Dining Room Table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-21-2014, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Dining Room Table

I know there are a few other dining room table post but I didn't find all my answers there, so sorry for any repeated questions.
I have some woodworking experience. I have done a couple build ins and couple free standing shelving units. I am looking to tackle a little bigger project, as in a dining room table for my in-laws. It will be around 27" tall by 68" long by 32" wide. Those are not exact finish measurements yet, just off top my head rough guess. I have not drawn it up yet but I am looking a pretty basic design of table top, what I would call a skirt board around the edge under the table top, and 1 leg in each corner. The table top thickness will most likely be 1.5" thick and several boards joined together. The whole table will be made of red cedar. I am concerned how to support the center of the table.

So my biggest and first question is structurally how do I support the center of the table to prevent it from sagging?

I am also open to all other suggestions and opinions.
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-02-2014, 02:22 AM
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With an apron installed under the top, and inset from tops edge, the top receives support from the apron. Breadboard ends will also help keep a top flat, while allowing it to expand and contract with the seasons.
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-03-2014, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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With an apron installed under the top, and inset from tops edge, the top receives support from the apron. Breadboard ends will also help keep a top flat, while allowing it to expand and contract with the seasons.
Thank you for your reply! :D I think your apron is same as my skirt. Boards running underneath the edge of the table to give added edge support and little more decoration. Would you set these boards in from the edge a couple inches or put them flush with the edge? Also, do you think a couple runners across the center would help with support? The legs will be in the four corners.

Also the bread board ends, I wasn't sure if I would do the bread board jointing or make it look like bread board ends with my kreg jig and pocket screws. Would it be better to do the joinery without the screws?
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-06-2014, 07:29 PM
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I'd inset the skirts. On a 42" inch wide table I built, I put them I think 6 or 7 inches in. On the ends they were inset a bit more, like 12-15 inches to give room for seating. The breadboard ends really need the joinery done. Using pockethole joinery might make the top split or crack because of expansion and contraction. I just made a tongue and groove joint, and glued the center 6 inches orr so, and glued the center dowel pin, which lets the top move. I've noticed that it will move about 1/8 to 1/4 inches between seasons.
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post #5 of 9 Old 11-06-2014, 11:37 PM
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If the top is going to be 6/4 and the table only 68" long, you probably won't need center support, especially if your aprons are helping support the long side.

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post #6 of 9 Old 11-07-2014, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayking49 View Post
I'd inset the skirts. On a 42" inch wide table I built, I put them I think 6 or 7 inches in. On the ends they were inset a bit more, like 12-15 inches to give room for seating. The breadboard ends really need the joinery done. Using pockethole joinery might make the top split or crack because of expansion and contraction. I just made a tongue and groove joint, and glued the center 6 inches orr so, and glued the center dowel pin, which lets the top move. I've noticed that it will move about 1/8 to 1/4 inches between seasons.
Thank you for your advice! this should really help! When you say center dowel pin, does that mean you ran a dowel all the way through the width of the table to join all of the board? Also on that topic, would you Join the boards with small tongue and grooves, biscuit jointer or dowels? I forgot that part of my plans :/
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-08-2014, 01:33 AM
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The dowels can go all the way through if that's the look you want. On mine I only drilled through the bottom. The tongue was on the table, the groove was on the breadboard. I drilled the holes in the breadboard with it off the table, like I said, through the bottom part. Using those holes I marked with a pencil the location of those holes on to the tongue. Then I drilled the holes in the tongue about 1/16 closer to the table. That way when you tap the dowels in, it pulls the breadboard in close and holds it tight. Before I put the breadboard on, I elongated the outside holes so the top can move side to side. I only glued the center dowel all the way through. The others I just glued the top part that ended on the face of the breadboard. Hopefully I've explained it good and haven't confused you. There are videos on youtube that show what I'm speaking of.
As far as the top, you can glue the boards with dowels or biscuits, I glued mine without any. The modern glues are strong and will hold the top together if the joints are straight and square. Tongue and groove will also work. It is up to you. I hope I've helped and not confused.
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post #8 of 9 Old 11-08-2014, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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You have helped a lot. Thank you! I will have to youtube the dowel thing to just verify I understand the way you explain it. As I figure out Sketchup a little better I will make a sketch and then post built pictures as I build it. Even though it may take a while to build, as I only have little time on the weekends.
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post #9 of 9 Old 11-08-2014, 10:06 PM
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That's how I work too. It took a few months to build my daughters table. I did a build thread on it. I don't know how to link it for you. I'm not that computer savvy. In it I showed how I did it. But YouTube probably show it better.
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