stains for spray guns - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-02-2012, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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stains for spray guns

Hi, I am new to the forum:

1. I have a few tables to refinish. I am going to buy a HVLP spray gun. I read in another thread here that you should avoid oil based stains when spraying the stain. I thought oil based stains were better though.

2. I have also read elsewhere that a lot of woodworkers prefer to use a mixture of denatured alcohol with stain. Any thoughts on this and which kind of stain one needs to use with it.

3. I have looked at cabot's, minwax, and varathane stains. I have not heard real good reviews for these. Any suggestions on certain brands to use and where I might be able to get them.

4. I think I am going to use zinsser clear shellac as a sealer/wood conditioner. Any recommendations on a poly to spray on after stains.

5. The nozzle on the spray gun I am looking at has a 1.4mm nozzle. Will that be fine for refinishing.

Thanks,
Steve
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-02-2012, 08:26 PM
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Do you mean stain or dye? What kind of wood are you using? Why topcoat with Poly? IMHO it looks plastic. There is a host of things that need to be known before anyone can advise you.
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-02-2012, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Is dye what is used with denatured alcohol? I will be refinishing 1 table with old pine and 2 pieces that are oak. What else do you need to know?
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-02-2012, 09:33 PM
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1. I prefer oils stains and believe they last longer than dyes or water based stains. As far as
spraying the stain, I spray them more than any other means of application. It actually uses less
stain to spray the stain than to brush it or dip the parts.


2. The stain that you would mix alcohol with would be an aniline dye. Aniline dyes, depending on the
product can be mixed with either water or alcohol or both. Some come as powders and some are
premixed. I primarily use a NGR (non grain raising) stain from Mohawk finishing products. It is a

pre-mixed alcohol based aniline dye that I use with oil stains to make final adjustments on color.
Basically the product is an ink.


3. I have only used Minwax stain out of the three you have listed. There was a guy here once that
was a second generation finisher that pointed out that Minwax stain was bad to fade over time.

At the time I was using Minwax and liked it. Rather than dismissing what he said I got to looking
around at things I had built 10 to 15 years ago and noticed he was absolutely right. The furniture
and cabinets I had build were substantially lighter than it was when I built it. He recommended
Sherwin Williams stains so I have using them ever since.

4. Zinsser clear shellac could work for a sealer if you are not topcoating with polyurethane. For use
with oil base polyurethane you should use a de-waxed shellac. Personally I don't use any sealer
with polyurethane. I just thin the polyurethane a little more than normal for the first coat. I
like Sherwin Williams interior oil based polyurethane for cabinets and furniture.


5. The 1.4mm nozzle would work alright for wood finishes. Personally I don't like a HVLP sprayer and
almost wish I hadn't bought one. They come in handy when you use some high dollar automotive

finishes where you are trying to use every drop. A conventional gun will take a couple of ounces
in the cup to make it work. I find a conventional sprayer much more convenient for wood
finishes. You don't have to carry around a special stand to put the gun up. You can just unplug
it and set it on the table.

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post #5 of 8 Old 09-02-2012, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-03-2012, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [COLOR=black
You don't have to carry around a special stand to put the gun up. You can just unplug
it and set it on the table.
[/COLOR]
Steve, You need to look into 3M PPS or Devilbiss DeKups systems.
You attach an adapter to your gravity cup attach the plastic sealed cup and purge the air from the cup. You then have a sealed system that will spray upside down and that you can safely lay on a bench. It also won't drip on anything you're spraying.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-04-2012, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Mosher View Post
Steve, You need to look into 3M PPS or Devilbiss DeKups systems.
You attach an adapter to your gravity cup attach the plastic sealed cup and purge the air from the cup. You then have a sealed system that will spray upside down and that you can safely lay on a bench. It also won't drip on anything you're spraying.
Those are really cool systems. Do you know if they are compatible with with other brands?
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-04-2012, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post


3. I have only used Minwax stain out of the three you have listed. There was a guy here once that
was a second generation finisher that pointed out that Minwax stain was bad to fade over time.

At the time I was using Minwax and liked it. Rather than dismissing what he said I got to looking
around at things I had built 10 to 15 years ago and noticed he was absolutely right. The furniture
and cabinets I had build were substantially lighter than it was when I built it. He recommended
Sherwin Williams stains so I have using them ever since.


Making a drastic and immediate change in finishing materials based on one persons opinion (and it doesn't matter who), and how a finish that old appears, is foolish, IMO. There are many factors that can account for a different appearance, other than a product that's claimed to be substandard.

There is likely many users of the product on this forum that get good results, not to be dissuaded by a one time opinion. I would go through some serious evaluations of what I was using, and how I was using it, before making a decision like that.

Of course it's possible to develop "favorites" in what we use. Instead of bashing a product, I would suggest trying it out for oneself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul
5. The 1.4mm nozzle would work alright for wood finishes. Personally I don't like a HVLP sprayer and
almost wish I hadn't bought one. They come in handy when you use some high dollar automotive

finishes where you are trying to use every drop. A conventional gun will take a couple of ounces
in the cup to make it work. I find a conventional sprayer much more convenient for wood
finishes. You don't have to carry around a special stand to put the gun up. You can just unplug
it and set it on the table.
You might not be familiar with spray guns. Not all HVLP guns are gravity type guns. As an example, this gun is an HVLP, and is in conventional form. You can unplug it and walk away.





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