Adding Mitre Slot to router table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 12-28-2009, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Adding Mitre Slot to router table

Hey All,

I want to add a mitre slot to my router table. Unfortunately when I bought it I didn't realize it didn't have it, etc.. I've had it over a year and am wondering if it's possible.

Now, I know how to route a dado in it, and then use an aluminum track, etc.. I want to do a combo mitre slot/t-track. My question is this, the description of it is "High pressure laminated" router table. It sits in the wings of my table saw obviously. Do you guys think I can use a straight bit and just route a dado in it? Or do you think that will cause tons of chipout and hurt my bit, etc..

Also, I tried to search and didn't find it... Also, how far from the router plate do you guys think I should put it? I could go measure some commercial ones..

Any advice is appreciated..

Thanks..

Brad
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post #2 of 19 Old 12-28-2009, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 19 Old 12-29-2009, 12:19 AM
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Yes it is possible. I put a "T" track slot in my bench top which is covered with High Pressure Laminate, a.k.a. Formica. Just get a plunge bit and use your existing fence as a guide for the router.

Takes longer to type about it than to do it.

Use the right tool for the job.

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post #4 of 19 Old 12-29-2009, 12:55 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Consider this approach

Like rich said use the existing fence and locate it parallel to the FRONT edge of the table, the desired distance from the center hole. This would be the 1/2 the width of a standard miter gauge plus the radius of the largest cutter you envision using plus a 1/4" margin for safety.
Determine the exact width of the T bar track, lets say 1 1/4" for example. If you use a standard 1/2" straight bit and a 3/4" spacer between the router base and the fence you should end up with a dado that's 1 1/4" wide. First use the spacer to make a pass, then remove the spacer and make the second pass to complete the dado without changing the fence position, and therefore keeping the accuracy. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-29-2009 at 03:52 PM.
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post #5 of 19 Old 12-29-2009, 11:52 AM
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I know it seems pretty obvious but make sure your set back calculations allow your slot to clear the saw's fence rail on the left in your picture.
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post #6 of 19 Old 12-29-2009, 12:27 PM
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That method will give you a fence track...but, you may still need a sliding miter groove. Rick

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post #7 of 19 Old 12-29-2009, 03:55 PM
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I disagree Rick

It's parallel to the existing fence and away from the center hole by by 1/2 the width....etc. This is for the miter gauge slot/track unless I'm missing something? bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 19 Old 12-29-2009, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure I understand Pianoman's reply.

Yeah, so basically, I'm putting a dado in.. simple dado that will be used with a double t track mitre slot ... so I can use it for featherboards and a mitre guage, etc...

Thanks for pointing out to watch out for the tablesaw fence rails, I had already realized it, but it's a good point.

I was mainly concerned with chipping out the top with the dado.. The top is actually wrapped in a rubber like around the outside, I think i might cut that with a razor first.. might not want to hit that with a router bit..

Now I need to make an adjustable dado jig :-).. Projects within projects as everyone knows.

Once I get time to do this and it warms up a bit, I'll post follow up pictures.
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post #9 of 19 Old 12-29-2009, 06:00 PM
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I would also like to point out that looks like a 1" top, cutting into it all the way accross even at 1/2" may weaken and cause warpage in such a thin top. It may be the reason there isn't a slot there from the gitty up. May need to do some reinforcement from underneath.
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post #10 of 19 Old 12-30-2009, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Nate, That's a good point. Underneath is Oak, this is how it bolts to the rails for the table saw fence.. Here's a pic. Now you have my wondering..
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post #11 of 19 Old 12-30-2009, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate1778 View Post
I would also like to point out that looks like a 1" top, cutting into it all the way accross even at 1/2" may weaken and cause warpage in such a thin top. It may be the reason there isn't a slot there from the gitty up. May need to do some reinforcement from underneath.
Totally agree, Nate. The material used in those tables will certainly be unstable at 1/2" thick.

