Stripper action - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-09-2016, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Stripper action

Couldn't think of a better title, sorry.

To get to the point I picked up a used rocking chair for real cheap, and although there was nothing wrong with it, I had hopes of re-finishing it to look like something I'd be proud to own (And partly to prove to the wife that a goodwill find can be made to look nice, with a little elbow grease.)

The plan/hope was to strip it, do minor reshaping, and give it a nice oil rubbed finish.

I am using citrus stripper, which I have grown to like for paint removal. However the cheap finish that came on the chair is proving very difficult to remove. (I'm thinking now of just painting the darn thing! I hate that thought but I really want to get this chair in use)

So here are some questions...Is their a better stripper to remove what I think was a lacquer, than my current citrus stripper?

Is their an easy way of doing this (stripping the chair), or is it really all about "elbow grease"?

Is their any "easy" way to disassemble a chair into its parts that is probably glued at every joint? (I'm guessing No. But had to ask)

For what its worth, I have coated the whole chair w/the stripper and waited over night to remove the goop...it only removed a small amount. Now I'm trying to focus on a couple of parts at a time, still only removes a low percentage...its going to take forever at this rate.

Its kind of important to make it look good just to "win" over the wife, if not I'll never hear the end of it...
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-09-2016, 10:18 PM
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Well, I can't stand Citristrip. I bought some one time to use in a customers house that was sensitive to the fumes and ended up throwing it away. If it's a varnish type finish then Kleen Strip remover will work well on it. If it's lacquer then Strypeeze remover works better. With any remover let the remover do the work. Keep the remover wet until you are sure the finish is going to come off clean. Once you start scraping work as fast as you can because the finish will try to dry back on. Then rinse the remover off with lacquer thinner or if you have on use a power washer. The pressure needs to be turned down to about 1200 psi for wood to prevent damage.

When it dries if it has more than a spot or two the finish didn't come clean strip it again. Don't try to sand the rest of it off. Some of the finish is soaked into the wood and it's just as important to get what has penetrated.
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-10-2016, 07:50 AM
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I now use Super Strip and I am very pleased.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...og/superstrip/
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-10-2016, 10:02 AM
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Where is the striper action?
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-10-2016, 04:27 PM
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I got filled with anticipation at the title. Thought it might be a youtube video.
OK, thanks for those who shared their experience with finish removers for different finishes.
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A diamond is how coal reacts under pressure.
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-10-2016, 07:43 PM
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Go swipe some clear plastic wrap out of your wife's drawers.After you've gone to the stripper,wrap the ensuing wood with the above.It helps to maintain the strength of the stripper...otherwise any value,chemically speaking,is lost.
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-11-2016, 04:48 AM
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Stripper action

Find your self a shop For pros get the good stuff, use it in a well ventilated area were PPE. Try to get a paste / thick stripper that will stay on vertical areas.

Hint, your not gonna find it at the home dildo or blows .....
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-11-2016, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sancho View Post
Find your self a shop For pros get the good stuff, use it in a well ventilated area were PPE. Try to get a paste / thick stripper that will stay on vertical areas.

Hint, your not gonna find it at the home dildo or blows .....
You can find a good semi-paste remover at the box stores and even Walmart. Kleen Strip remover is very nearly the same strength as a commercial remover.

I never could see why they made a watery remover for the DIY. A watery remover is really only good for someone that has a strip tank.
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-11-2016, 10:11 AM
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BWS, never thought of using the plastic wrap to keep the remover from "weakening."

A diamond is how coal reacts under pressure.
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-11-2016, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mat 60
Where is the striper action?
I was extremely disappointed when I realized this thread was about removing finish....

Mark

Mark

"Measuring is the enemy of accuracy." Chris Schwartz
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-11-2016, 11:10 AM
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I was extremely disappointed when I realized this thread was about removing finish....

Mark
If it wasn't, it would be about removing members. :smile3:
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-11-2016, 06:22 PM
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I've heard the most prevalent stripper action among other things is removing money from the audience.
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-12-2016, 09:34 AM
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Just reading your article solved my problem. New to woodworking, and these discussions help. Thanks for the info
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-12-2016, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the tips...
What I ended up doing was to apply the same stripper to small sections, wait 30-45 minutes and scrape away. It was slow, had a few re-do's, but that seemed to work...so the answer was good old hard work! I was hoping for an easy way out, but its coming along pretty nice, still has a way to go, but I'll be rocking on the porch soon.

Where I went wrong the first time was coating the whole chair (well, most of it), I just couldn't get to it all before it dried, taking it a couple pieces at a time was smarter (Removing paint from past projects worked well in larger coverings).
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