URGENT HELP PLEASE ! used satin finish oil polyurethane to pine flooring - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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URGENT HELP PLEASE ! used satin finish oil polyurethane to pine flooring

about fourteen hours ago. went to lightly sand for next coat and i don't like what i'm seeing. some is a little tacky and stuck to the sand paper. other spot is dry but looks like i'm ripping up plastic. it is not a smooth sanding, its spotty..... is it really necessary to sand between coats? All I have is 220 paper to use. Time is of the essense, can i just go ahead and apply another coat? New to this, only issue I see is that I can tell where start and stop applications are as these are a little grayer, like lines.... actually looks kinda dirty. Will this go away? I'm going for coffee, hope someone can help soon. I only have today to work on this........
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post #2 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 01:18 PM
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Sorry you're having trouble Brenda.... but a little more information is required before any diagnosis can be made on what's going on and then any recommendations.
  1. First off, what type of flooring are you finishing?
  2. Is this the first time finishing or is it a rehab of some sort?
  3. If a re-finish, did you completely strip the previous finish?
  4. Did you stain the floor? If so, what kind of stain did you use?
  5. Did you use any type of sealer over your stain prior to your oil based poly?
  6. What type/brand of poly are you using?
  7. How long did the previous coat of poly have to dry before you started to sand?
  8. What type of sanding equipment are you using?
Hopefully, if you can answer some/all of these questions, we can determine what's happening with your floor. I've got to warn you up front though.... it may not be something where you snap your fingers and it's fixed. It "may" take a bit of time and patience. We'll see though.
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post #3 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 01:21 PM
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post #4 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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oh thank you, i am almost in tears

i put in a pine tongue and groove 3 1/2 in wide pieces. New wood, no staining, just the oil base polyurethane wood varnish (Majic brand from Grossmans outlet)put it on last night by brush, a good 14-15 hours ago. Sanding, i thought, would be a simple go over. Is it possible that the floor may not be perfectlylevel and that is why its stripping it up. Looks like plastic but some spots are gummy. Any advise would be appreciated. i don't know what is normal because never worked with polyurethane before. (picked a good beginner project, eh?)
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by brenda o View Post
i put in a pine tongue and groove 3 1/2 in wide pieces. New wood, no staining, just the oil base polyurethane wood varnish (Majic brand from Grossmans outlet)put it on last night by brush, a good 14-15 hours ago. Sanding, i thought, would be a simple go over. Is it possible that the floor may not be perfectlylevel and that is why its stripping it up. Looks like plastic but some spots are gummy. Any advise would be appreciated. i don't know what is normal because never worked with polyurethane before. (picked a good beginner project, eh?)
Not sure about that particular polyurethane. I've never heard of the brand before. Some poly's require a full 24 hours before sanding and recoating. I'm guessing you just used it straight from the can? If so, a LOT of poly's are kind of thick and have long dry times. I always find that thinning poly down 70/30 with mineral spirits, it will flow out better (level itself) and flash off quicker (dry). I've even thinned down to 50/50 with poly on the last coat or two to get a really fine finish.

Are you hand sanding or are you power sanding? If power sanding.... what are you using?
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 01:41 PM
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There should be a drying time before sanding listed on the cans directions. What does it say? Keep in mind this is also determined by temperature, colder temperatures than 68 degrees will require longer dry times. Most urethanes have a 24 hour dry time but there are fast drying versions. I am not familiar with yours. The problems you are having sanding sound consistent with urethane that is not completely dry.
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick Mosher
The problems you are having sanding does sound consistent with urethane that is not completely dry.
I agree with completely with Rick....

Is that brand name spelled right? I can't seem to find anything on it.... I'd like to look it up and read the spec sheet on it for you, but I need you to check the spelling or look for the actual manufacturer somewhere on the back of the can.

