Why Not Wipe On Regular Poly? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-25-2018, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Why Not Wipe On Regular Poly?

I don't really know anything about 'finishing,' other than I can slap on a coat of paint on a shop jig. I'm making a face frame thing and want to put on some satin poly. I've heard about wipe on poly so I figured I'd give it a try... until I discovered the price of it, that is. It was double the price of regular fast drying poly for 1/2 the amount. To me, that makes it four times as expensive.


So why can't I just wipe on the fast drying poly?


PS: This is not a fine furniture thing...
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-25-2018, 02:32 PM
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Cause it's too thick mostly. Thin it 50/50 with mineral spirits and you've made wipe on poly. Quart of poly and a quart of mineral spirits will run about the same as the wipe on poly and you get more finish
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-25-2018, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoRails View Post
I don't really know anything about 'finishing,' other than I can slap on a coat of paint on a shop jig. I'm making a face frame thing and want to put on some satin poly. I've heard about wipe on poly so I figured I'd give it a try... until I discovered the price of it, that is. It was double the price of regular fast drying poly for 1/2 the amount. To me, that makes it four times as expensive.


So why can't I just wipe on the fast drying poly?


PS: This is not a fine furniture thing...
You could modify regular polyurethane to be wipe on but not the fast dry. To wipe on a finish you need slow dry. The regular poly dries faster than wipe on. The wipe on has a solvent such as Flood Penetrol in it to slow the drying time down. The wipe on is also thinned a little.

The reason for it is any time you wipe or brush a finish the method you apply the finish with makes grooves or other texture to the finish. If it is a slow drying finish if it stays wet on the surface long enough the grooves or texture will flow together eliminating the application marks.
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-26-2018, 01:49 PM
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I make my own wipe on poly and use it a lot.
I buy any gloss OIL BASED poly I can find (water based will not work)
i mix 5 parts poly with 4 parts white spirit or thinners (I normally use a teaspoon for a medium small amount)

I sand to 240 grit usually, 360 on special parts.
You can use a 1/4 of a heavy duty paper towel, or a scrap of clean cotton waste. (lint free).
Use vinyl gloves to save fingerprints.
Wipe on the poly generously, all over. Use another dry piece of cotton waste (old T shirts) to gently wipe off all excess in the same direction as the grain.

Leave it to air dry in a dust free area. I use a large lidded plastic box for mine. Normally 1 day before second coating.
Heat affects drying time. My temps vary from around 40F in winter to well over a 100 in high summer. In 100f even normal poly dries almost immediately. If I have a complicated box to wipe in high summer I have to put the box and the poly in an A/C room overnight cooled down to 75 or 80f.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-26-2018, 01:52 PM
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My signature does not seem to be showing the links to my boxes, so I've pasted here.
SunnyBob
my projects can be viewed here
http://www.pbase.com/john_cooper/bob...dwork_projects

and here
http://www.pbase.com/john_cooper/bob...s_pergola_extn
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-27-2018, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the handy tips and info Everyone!
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