Best Design to Wood Transfer - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-05-2016, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Best Design to Wood Transfer

for me.

I've tried inkjet printers onto wax paper, acetone with laser printers, taping the dang design and just doing a light dremel tracing (actually works but time consuming), and some other ideas.

All crap.

Then I bought a "blender pen" which, as far as I can tell, is just like a magic marker with Xylene in it.

And YES, I did have to use a Laser Printer. So this was a drawback, as I did not own one, but bought one under 100.00 bucks (actually love it for other stuff).


Results:






I've used straight up Xylene with the same excellent results, but I had to make sure to use a little at a time, otherwise it can oversaturate the ink and gets a little messy result.






I wanted to post just to share this technique, but also, does anyone think I could successfully open up the Blender pen and put in Xylene? Because those pens, as awesome as they are, are expensive and wear out quick. But the the application is just perfect.

So anyone with knowledge of how to open a pen without breaking it, ha, help!

Last edited by toothpick10; 04-05-2016 at 09:05 AM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-05-2016, 09:51 AM
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Are you transferring the image to carve or burn it into the wood or are you leaving the image on there as is? When I'm using an image for burning I print the image mirrored using a laser printer. Then I use a flat transfer tip on my wood burning tool and heat the paper using a little pressure. Heating the toner allows it to transfer to the wood. It doesn't always produce a great image but its plenty good for what I'm doing.
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-05-2016, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nxtgeneration View Post
Are you transferring the image to carve or burn it into the wood or are you leaving the image on there as is? When I'm using an image for burning I print the image mirrored using a laser printer. Then I use a flat transfer tip on my wood burning tool and heat the paper using a little pressure. Heating the toner allows it to transfer to the wood. It doesn't always produce a great image but its plenty good for what I'm doing.
first off, I'm a bit new to all this and the terminology, so I don't know what a flat transfer tip is, or a wood burning tool.

I'm guessing a pyrography tool, but I have never used one.

I'm using it for all of the above, I suppose. If I got into pyrography, I probably would leave out the shadows, just leave stencil lines.

But yeah, just Xylene (mirrored image, when I remember). No heating up or anything. I've heard using an iron can work, but yeah, very simple: lay printed image down, go over with Xylene (preferable the pen), and do sections at a time then I immediately use a small (4") dowel rod and press on the wet xylene before it dries. the repeat for another section until done.

The first time I did it, i was so amazed at the near perfect transfer, that I left a few pieces alone.

It doesn't go too deep, so when carving, it carves off (use a Dremel) and can easily sand off any that remains.

Make sense? maybe I'll do a little video next time.
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-05-2016, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by toothpick10 View Post
first off, I'm a bit new to all this and the terminology, so I don't know what a flat transfer tip is, or a wood burning tool.

I'm guessing a pyrography tool, but I have never used one.

I'm using it for all of the above, I suppose. If I got into pyrography, I probably would leave out the shadows, just leave stencil lines.

But yeah, just Xylene (mirrored image, when I remember). No heating up or anything. I've heard using an iron can work, but yeah, very simple: lay printed image down, go over with Xylene (preferable the pen), and do sections at a time then I immediately use a small (4") dowel rod and press on the wet xylene before it dries. the repeat for another section until done.

The first time I did it, i was so amazed at the near perfect transfer, that I left a few pieces alone.

It doesn't go too deep, so when carving, it carves off (use a Dremel) and can easily sand off any that remains.

Make sense? maybe I'll do a little video next time.
Yes, I'm talking about a pyrography tool. Sounds like we use the same method except you use xylene and i use heat from the pyrography tool. the heat and xylene are essentially doing the same thing in making the toner transferable when pressure is applied.

I may have to give your method a shot some time to see how it compares.

This is the tool I'm talking about: (http://smile.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollo...od+burning+kit
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post #5 of 12 Old 04-05-2016, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nxtgeneration View Post
Yes, I'm talking about a pyrography tool. Sounds like we use the same method except you use xylene and i use heat from the pyrography tool. the heat and xylene are essentially doing the same thing in making the toner transferable when pressure is applied.

I may have to give your method a shot some time to see how it compares.

This is the tool I'm talking about: (http://smile.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollo...od+burning+kit
oh ok that makes sense. i'm wondering if an iron would do the same thing. might not get hot enough.

funny, in another thread I was discussing a method for wood staining that would really make the cuts darker and add more contrast and someone suggest trying pyrography. I may get one of those.

i noticed on the amazon site, a colored picture of a flag. is that a transfer?

yeah, the xylene method has been by far the neatest and cleanest. And with that huge container, I may have a lifetime supply, haha.

If you do try, just remember to not oversaturate. Like just a little bit on a cotton ball or even paper towel. The pen works great, it's just not worth the price. I got a 2-pack and one pen ran out after about 6 transfers.

http://www.amazon.com/Chartpak-Ad-Ma...ds=blender+pen

Last edited by toothpick10; 04-05-2016 at 11:31 AM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-05-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by toothpick10 View Post
for me.
Snip
I wanted to post just to share this technique, but also, does anyone think I could successfully open up the Blender pen and put in Xylene? Because those pens, as awesome as they are, are expensive and wear out quick. But the the application is just perfect.

