The bane of my existence - drawer questions please - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 42 Old 05-17-2016, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by subroc View Post
That was no way directed at you or even about your learning curve. Just his comment was humorous.

I feel your pain. I am new to woodworking as well. Every step is a journey. I follow yours with interest.
Nah, I didn't take it that way at all - it was funny to me also
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post #22 of 42 Old 05-17-2016, 08:47 PM
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Sorry guys...it wasn't meant to look down at you by any stretch....

I was just sitting at my desk really confused.
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post #23 of 42 Old 05-17-2016, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry guys...it wasn't meant to look down at you by any stretch....

I was just sitting at my desk really confused.
No need - I understood completely
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post #24 of 42 Old 05-17-2016, 09:52 PM
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Doesn't that require a router to cut out the center??
You could make a wood slide with a T-slot to put on the underside of the drawer box or you can buy a plastic rear guide to put on the box. The beauty of the system is if for any reason the drawer doesn't close to the opening just right you can adjust the center rail left or right to make it fit right. You could also just make the strip square and make a square notch on the back of the drawer box. You would just have to put additional rails above the drawer box on each side to keep the front of the drawer from dropping when you open it up.
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post #25 of 42 Old 05-17-2016, 10:24 PM
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You could make a wood slide with a T-slot to put on the underside of the drawer box or you can buy a plastic rear guide to put on the box. The beauty of the system is if for any reason the drawer doesn't close to the opening just right you can adjust the center rail left or right to make it fit right. You could also just make the strip square and make a square notch on the back of the drawer box. You would just have to put additional rails above the drawer box on each side to keep the front of the drawer from dropping when you open it up.
I got your last picture comment but I was called away before I could respond and now I can't find it. I don't think I will ever be able to operate a computer.
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post #26 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 10:19 AM
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Someone I learned a lot from once called a drawer 'A box in a hole'. Seems like that is what you are trying to do. One of the advanages to this approach, you can pull the drawer out and set it next to the work, which can be useful at times, for example I have a divided tray with 13 Japanese chisels in it. I set it near where I am working as I tend to move from one size to another.

For shop drawers a Kreg Pocket Hole jig is a very effective way to attach the sides to the back and front.
I like to use screen door pulls for drawer pulls, $1.75 ea. and they look correct to me.
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post #27 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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@Steve Neul - I think that channel needs a router to cut the channel correct?

I don't have a router set up that will do that yet - I have a router (old craftsman industrial), I have router bits (1/4 and 1/2 shank) - I have no table and no idea how to use the router without a table yet - haven't read that book yet LOL

@Brian(J) - I use those handles for some of my cabinet doors that I made - I also have some old kitchen cabinet handles I will use

I like recycling stuff and getting reuse out of items
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post #28 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by new2woodwrk View Post
@Steve Neul - I think that channel needs a router to cut the channel correct?

I don't have a router set up that will do that yet - I have a router (old craftsman industrial), I have router bits (1/4 and 1/2 shank) - I have no table and no idea how to use the router without a table yet - haven't read that book yet LOL

@Brian(J) - I use those handles for some of my cabinet doors that I made - I also have some old kitchen cabinet handles I will use

I like recycling stuff and getting reuse out of items
A router would be better but you could make that rail that fits in the cabinet with a table saw. It's just the one on the bottom of the drawer if you didn't use the plastic clip you would have to have a router for. There is also another style which the parts are more like a dovetail which you could make both pieces with a table saw.
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post #29 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down

Ok, here's the update on my drawers...

I learned 2 new terms yesterday and had an opportunity to use both - Rails and Stiles!

I began work this morning on the rails and stiles (like that? :) ) for my drawer frames - was going to start with 1.

Here's the pics of the build...

Cut the rails and stiles



Measured - all equal length - cut all the stiles at once, cut all the rails at once and cut the runners at once.









So far so good

I have a single kreg pocket hole jig but didn't work very well - wouldn't join the wood (no gluing):



2" inch screws? Nope too long



Nope too long and the single kreg didn't work - went to Lowe's and bought the R3 pocket jig - I'm now $43 poorer for it :( but it seem to work to get the holes drilled

Ok, the R3 seemed to work - helps to read the instructions... Clamp one stile to one rail and get ready to screw in and join



Strike 1 - the stile split - cut another stile



Strike 2 - split stile #2 - cut another stile...



