Advice for a newbie on building a table saw cabinet - sketchup plans included - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 02-13-2016, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Question Advice for a newbie on building a table saw cabinet - sketchup plans included

So I've done some woodworking before, but this is the first major project I've designed myself. I'd love to hear some feedback from experienced woodworkers - especially if you see problems with my plans! I'll probably start building by the end of the month, so now is the time to correct issues!

Basically, my project goals:

Must Do:
1. Cabinet for my new DW745 Contractor-style table saw
2. Provide good rip capacity
3. Have rails for a Biesemeyer-style fence
4. Fit into an approx. 6'x3' footprint - can go a little over but this is a good general size for sitting along the wall of my garage
5. Be movable into the center of the garage for actual use

Nice to Have:
1. Space for a router lift eventually
2. Storage space
3. Not cover the initial factory top of the saw (so as not to restrict maximum cut depth)
4. Have an outfeed table

Some notes about the project:

1. The base of the table will be a lazy man's torsion box, with ribs of scrap MDF from the other pieces. Mainly I just wanted to keep the base stable as there's an almost six foot span between casters/legs.
2. The corner legs are 4x4s of pressure treated pine ripped down in one dimension to 3" actual width
3. I plan to put drawers in the middle section and the section below the saw. Eventually the right section will be used as a router table, and drawers built below.
4. The casters in the file are just placeholders. The actual casters are leveling, and they have rubber feet to raise the table off the wheels themselves and dampen vibration. Rated to 1300 lbs for all four together.
5. The tabletops will be two sheets of 3/4 MDF glued together, with some cheap laminate sheeting on the top.
6. Joinery: Most of the studs will be joined with glue and pocket screws; the plywood base will be screwed and glued together as well. The hardwood will be mainly joined with brads and glue. The steel fence tubing will be tapped for 1/4-20 bolts and the angle iron bolted to it. The side paneling will just be screwed in so I can remove it if/when I need to.
7. I know I will need to continue miter tracks into the outfeed table, I just got lazy in Sketchup and didn't do it yet.

The table saw shelf-on-a-shelf approach needs some explanation:
- The bottom shelf is just straight up attached to the carcass by screws and glue.
- The upper shelf is mounted on four leveling legs (not shown) which go through tee nuts in the upper shelf's MDF panel (also not shown). The feet sit on the lower shelf.
- The legs are used to level the saw with the table above. There will also be a little side-to-side play to allow the miter slots to be squared to the fence.
- Once leveled and squared, the four star knobs pictured will tighten down 1/4-20 bolts that go through the holes in the angle iron and through slots on the plywood. I was going to use a large rubber washer on the plywood side to distribute the stress, provide tension, and dampen vibration.

The folding outfeed table is a modified design based on one that appeared in the Jan '09 Woodworker's Journal.

As to key tools, I have a circular saw, table saw (obviously), jigsaw, sander, and router, and I was going to cut the metal on a cutoff disk with an angle grinder. Notably absent are a jointer or planer - I wasn't planning on doing any of that, although I can hand plane stuff down if I need to.

Thank you for taking a look!
Attached Files
File Type: skp Table Saw Cabinet.skp (4.97 MB, 136 views)

Last edited by PMV; 02-13-2016 at 02:01 PM.
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post #2 of 4 Old 02-13-2016, 04:13 PM
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Welcome here to this friendly WW forum, where here is always room for one more. Your project plan is very detailed and IMO will be interesting to see the progress. However I could not open your "attached Table Saw files", as there could be a glitch somewhere. Also your tool list did not show an electric hand drill - which would be handy to have for those larger bolt holes. Be safe.
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post #3 of 4 Old 02-13-2016, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up about the broken file - I'll try to troubleshoot!

Yes, I have a cordless hand drill, but not a corded drill nor a drill press (saved that one for my birthday wish list - my dad'll be thrilled to buy me more power tools). I do have one of those metal alignment guides to help drill perpendicular holes.

I am somewhat worried if I can drill out 1/4" angle iron with my hand drill or not; the drill struggled mightily to put 1" holes through some floor joists when I was running conduit, but I'm not certain if the battery was topped off or not.
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post #4 of 4 Old 02-14-2016, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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Hmm, the SketchUp model works for me when I download it on either computer (using SketchUp Make 2015). Here are some images if it's still not working (or for those who don't want SketchUp). Click thumbs to embiggen the image.

First, a look at the base, here with the top sheet of plywood hidden. 2x4s and some scraps of 3/4" MDF left over from other pieces of the project. The top and bottom of this base will be 1/2" plywood. The 2x4s are not evenly spaced, but are designed to line up with the vertical supports that will be shown next:


Here I show the top plywood surface as well as the vertical supports. I thought it would be stronger to notch out the plywood and let the vertical supports directly attach to the 2x4s beneath - if that isn't true I can change this :)


More 2x4s. The weirdly notched out ones have a cut-out for another 2x4, and the angle is just so I don't bang into the dang things and hurt myself.


The full carcass of the table


The bottom of the two saw support shelves, showing the slots where the bolts will go through. Sides are 1/2" ply, bottom is 3/4" MDF


The upper saw support shelf floating mysteriously on the invisible leveling legs. The yellow is painted angle iron.


With the table top. Two sheets of 3/4" MDF with some cheap laminate on top. 3/4" Red Oak is used for the trim (and all the other hardwood in this project)


Showing how this would look with the saw installed.


And with the painted rails for the fence.


Here I didn't really have a good plan for paneling the back, as I didn't want it to extend past the back of the legs, so I put some 1x1s around to screw plywood panels against.


With some plywood paneling. The saw compartment is left open for access to the bolts, leveling feet, and dust collection, which on this saw is in the rear.


And for a huge leap forward, with the outfeed table added. This is scaled up from a Woodworker's Journal article. Basically, the leg is a giant 15" wide sliding dovetail with a barrel bolt and a shelf to hold it in position. This gives about 46 inches of support behind the peak of the blade.
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