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post #1 of 20 Old 11-11-2014, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Wax Over Poly

Are there any drawbacks to applying wax over a newly poly'd table? I think there will be enough protection with the (satin finish) poly, but I like the look of the wax on top. I suppose it would be a maintenance issue, needing to reapply periodically as the wax wears off. Any thoughts? I was thinking boston polish or briwax.
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post #2 of 20 Old 11-11-2014, 07:56 PM
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Are there any drawbacks to applying wax over a newly poly'd table? I think there will be enough protection with the (satin finish) poly, but I like the look of the wax on top. I suppose it would be a maintenance issue, needing to reapply periodically as the wax wears off. Any thoughts? I was thinking boston polish or briwax.
Yes, any finish should be allowed to fully cure before applying any wax. With polyurethane that would be about a month. There really isn't any benefit to using wax on polyurethane other than appearance. It is a plastic coating which doesn't need moisturizing from a wax.

I'm not familiar with boston polish. I am familiar with briwax and wouldn't recommend that. It's better used as a wax finish on bare wood. Personally if I were going to put anything on polyurethane it would be an automotive clearcoat safe polish.
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post #3 of 20 Old 11-12-2014, 02:06 AM
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Personally, i dont consider a project finished without a decent coat of wax on top. Its not strictly necessary on something like polyurethane, but i think that it really helps make the finish pop. In my experience it also help fill tiny imperfections you can find in a finish. Its a purely aesthetic thing, but it only takes a few minutes and makes a difference. Id give the poly time to cure and slap on a coat. Cant hurt after all

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post #4 of 20 Old 11-12-2014, 10:51 AM
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I recommend not using a wax over an oil based finish if the surface will get hot or cold items applied. Waxed surfaces will get white or gray rings. Poly is quite durable finish and does not need any additional protection.

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post #5 of 20 Old 11-12-2014, 12:25 PM
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I agree with Howard, you dont really need a wax over poly. Wax looks better over lacquer.
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post #6 of 20 Old 11-12-2014, 08:07 PM
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There isn't any real benefit to using wax on polyurethane however if you allow it to cure there isn't any reason you can't use it. People use waxes and polishes all the time. I don't even mind the aerosol polishes that contain silicone. Sometimes the polish gets a ring on it but you can take a wax and grease remover and clean it off and start over.
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post #7 of 20 Old 11-15-2014, 02:30 AM
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Check out some stuff called Polyvine. Its a poly based finish that gives the feel of wax. You should be able to go over you poly with this w/o and issues.

http://us.polyvine.com/index.php?lang=en-US
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post #8 of 20 Old 11-15-2014, 07:21 AM
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Check out some stuff called Polyvine. Its a poly based finish that gives the feel of wax. You should be able to go over you poly with this w/o and issues.

http://us.polyvine.com/index.php?lang=en-US
I think I would have to find out what's in it. Years ago Gemini had a lacquer that was suppose to give the feel of wax. By the time I got around to trying it they discontinued it. I made comment that it sounded like something I really wanted to use and the guy at Gemini told me it was a 50/50 mixture of their regular lacquer and sanding sealer. It was just the stearates in the sealer that gave a wax feel to the finish and at the same time made the finish softer and easier to damage. Must be why they discontinued it.
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post #9 of 20 Old 11-15-2014, 09:14 AM
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Steve,

I bought some and only used it once. I built a coat/shoe rack out of pirana pine. I just used a couple of coats. So far I havent heard anything about it failing. But then I built it just a couple of months ago. Ill definitely find out by the end of winter here. Im building a plant stand Im going to use it for that. Ill find out soon enough how well it holds up. :>D
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post #10 of 20 Old 11-15-2014, 09:25 AM
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Steve,

I bought some and only used it once. I built a coat/shoe rack out of pirana pine. I just used a couple of coats. So far I havent heard anything about it failing. But then I built it just a couple of months ago. Ill definitely find out by the end of winter here. Im building a plant stand Im going to use it for that. Ill find out soon enough how well it holds up. :>D
It sounds real good. It would be interesting to find out how it wears compared to other finishes.
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post #11 of 20 Old 11-15-2014, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by sancho View Post
Check out some stuff called Polyvine. Its a poly based finish that gives the feel of wax. You should be able to go over you poly with this w/o and issues.

http://us.polyvine.com/index.php?lang=en-US
Which one did you use??