And there we have it ladies and gentleman - strike three and we're out! Like the say 3 strikes and you're out!!!



3 stiles all split using 1 1/4" wood screws! Now I'm out of all the wood I bought the other day - good thing I didn't buy really good wood or I would be one really pissed off firewood maker

Like I said - drawers are the bane of my existence.

I can take a hint - no more drawers for me! Shelves and cabinets are all I can build.
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post #30 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 04:56 PM
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Did you use kreg jig screws, or cheap construction screws?

Head shape matters for pocket holes.


Also, did you adjust your pocket hole jig for the wood thickness?
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post #31 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ryan50hrl View Post
Did you use kreg jig screws, or cheap construction screws?
Used the Kreg - 1 1/4" coarse

Quote:
Head shape matters for pocket holes.
Figured that's why it came with the screws

Quote:

Also, did you adjust your pocket hole jig for the wood thickness?
Yes, set both the drill bit and the jig for 3/4" - the single one I had didn't have an adjustment but the R3 had lots of instructions - followed them to a T.
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post #32 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 06:29 PM
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What did you use to install the screws? Possible you over tightened them??
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post #33 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ryan50hrl View Post
What did you use to install the screws? Possible you over tightened them??
Probably - I used my drill - I always use my drill for something like this.

I guess the difference is I can't tell when they're tight and keep spinning the screws?
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post #34 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 08:41 PM
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Am I missing something? You want to build utility drawers for your work shop, but you're trying rail-and-style drawer fronts before you even have drawers? Or are you using the rail-and-stile construction for some other part of the drawer?

Start with a few simple drawers.
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post #35 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike,

I can make the simple drawers (well kinda) - it's getting them into something so they roll in and out that is the real problem

I've tried:

  1. Making a frame - that was today's fiasco - was trying to make a drawer frame and use wood runners instead of guides. Kept splitting the wood when joining the rails and stiles using pocket holes with a R3 Kreg jig - I think ryan is right and I was tightening the screws too much. Problem for me is I have severe CTS (carpal tunnel) in both my hands and using pressure with them sets it off - so using a screw driver for example will set off my CTS for days
  2. Making a box - I've tried this method twice - first time the drawers fit in the box but they didn't roll properly - I used guides I had from old drawers and cabinets - they wouldn't pull out without great force - they weren't too tight the guides were skewed probably not level or something properly
  3. 2nd time I'm still working on - I have 3 drawers made sitting in one of my carts needing a box (3/4" ply - I seem to work well with 3/4" ply) I can't get the box measured correctly so haven't put them together yet. When I try to measure the width of the box and cut a piece it's either too short or too long

I think you're all caught up now :)

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post #36 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 10:40 PM
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What kind of drill do you have? Does it have an adjustable clutch??
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post #37 of 42 Old 05-18-2016, 11:17 PM
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Take a look at the first picture. You showed us that you were using screws like the ones on the left. Those are wood screws, not pocket hole screws. The bugle head will keep going as far into the wood as you can push it. You have to use the screws that look like the other two. The self tapping tips and pan heads are the key.

Now make sure your kreg jig and drill bit are set like in the next two pictures. If your having trouble splitting, set the drill bit stop to 5/8".

Finally, set your drill like in the last picture. Use the low speed and set the clutch low, maybe down to 4 since you're using pine.. As soon as the two boards are tight, that's enough on the screws.
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post #38 of 42 Old 05-19-2016, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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What kind of drill do you have? Does it have an adjustable clutch??
I have a Black & Decker 24v

Yes it does have adjustments, but I've never used the adjustment
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post #39 of 42 Old 05-19-2016, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks @sanchez

Yes I did all that except the clutch adjustment

As far as the picture - I didn't get to use that screw so it was a bad example - I used it for length comparison BEFORE I bought the R3 since my single kreg didn't have any adjustments - it was all guess work and I guessed wrong :(

At least the new jig I have (R3) has instructions and adjustments
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post #40 of 42 Old 05-19-2016, 07:25 AM
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One more thing. You now have all that wood that you describe as "Firewood". I never try a new technique on the finished product, no matter what hobby I am pursuing. I tie flies, but a new tying technique gets "learned" on a bare hook until I understand it.

Use up a length of scrap just drilling and screwing in kreg jig joints.
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