Walnut finish - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-24-2017, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Walnut finish

I am finishing a nice bass guitar with a walnut top. I am not interested in oils but a poly based finish however I am looking for a warm glowing look and color rather
than the straight application of just poly. I have read
of others applying dyes and stains at different parts of
the pre finish stage and would like to get that process
to have the deep color finish I have seen with others.
One had applied stain and later another dye top coat.
Any input would be great.

Thanks
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post #2 of 6 Old 08-24-2017, 08:47 AM
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If it were me I would just finish the guitar with lacquer without stain. The finish has to be sprayed but if you have compressed air a cheap harbor freight sprayer will do the job just fine. You could wipe the guitar with a wet rag to see what the color would look like with just a clear on it. The water will raise the grain but a little sanding with some 220 grit paper will fix that.

Dyes are not that colorfast. If you do wish a stain you would get a richer more lasting color by using an oil stain, (not Minwax). Minwax stain may look nice when new but is more of a dye than a stain.
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-24-2017, 09:23 AM
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Many ways to use poly my friend. And with a project that's going to be handled a lot. you want a minimum of four coats. Being a Guitar I might even put five on it. Cut you're poly 60% Poly to 40% clear odorless mineral spirits. You want thin coats, applied with a handled spunge. Flick you're lighter over bubbles and they disappear. Put the first coat on, and 1.5 hrs later do the second. Let dry for 24hrs. Sand the whole applied surface with 320 grit. Until you can feel no ridges or bumbs. Don't use you're eye's, use you're fingers. Try not to penetrate the finish, you're only trying to smooth the surface coat. Blow off the piece and then wipe it down with crème mineral spirits. Let it dry for an hour.
Put you're third and fourth coat on, the same as the first two. Let dry 24 hours. Repeat the sanding process using 400 grit. Blow and wipe it. Let dry. Then apply you're final coat. Don't touch it for 72 hours.


This is what you're results should look like.
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-27-2017, 03:13 PM
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I made a stain once from walnut husks that looked really cool on walnut. It seemed like a natural match. Other than that, I'd probably never use stain on walnut.

I think you'll have trouble getting an instrument quality finish if you're brushing poly. I think you can get a decent look using lacquer in rattle cans from Stewmac. Seal with the Vinyl Sealer, then a four - 6 coats of gloss, then finish with a couple of coats of satin to get the glow you want.

Make sure to pay attention to the warnings, wear a mask and use adequate ventilation.


http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and...iABEgLygvD_BwE
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-27-2017, 03:45 PM
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Some of us maybe better then others brushing poly. It's all in how it's done. And the care one puts in the work. But everyones entitled to an opinion.
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-28-2017, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
If it were me I would just finish the guitar with lacquer without stain. The finish has to be sprayed but if you have compressed air a cheap harbor freight sprayer will do the job just fine. You could wipe the guitar with a wet rag to see what the color would look like with just a clear on it. The water will raise the grain but a little sanding with some 220 grit paper will fix that.

Dyes are not that colorfast. If you do wish a stain you would get a richer more lasting color by using an oil stain, (not Minwax). Minwax stain may look nice when new but is more of a dye than a stain.
Absolutely agree. I have built several walnut pieces from jewelry boxes to chest of drawers size. Each of those has no other finish other than lacquer.

George
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