Last edited by JW_in_Indy; 12-06-2009 at 01:43 PM.
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post #8 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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thanks all, all good info, and the brand is from Grossman's Outlet

drying time said 12 hours but i have since been on the phone and talked through the issues, yep, need mineral spirits, more drying time, all of the above. Isn't as bad as I thought:)
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-06-2009, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by brenda o View Post
.... Time is of the essense........ I only have today to work on this........
Unfortunately, the above statements will get you in trouble more often than not. Chemicals dont have the same priorities you have and generally, you just cant rush the stuff. On the lighter side, I'm glad to hear all will be OK. It sounded like a drying time issue.
It sure would be nice if you filled out your profile because knowing your skill level and geographical location has a large part to do with how quickly you get responses with less questions from people trying to help.

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Retired woodworker, amongst other things, Sold full time cruising boat and now full time cruising in RV. Currently in Somerville, Tx
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-07-2009, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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time is of the essence

yep, so true Tony! Good advice and thanks to Jim for the hands on call. I am very grateful! The second coat was put on today and will take my time, wait it out for the third. It does look nice:) Also, the tip Jim gave about the brushing against the grain and then with was awesome, saved time and went much more smoothly! Again THANK-YOU!
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post #11 of 14 Old 12-10-2009, 09:52 PM
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Need help in selecting type flooring....

This is my 1st message to "woodworkingtalk.com" members... I am thinking about installing new flooring in my family room 1/1/10.. I would like to know if anyone has ever used knotty red pine on the floor in place of Oak.. I perfer the width of 8" instead of 2 1/2" oak plus the cost would be about half. Is it to soft to use on the floor??? What do you suggest?? I plan on butting the boards together and not using T/G boards.. Plain on both sides. Should I use T/G?? Thanks softwood1

Last edited by softwood1; 12-10-2009 at 10:23 PM.
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post #12 of 14 Old 12-11-2009, 12:52 AM
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This is my 1st message to "woodworkingtalk.com" members... I am thinking about installing new flooring in my family room 1/1/10.. I would like to know if anyone has ever used knotty red pine on the floor in place of Oak.. I perfer the width of 8" instead of 2 1/2" oak plus the cost would be about half. Is it to soft to use on the floor??? What do you suggest?? I plan on butting the boards together and not using T/G boards.. Plain on both sides. Should I use T/G?? Thanks softwood1
I think you are looking at this all wrong. IMHO you are letting $$$ dictate your thinking without considering the consequences. First off, most Pine today is fairly soft. I could see it as a sub floor maybe, but not as a final floor. And the whole reason for T/G in flooring is for the expansion and contraction of the floor. If you just butt it together, you are asking for all kinds of problems IMHO. One other thing to consider (again, IMHO) is that a floor made up of smaller face boards will be stronger and more resistant to marring and scuffing than one made up of wider face boards.

If a true hardwood floor is out of the budget, why not look at some of the laminates? They are getting pretty good and look almost as good as the real thing these days.
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-11-2009, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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using the pine

i recently used 3 and 1/2 inch pine t&G and have finished it. Three coats of oil polyurethane and i'm liking it! yes, the pine is a softer wood, i also had to butt the ends together but it does look nice. when putting it in, i had a few dings, but can sand them out for themost part. they call that character:) the finish is what is going to make it durable and protect it from most dings anyway. i don't mind if its perfect anyway. one person told me that i should go for what i like, i mean why do they have it for use if its not used....right? the cost is less, i preferred real wood over the laminate regardless of the softness. the poly is holding up fine, but again,,,, i just finished mine. check some videos and peoples examples, some are really nicellll do what u like:)
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post #14 of 14 Old 12-12-2009, 10:37 AM
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No finish is going to help the fact that the janka rating on pine is only half that of red oak. Furniture will eventually leave track marks when it gets moved around for cleaning. I have installed plenty of floors and I will be the first to say that I even red oak dents easily. I prefer to inform the customer about this beforehand and suggest that they go with white oak if they have big dogs. There's nothing worse than getting a call from a customer whose ticked because their retriever has ruined their new floor. I'm not talking about scratches in the finish, but actual indented grooves from their claws sliding on the floor.

Last edited by Julian the woodnut; 12-12-2009 at 10:39 AM.
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