thank's for taking the time to reply, Terry, I really appreciate it.
So should I wipe the dust off in between each coat with a tack rag? And with the gloss, should I use a rag soaked in mineral spirits?
* You should always vacuum, or blow, or tach between grits because courser grits will break off and interfere with the next finer grit and leave unintended deep scratches.
Also, are you suggesting putting the shellac on the purpleheart? Because the employee at Woodcrafters warned me against doing so, claiming it would warm the color too much and darken it - I believe. So they suggested a water-based finish like the Gloss.
* The shellac you have is a wood sealer that is not needed for your project. It is usually used on woods that tend to look blotchy like pine and maple. Wonít be of any benefit on the oak and purpleheart.
So it'd be: Sand > dust > finish > wait and repeat at least twice more?
* Sand 80 grit, 120 grit, 180 grit or 100, 150 and 220 depending on what you are starting with. There is no advantage to sand above that on the oak because of the open pores. The purpleheart is dense and will look better sanding with finer grits. There is no reason to wait between sanding.
* Once you apply a coat of the varnish you should wait for it to dry and sand it lightly by hand using the last grit you used in the initial sanding. The goal here is to remove the roughness caused by the raising of the wood fibers caused by the varnish and no more. Use your tach cloth.
* After applying additional coats of varnish and building up a finish (it will take forever to build a smooth finish on the oak unless you start by filling the pores) you can lightly sand by hand using progressively finer grits to build the shine. It will look real nice on the purpleheart.
And for the shellac, i wait 20ish minutes, while the PH takes about 2-4 hours, ideally, for the finish to dry and allow me to resand the next level up. However, since it's winter, I should wait even longer; perhaps, up to 6 hours?
* Donít use it. If you were to use it on a different project your schedule would be sound.
Attached to this post are the products I am using.
Is there any way to seal the purple in? I've let my board sit in sunlight for about a week now and it seems the same. There's still a dark spot over where I peeled off the sticker as well.
* There is no way to keep the purpleheart from eventually turning brown. The varnish will slow it as will keeping it out of direct sunlight. If you had someone who could plane a tiny bit off you could restore its color, but it will eventually go brown.
Yes, the woodcrafter employee alerted me of this when I brought my box in for them to inspect. Will this be problematic to the point where I should rebuild the bottom panel? Or should I let it just be?
* If you arenít going to fix the sides there is no reason to fix the bottom. If it glued together you wonít be able to get it apart without ruining it.
The 3-panel bottom? It will spread apart and push the sides out? This is 1/8" oak wood for the box. Wouldn't plywood look off? And I don't have a table saw so I cannot make dado or grooves right now. I only have a sliding miter saw from harbor freight which was just gifted to me. Are you suggesting I acquire an 18g nail-gun to supplement the glued joints? I personally don't like the look of metal nails on a wooden box.
* Without having someway to put grooves in the bottom you would have to attach the bottom to the bottom of the box. If you use 1/8 or 1/4 plywood it wonít be nearly as noticeable as 3/4 inch thick solid wood. The solid wood would have to be nailed to the bottom with small brads because the brads allow for some wood movement, gluing would ruin your box. The plywood wonít move so you can glue it to the bottom without fear of damage to the box. Without having someway to cut a rabbet on the inside edge of the box bottom the plywood will show unless you cover it with molding. Plywood on the inside isnít a problem because it gets covered with stuff. Some use flocking to hide the inside wood.
Anyways, my biggest issue right now if finishing up the box, so I just need to make sure I get the process right for the oak and PH. someone said that they would pre-raise the grain using mineral spirits soaked onto a (tack?) rag while cleaning off dust between sanding, is this correct? And so, to clean off the oak, I should use air (for the PH, too?), a regular tack rag and maybe more? I am not sure. I really want to nail this finish on this box so I can learn and become a better woodworker. In my signature, I have attached a list of my tools and their specs if you click their links.
Lastly, I was browsing the forum for how others have finished PH and I have read: lacquer, ARMOR ALL CLEAR COAT WOOD PRESERVATIVE, Tung oil, and Helmsman
Spar Urethane, which has UV blockers to prevent sun-damage, which is what I am assuming Armor All utilizes. Does the High Performance Gloss can I have do this as well? I cannot tell. But which of these options would be best for PH?