Polyvine's "Wax Finish Varnish" is a water base acrylic.
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post #12 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 02:24 AM
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Which one did you use??

Polyvine's "Wax Finish Varnish" is a water base acrylic.
Thats the one. It does give a wax feel to it. I brushed it on, sanded then wiped on the 2nd coat.

I just posted a photo of the coat rack finished with the polyvine

Last edited by sancho; 11-16-2014 at 04:01 AM.
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post #13 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 07:45 AM
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The finish has a wax feel to it because wax is an ingredient in the finish. I'm not sure I like the idea. I normally don't like to introduce wax to a finish before it fully cures.
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post #14 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 08:26 AM
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I dunno Steve whats in it :>D. Ive tried it and Im going to see how it holds up. I use wax on a lot of things. never over a poly, usually just wax over bare wood. Though some say I should be going over a sealer.

hey Steve,

I looked at your photos, I really like the clocks. Ive been looking at old clocks. I can get the ones from the 20's and 30's fairly cheap. I just picked up a 20s-30s mantle clock. It has a nice hand cut inlay, I paid about $60 bucks for it. What made it cool was that it was made in Tokyo. I have no idea how it ended up in the UK. but the old girls is ticking away. Now Im looking for wall clocks.

Last edited by sancho; 11-16-2014 at 08:30 AM.
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post #15 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 09:15 AM
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I dunno Steve whats in it :>D. Ive tried it and Im going to see how it holds up. I use wax on a lot of things. never over a poly, usually just wax over bare wood. Though some say I should be going over a sealer.

hey Steve,

I looked at your photos, I really like the clocks. Ive been looking at old clocks. I can get the ones from the 20's and 30's fairly cheap. I just picked up a 20s-30s mantle clock. It has a nice hand cut inlay, I paid about $60 bucks for it. What made it cool was that it was made in Tokyo. I have no idea how it ended up in the UK. but the old girls is ticking away. Now Im looking for wall clocks.
I looked up the MSDS on the finish and it listed in the ingredients waxes however it didn't specify the specific wax.

About the clocks, the one sitting on my shaper I made earlier this year to give to a cousin of mine however I never could reach her on the phone when I was in her state so she didn't get it. I bought a cheap chinese made clock off ebay for the movement and tried it for a couple of weeks and seem to work fine. The steeple clock was a project I made in my junior year of high school. For the movement I used one of those old clocks like you are describing and then bought another old movement. In the 43 years I've had it, it's never been usable as a clock. In fact right now I have it packed away in a warehouse. I've had a couple different people work on the first movement but no luck. I just need to find a better mechanic. The grandmother clock I made in my senior year of high school. For the movement I ordered one through the mail and it never worked very good. I could get it to run a couple weeks at a time and it would stop. I had it worked on and it got worse. I tinkered with it for about 10 years and gave up. About 20 years ago I bought a new movement for it and that one worked.
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post #16 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 09:39 AM
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Thats the one. It does give a wax feel to it. I brushed it on, sanded then wiped on the 2nd coat.

I just posted a photo of the coat rack finished with the polyvine
I thought so, thats pretty good stuff.

We had a guy from Sayerlack in Italy come over and he had shipped a bottle to our lab for us to try. You can actually mix it with chalk paint (thats what it was originally intended for) and it works great. Many people use it in combination with latex paint. They thin it out with the polyvine instead of water which not only thins the paint, but gives them a protective coat while at the same time giving them a washed out look on wood for a distressed look. You can even go back and buff it up simply by using 0000 steel wool.
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post #17 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 12:09 PM
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I looked up the MSDS on the finish and it listed in the ingredients waxes however it didn't specify the specific wax.

