit of using dimensional lumber is that when you screw up and make mistakes, the investment you have in the wood isn't that great.

Keep in mind that regardless of what the mc is, dimensional lumber twists and turns more than a politician. Pick out the straightest lumber you can find, cut it to rough length and let it set in your shop for several weeks. Donít mill it until it is as dry as it can get in your shop. Otherwise the straight and square stock you prepared this weeknd will be a twisted mess next weekend.

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post #7 of 8 Old 02-05-2011, 10:59 PM
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Sounds like some good advise Greg.

"IF IT'S TOO TOUGH FOR THEM, IT'S JUST RIGHT FOR ME"
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post #8 of 8 Old 02-06-2011, 10:07 PM
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What about poplar. It is a little less expensive than birch. Might be easier ot find.
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