Walnut finish update - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 01-28-2018, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Walnut finish update

I had posted about a walnut topped bass guitar which has little effect of absorbing stain and later I had tried using Danish oil finish. The later while having some effect on the color is still far too light in color and trying to achieve a darker brown finish. I am sure I
should be able to achieve a darker tone and am posting the color I have achieved and later one of the color value I want. I had originally had used a water based pore filler ( Aquacoat) but after sanding and using cleaners from Lacquer thinner to acetone and feel the wood should be free of this. The walnut is a laminate and had been done by a top guitar body maker ( Warmoth). Any tips or input as how to darking this walnut would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 6 Old 01-28-2018, 10:03 PM
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If Iím not mistaken, the top picture shows a faux grain that looks like burl. I think it was done with a sponge and dark stain.
Remember the Watco finishes come in many Walnut colors.
Your finish appears to be Light Walnut.
They also make Dark Walnut and a Black Walnut.
If you leave the finish in place and use a sponge to dab Black Walnut over the top, I think you can almost duplicate the look of the top picture.
Warm the Watco before starting on a dry finish. Allow to dry in a warm room.
After thoroughly dry, this will need a top coat to lock down.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-30-2018, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Unable to get wood to accept stain or dye

I have been trying to elaborate that the Walnut I have will not accept the darker color from dye or stain in this and the previous post with no response. I am sure with
a good piece of wood it will. The surrounding ash on the body soaks up the stain I have tried. The top is a
laminate of American walnut and wonder if the wood or the pore filler might have the wood pores closed.
Any input of how to clean this to accept the stain or dye ?
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-30-2018, 09:22 AM
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Did you sand the wood again after applying the pore filler? There is a binder in the pore filler which can easily seal the wood making it difficult to stain and if the wood isn't sanded it's as though it has a coat of varnish on it. A dye is a different story. If you would use this dye you could almost stain a sheet of glass. http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=178
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-30-2018, 12:50 PM
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Since youíve prepped the guitar for the finish, sealed it with grain filler etc, if the finish is now extremely smooth and you only want to darken it, itís time to apply a Toner. Toners can be purchased in rattle cans are easy to apply. The key is to mist spray it, very, very lightly until you get the darker shade youíre looking for. If you donít like the look, just wipe it off and start again. Buy one or two dark Toners and see if you can get the look your after. After thoroughly dry, the instrument will still need a final clear finish. Maybe as many as 4 top coats of clear.
Toners donít soak into the wood. They lay on top like a colored lacquer.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 6 Old 01-30-2018, 04:11 PM
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When I did this many moons (30 years+) ago, I used to make non penetrating stain by mixing leather dye into my clear lacquer. I had a whole shelf full of pigments which were liquid and blended well with the lacquer. More coats made for a darker finish. I did a lot of sunburst finishes on electric and acoustic guitars as well as single colors. There was pretty much no limit.
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