About the clocks, the one sitting on my shaper I made earlier this year to give to a cousin of mine however I never could reach her on the phone when I was in her state so she didn't get it. I bought a cheap chinese made clock off ebay for the movement and tried it for a couple of weeks and seem to work fine. The steeple clock was a project I made in my junior year of high school. For the movement I used one of those old clocks like you are describing and then bought another old movement. In the 43 years I've had it, it's never been usable as a clock. In fact right now I have it packed away in a warehouse. I've had a couple different people work on the first movement but no luck. I just need to find a better mechanic. The grandmother clock I made in my senior year of high school. For the movement I ordered one through the mail and it never worked very good. I could get it to run a couple weeks at a time and it would stop. I had it worked on and it got worse. I tinkered with it for about 10 years and gave up. About 20 years ago I bought a new movement for it and that one worked.
wow you made those??? They really are beautiful. Have you checked out http://www.klockit.com

They sell clock parts. Maybe you can find something there that will work. They really are to nice to be sitting around and not doing something.

heres one Ive been checking out. If its still available, Im going to go check it out next weekend

http://www.gumtree.com/p/mirrors-clo...que/1088179501
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post #18 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I looked up the MSDS on the finish and it listed in the ingredients waxes however it didn't specify the specific wax.

About the clocks, the one sitting on my shaper I made earlier this year to give to a cousin of mine however I never could reach her on the phone when I was in her state so she didn't get it. I bought a cheap chinese made clock off ebay for the movement and tried it for a couple of weeks and seem to work fine. The steeple clock was a project I made in my junior year of high school. For the movement I used one of those old clocks like you are describing and then bought another old movement. In the 43 years I've had it, it's never been usable as a clock. In fact right now I have it packed away in a warehouse. I've had a couple different people work on the first movement but no luck. I just need to find a better mechanic. The grandmother clock I made in my senior year of high school. For the movement I ordered one through the mail and it never worked very good. I could get it to run a couple weeks at a time and it would stop. I had it worked on and it got worse. I tinkered with it for about 10 years and gave up. About 20 years ago I bought a new movement for it and that one worked.
wow you made those??? They really are beautiful. Have you checked out http://www.klockit.com

They sell clock parts. Maybe you can find something there that will work. They really are to nice to be sitting around and not doing something.

heres one Ive been checking out. If its still available, Im going to go check it out next weekend

http://www.gumtree.com/p/mirrors-clo...que/1088179501
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post #19 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 12:27 PM
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I thought so, thats pretty good stuff.

We had a guy from Sayerlack in Italy come over and he had shipped a bottle to our lab for us to try. You can actually mix it with chalk paint (thats what it was originally intended for) and it works great. Many people use it in combination with latex paint. They thin it out with the polyvine instead of water which not only thins the paint, but gives them a protective coat while at the same time giving them a washed out look on wood for a distressed look. You can even go back and buff it up simply by using 0000 steel wool.
Thats some good info. I learned about this stuff while I was traveling for the job. I was in OXford and I found a woodworking store on line that looked interesting. So I was walking around and some guy was checking out the general finishes stuff.(which is hard to find here). I was interested in learning about wax finishes.
So this guy told me he was a chippy (carpenter) and told me about the polyvine. he said i would like it and it gives a authetic wax feel to the finish.

Anyway thats how I found out about it. I ordered some on line and have been trying it out.
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post #20 of 20 Old 11-16-2014, 01:20 PM
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wow you made those??? They really are beautiful. Have you checked out http://www.klockit.com

They sell clock parts. Maybe you can find something there that will work. They really are to nice to be sitting around and not doing something.

heres one Ive been checking out. If its still available, Im going to go check it out next weekend

http://www.gumtree.com/p/mirrors-clo...que/1088179501
Yes, I made everything in that album. I did look at klockit when I was building the clock for my cousin. I found it confusing because you buy the movement and the face separately and I never could figure out which went with what so I just bought a complete clock to get the movement. I think the complete clock was under a hundred bucks with shipping and it seems to be a pretty good mechanical movement. The case it was in was very junky. Over the course of working on that clock I managed to drop it on the floor with the movement in it. It wouldn't run after that and I found someone to work on it but he was backed up for months and couldn't get to it. He did give me some tips on how to fix it and I managed to get it going. I had doubts if I could do it so I bought another clock so I have another new movement I need to make a clock for. It won't fit the steeple clock though. The steeple clock I have an antique face for it and if I put another movement in it I need a movement to match the face. More than likely when I get around to dealing with it I will take the movement to the guy that was backed up.

I think I found the clock I used. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kassel-15-Da...item4d27f75ce7
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