I'd be clamping feather boards, were it my table.
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post #12 of 19 Old 12-30-2009, 11:23 AM
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Make a jig if you want but

using the fence and a spacer is much easier, since the fence is already made and the spacer is easy to cut. JMO. bill
The math is the tough part, for me at least!
And definitely back up the material under the dado before you cut it.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #13 of 19 Old 12-30-2009, 12:04 PM
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Brad, in the picture...I see the slot in the fence, which is a good idea (in using a down pressure feather board) Now, if you want the same thing...on the table...using the same feather board to keep the work against the fence...also a good idea...and ,yes, you may need to support the underside of the table to keep it flat. I still think you need a groove for a miter gauge...which would aid in (end-grain routing) as in style/rail routing. Sorry if I miss understood. Rick

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post #14 of 19 Old 12-30-2009, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pianoman View Post
Brad, in the picture...I see the slot in the fence, which is a good idea (in using a down pressure feather board) Now, if you want the same thing...on the table...using the same feather board to keep the work against the fence...also a good idea...and ,yes, you may need to support the underside of the table to keep it flat. I still think you need a groove for a miter gauge...which would aid in (end-grain routing) as in style/rail routing. Sorry if I miss understood. Rick
I've never used a miter gauge on my router table. End grain cross cuts are accomplished with a home made sled that rides against the fence.
I don't know if I could even find a T track to fit my odd sized miter gauge bar.
I'm sure if I had a miter slot, I'd find uses for it, though.
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post #15 of 19 Old 12-30-2009, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.. I am starting to think if just clamping a featherboard to the top..

at that thickness I am really concerned now.. I think long term I need to just make a new top.. but that's for another day..

Also, I don't understand part of Gene's response

"I don't know if I could even find a T track to fit my odd sized miter gauge bar"

A t track and a mitre guage are two different things.. I was wanting to add both. In reality, all I need is a t track.. I don't need a mitre slot, because of the sled method described above, which in my honest opinion is better for end grain routing in every way..

I am also thinking of just using my t track bit I have, and routing a t track in without an aluminium one.. that way I would be taking the least possible out of my top. Also, before someone corrects me, I would first use a straight bit, and then follow that up with a t track bit.

As always, thanks for the responses.

Last edited by autoBrad; 12-30-2009 at 08:15 PM.
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post #16 of 19 Old 12-30-2009, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autoBrad View Post
Thanks for the replies.. I am starting to think if just clamping a featherboard to the top..

at that thickness I am really concerned now.. I think long term I need to just make a new top.. but that's for another day..

Also, I don't understand part of Gene's response

"I don't know if I could even find a T track to fit my odd sized miter gauge bar"

A t track and a mitre guage are two different things.. I was wanting to add both. In reality, all I need is a t track.. I don't need a mitre slot, because of the sled method described above, which in my honest opinion is better for end grain routing in every way..

I am also thinking of just using my t track bit I have, and routing a t track in without an aluminium one.. that way I would be taking the least possible out of my top. Also, before someone corrects me, I would first use a straight bit, and then follow that up with a t track bit.

As always, thanks for the responses.
Well, you know what they say about assumptions. I assumed the T track slot was to also accommodate a miter gauge. I know that's not possible.
Sorry for the confusion. I was just zeroing in on your first post when you referred to a "Miter slot".
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post #17 of 19 Old 01-03-2010, 12:25 AM
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Most of those "high pressure laminates" are simply Mdf sandwiched between two pieces of hard slick material like whats on countertops. High pressure simply refers to how the three pieces were glued together in a very heavy press.

Last edited by Colt W. Knight; 01-03-2010 at 11:54 AM.
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post #18 of 19 Old 01-03-2010, 11:36 AM
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miter slot

this is the table i use I don't see any need for me You can add a slot or what ever you want This table get me anything i want to router I use fences instead of niter slot's Depend's on what you are going to do with table I can do anything on mine here is the link Lots of other item's http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RT01--
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post #19 of 19 Old 01-03-2010, 09:51 PM
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I agree with Del on that one. Take a look at the oak park site, and you can see the videos of the bench. Its the table used by the PBS Router Workshop.
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