So anyone with knowledge of how to open a pen without breaking it, ha, help!
You can purchase mini roller ball glass vials on Ebay, they are sold for essential oils, that are made to be refillable.
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-06-2016, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by toothpick10 View Post
...snip... but also, does anyone think I could successfully open up the Blender pen and put in Xylene? Because those pens, as awesome as they are, are expensive and wear out quick. But the the application is just perfect.

So anyone with knowledge of how to open a pen without breaking it, ha, help!

My first thought on refill would be simple, a small cup, pour in the Xylene and dip the tip.


To completely refill the marker, I would drill a small hole, maybe 1/16" or so at the top end but below where the cap sits when stored while the marker is opened, and use a dropper or old syringe to refill the barrel with Xylene. Then put in a tiny sheet metal screw to cap the hole.


And for those (like me) that haven't bought the blender marker yet, I plan to use an old dried out highlighter marker. I'll get some color out of it still, but for transferring patterns for routing/carving, etc. should work fine. Plus I'll get marks to show what parts of the pattern I have already transferred!
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-07-2016, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dodis View Post
My first thought on refill would be simple, a small cup, pour in the Xylene and dip the tip.


To completely refill the marker, I would drill a small hole, maybe 1/16" or so at the top end but below where the cap sits when stored while the marker is opened, and use a dropper or old syringe to refill the barrel with Xylene. Then put in a tiny sheet metal screw to cap the hole.


And for those (like me) that haven't bought the blender marker yet, I plan to use an old dried out highlighter marker. I'll get some color out of it still, but for transferring patterns for routing/carving, etc. should work fine. Plus I'll get marks to show what parts of the pattern I have already transferred!
hey, that's not a bad idea. I think I have one of those unused ear syringes somewhere. Only thing is that i'm thinking the felt part (or whatever it's made of) is in a plastic sheath/tube.

If I drilled a big enough hole (there's 40 ways to fill it) I could see. but I may try taking the plastic white cap off, though damage to it is 50/50. But, if even if I broke it totally, no real loss.

I am really bad at chemistry so I don't know what materials xylene/acetone do to plastics. Obviously the pen is plastic, but I don't know about the felt part. Oh well, trial and error (specifically thinking about your highlighter pen, which I'm sure is made of the same materials)

If you do use this method, I'd love to see the results

Last edited by toothpick10; 04-07-2016 at 04:09 AM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-07-2016, 04:34 PM
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Your pen should be fine with the Xylene since that is what is came with. Look close before you try to pull out the white end cap, often times there is a small wire pinning them together, like a tiny pin-nail. Just push it on inside with another nail, then the cap should come out easy.

To refill, I think I still have some leftover syringes with needles, so I could inject alongside the existing tip into the large felt reservoir and then there are no new holes to fill.

As for me trying an old highlighter, once I have a dry one to work with, if the plastic starts melting, it will go on into the trash where it was headed before...

And if it does, next test would be a small piece of felt or cloth wired onto a piece of dowel or scrap and dipped in the xylene. More than one way to skin a cat!

Once I need to transfer something I'll give it a shot. And if I can remember, I'll post results here...
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-27-2016, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Your pen should be fine with the Xylene since that is what is came with. Look close before you try to pull out the white end cap, often times there is a small wire pinning them together, like a tiny pin-nail. Just push it on inside with another nail, then the cap should come out easy.

To refill, I think I still have some leftover syringes with needles, so I could inject alongside the existing tip into the large felt reservoir and then there are no new holes to fill.

As for me trying an old highlighter, once I have a dry one to work with, if the plastic starts melting, it will go on into the trash where it was headed before...

And if it does, next test would be a small piece of felt or cloth wired onto a piece of dowel or scrap and dipped in the xylene. More than one way to skin a cat!

Once I need to transfer something I'll give it a shot. And if I can remember, I'll post results here...

okie dok. So I basically did what you said. I didn't have any needle syringes, but like I said, I have this like ear flushing syringe with the missing, disposable tip.

the hole on it is small but no where near a needle, so I had to drill, from the top, about 1/8 hole, which worked out. I really tried to get that freaking white cap off, ha, but it's either glued on or some kind of special plastic that went deep into the marker (i kind of chipped some of the black away, but it was DUG in there).

There was some kind of absorbant material that I could barely see (from both ends, took the applicator off, probably could have gone in that way), but yeah, I just emptied most of the syringe of xylene, the applicator tip was wet again, and finished a transfer and it was just as effective as when I bought it.

ha, so anyone buying those blender pens more than once is a sucker cuz I think I have enough xylene for the next decade.











I guess I won't be mangling the top of the pen next time, ha.
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post #11 of 12 Old 04-27-2016, 01:33 PM
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Toothpick,


Glad it worked for ya! I guess now most marker manufacturing processes are using ultrasonic frequencies to weld the plastic together (does seal it better). So that would explain why you couldn't get it apart. But a hole and a screw should be just fine!


Now, as soon as I can scratch another honey-do or two off the list, then I can get back to MY time in the shop!

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post #12 of 12 Old 04-27-2016, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Toothpick,


Glad it worked for ya! I guess now most marker manufacturing processes are using ultrasonic frequencies to weld the plastic together (does seal it better). So that would explain why you couldn't get it apart. But a hole and a screw should be just fine!


Now, as soon as I can scratch another honey-do or two off the list, then I can get back to MY time in the shop!
Honey-Do. I had to look that up, haha. "Chores from girlfriend/wife" good stuff.

God speed!
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