Utterly confused about glazing - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 09-16-2018, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Utterly confused about glazing

I've stained wood in the past, and it was straightforward. Sand, stain, wipe off excess, repeat as necessary. But it's not clear to me how to glaze. I read that wood must be "sealed" before glazing. Sealed with WHAT? Another stain? But I want to keep the color of the glaze, so how do I avoid having the stain alter the color of the glaze? Use something clear such as polyurethane? Can I apply a glaze over DRY polyurethane? Please help.
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-16-2018, 03:17 AM
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When you "stain", the wood absorbs the stain and is colored in that manner. A "glaze", however, is applied BETWEEN layers of a finish. So the color presented by the glaze is not impregnated into the wood. So you would apply a first finish coat (sand-n-seal, poly, whatever), then apply your glaze, then apply your final coat(s) of finish.

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Casey
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post #3 of 6 Old 09-16-2018, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert3750 View Post
I've stained wood in the past, and it was straightforward. Sand, stain, wipe off excess, repeat as necessary. But it's not clear to me how to glaze. I read that wood must be "sealed" before glazing. Sealed with WHAT? Another stain? But I want to keep the color of the glaze, so how do I avoid having the stain alter the color of the glaze? Use something clear such as polyurethane? Can I apply a glaze over DRY polyurethane? Please help.
It comes down to adhesion. A wood stain is mostly pigment with a little linseed oil and thinned with mineral spirits. The reason you wipe it off is there isn't enough linseed oil in the stain to bond it to the wood. If you just brushed on stain and let it dry when you put a finish over the top the finish would bond to the stain instead of the wood and peal off. You certainly couldn't put a wood stain over the top of a varnish.

Glaze is formulated with hardening oils in it that allow it to adhere to the surface. It's closer to enamel paint than stain. A glaze is used mostly as a accent where you apply it like on a cabinet door and wipe off the excess leaving color in the grooves of the moldings. It can also be used to do wood graining where the brush wipes off the glaze in places to simulate the light and dark colors of natural wood. Now if you used a glaze on raw wood the pigments contained in it would stain the wood so it wouldn't work as designed. The wood must be sealed first so it wipes off completely where desired. What ever you are using to finish the project you can use under the glaze. It's important to get enough finish on the wood it's completely smooth and be finished or ready for the finished coat. Once the glaze is applied and dried the finish is done. On a stained door where you use glaze sometimes because the glaze has a different sheen you might need to put a coat of varnish over the whole thing.
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post #4 of 6 Old 09-16-2018, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks very much for your help, guys. I took another look at what I plan to use, and it appears that the use of the word "glaze" refers to the color ("cinnamon glaze"). It is indeed a stain. So I should be ok.
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post #5 of 6 Old 09-22-2018, 09:23 PM
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You need to seal the wood with some sort of top coat. What type of top coat are you using. Most of the time you can use your final top coat as the sealer. Just make sure the wood is sealed and dry. If not sealed all the way, the glaze can get to the stain. Make sure the sealer is dried, or again, the glaze could work itself into the sealer and ruin the look you want.

If you a brushing all of your top coats, make sure the glaze is completely dry. If the glaze is not dry you will easily pull up the glaze. If you are brushing, put the first top coat on very thin and VERY quick. This will protect the glaze enough for you to get the mils you need to protect the piece.

Good luck!
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-22-2018, 09:31 PM
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Steve is a smart man and understands chemical make up, bonding issues etc.

Pretty much what Steve is saying is that glaze is thinned down stain or paint. Depending on what the carrier is depends on what you can thin the glaze down with. I also make toner out of glaze or stain by thinning down even more with lacquer thinner and spray it. Saves a tone of money and make the toner lighter or darker.

It is best to understand what the carrier is with your stain, glaze and top coat. (Water, oil, alcohol, lacquer etc...) Try to stay with the same family. Not always necessary but good advice.

Again, good luck!
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