Staining & Top Coating New French Door - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-13-2013, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Staining & Top Coating New French Door

I am going to stain a top coat a new French door made from pine. The glass has a plastic film on it that actually goes under the window frames by a very small amount (1/32?). I am concerned that if I apply stain and wipe on 6 top coats that when I later remove the plastic film that some of the stain and top coats will tear off.

Should I remove the plastic first ahead of time and then use a razor blade scraper after staining and top coating have been done to clean up the glass?

Thanks

Gary
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-13-2013, 02:46 PM
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You could leave the plastic on, then after finishing the wood, see if it wants to take the finish with it when you peel the plastic back. If it does, take a razor blade and just cut the plastic at the edge of the wood.
Easy peasy.

Acer
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post #3 of 9 Old 10-13-2013, 03:02 PM
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Or you could learn to properly wield a paint brush and do it without getting anything on the glass
;-p.

Seriously, it doesn't take that much longer.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #4 of 9 Old 10-13-2013, 10:23 PM
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I wouldn't worry about the peal coat. I would leave it on as masking to keep the finish off the glass. I've never pealed off a wood finish with the masking. It should be hard enough the peal coat should tear rather than lifting the finish. I think the worst thing that would happen is you would have to cut the peal coat with a straight edge razor after the finishing is done. If you were working with latex paint I could see it being an issue but not a clear coating.
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post #5 of 9 Old 10-14-2013, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acercanto View Post
You could leave the plastic on, then after finishing the wood, see if it wants to take the finish with it when you peel the plastic back. If it does, take a razor blade and just cut the plastic at the edge of the wood.
Easy peasy.

Acer
Makes sense Acer. Thank you.

Gary
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post #6 of 9 Old 10-14-2013, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustfactory View Post
Or you could learn to properly wield a paint brush and do it without getting anything on the glass
;-p.

Seriously, it doesn't take that much longer.
I have seen it done so I know it is possible. But I do not have that level of skill.

Gary
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post #7 of 9 Old 10-14-2013, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I wouldn't worry about the peal coat. I would leave it on as masking to keep the finish off the glass. I've never pealed off a wood finish with the masking. It should be hard enough the peal coat should tear rather than lifting the finish. I think the worst thing that would happen is you would have to cut the peal coat with a straight edge razor after the finishing is done. If you were working with latex paint I could see it being an issue but not a clear coating.
Thanks Steve. Based on the feedback from you and Acer that is the approach that I will take.

Gary
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post #8 of 9 Old 10-14-2013, 08:03 AM
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You could just leave the masking on, and use a utility knife, or an X-Acto knife with blade #11, to cut out the masking. Or, you can use a glass masking, like this.






.
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post #9 of 9 Old 10-15-2013, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
You could just leave the masking on, and use a utility knife, or an X-Acto knife with blade #11, to cut out the masking. Or, you can use a glass masking, like this.










.
Thanks Cabinetman. I had never seen that glass masking solution before.

Gary
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