Dado blade throat plate? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 12-22-2009, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Dado blade throat plate?

I saw post that tell how to make a zero clearance throat plate for a single blade. But what do you do differant for a dado blade? Since it is a variable width blade, a zero clearance would require a few differant throat plates. And is a zero clearance required for a dado blade since you most likely will never be trimming off sliver thin slices that can fall into the throat plate? Do I want just one plate that has a wide slot to house the blade no matter how wide the blade is set up for?

You thoughts please.
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post #2 of 9 Old 12-22-2009, 07:50 PM
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If you make several "blanks"

Then secure them in the throat plate with the lock down screw when you bolt up your various size dado widths. Mark each plate with the cutter dimensions after you power up and raise the cutter into the blank. It's not a bad idea to place a sacrificial piece that covers the throat plate and cutter which is clamped at the front and rear of the saw to prevent the throat plate from raising as you raise the dado head. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-26-2009 at 05:22 PM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 12-26-2009, 05:11 PM
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Its easy enough to make inserts, that you could really just make one up for all the common dado widths that you use and mark the dimension on the insert.
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post #4 of 9 Old 12-26-2009, 05:57 PM
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I've made them for my Unisaw from Baltic birch. I have, perhaps, a half dozen and all are marked for the nominal dado width.

You don't need one for "EVERY" width of the dado. e.g. A nominal 3/4" plywood is really 23/32". If you make a ZC insert and then cut a 3/4" hole for the dado, this one could also be used for a 23/32" dado cut.

When making your ZC inserts or throat plates, keep in mind their final use. You are not going to be cutting 2" deep dados. More than likely, the maximum depth of the dado is probably going to be less than 3/4". As you raise the dado blade through the ZC, be aware that you don't have to raise the blade much more than the 3/4".

Use the right tool for the job.

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post #5 of 9 Old 12-27-2009, 12:24 AM
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I have three, 3/4+, 1/2 and 3/8. For an ooooold.
Craftsman 9" that I use for dado's only. 1/4"
Masonite is perfect and since I use a sled I don't
even fasten them down.

I just use the one that fits best.

Just a side note, the old saw is direct drive
and with an 8" dado set on it, it runs for
several minutes after the switch is shut off.
And it is dead silent.
I have learned to just wait it out and not leave
the saw until it has stopped. I get things ready
so I can do a lot of pieces at one time. But the
setup can take a bit more time than I like.


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post #6 of 9 Old 12-27-2009, 09:04 AM
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Some great tips here - thanks! I have a small Makita bench top table saw that I bought from a friend that I want to dedicate as a dado saw, and this topic is just what I was looking for. Thanks again!
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post #7 of 9 Old 12-27-2009, 09:27 AM
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I have 1, it has a 13/16" opening. It is as big as the largest dado I have ever needed. I see no reason to have a zero tolerance plate for a dado. The exception being if you are running small parts that might fall it or get caught on it.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #8 of 9 Old 12-27-2009, 04:37 PM
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Leo,
I have found that a dado insert close to the size of the cut tends to reduce chip out. But then 90% of my dados are in either Melamine or plywood.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-27-2009, 05:41 PM
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I have very little chip out with my dado set. I don't find is necessary. The dado has a 5ļ negative hook so it cuts with a scraping action rather than an aggressive cutting action.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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