Staining Pine - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-06-2012, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Staining Pine

I've stained pine before with mixed results. I've a couple cans of sanding sealer; but I did a search here and found that it won't do what I thought it would. I've got some wood conditioner that is suppose to even out the penetration of stain. Does it actually work? you're suppose to stain the wood within two hours it drying. Does that sound right?

Any better ways to stain pine?
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 02:07 AM
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Yes wood conditioner will help keep pine from going blotchy when staining it. You should try it on scraps before you use it on a project. You may need to thin the conditioner down or let it dry longer than the directions say due to weather conditions. Some wood conditioners do say to stain within a window. I would stick to the directions unless it's not working well and then try something else. You can even use a oil stain itself as a wood conditioner. Just thin it down a lot and stain it first with the watered down stain, let it dry and then come back with the full strength stain. You can also thin linseed oil and use that for a wood conditioner. Personally what I like to do is use the linseed oil solution, let it dry and then mostly stain the wood with an aniline dye. Then I stain over it with a pigmented oil stain similar in color to the aniline dye to give the wood more warmth. After that is dry it is ready for the sanding sealer.
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 04:38 AM
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I have heard many talk of issues staining pine. Personally I have had little to no problem unless I have not done the entire surface in one treatment or have dripped stain on sections already stained without immediately wiping it up and working it in.

The biggest trick to pine I have found is to do it quick and wipe it off reasonably quick as well.

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post #4 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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... After that is dry it is ready for the sanding sealer.
Thanks I'll give it a try on a test piece.
I'm confused, you still use sanding sealer over the stain? What's its purpose? Don't you simply put on poly, etc?
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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....have dripped stain on sections already stained without immediately wiping it up and working it in.

The biggest trick to pine I have found is to do it quick and wipe it off reasonably quick as well.

Dave The Turning Cowboy
Thanks
Yes, that's part of my problem in the past. Getting it wiped off quick enough and overlaps, runs, etc.
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 07:05 AM
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Thanks
Yes, that's part of my problem in the past. Getting it wiped off quick enough and overlaps, runs, etc.
You might try putting it on with a cloth and you can wipe it off almost as you put it on. Doing it this way you may need to do 2 coats to get your desired colour but you will probably find you get a more even finish that way.

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post #7 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 08:32 AM
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Thanks I'll give it a try on a test piece.
I'm confused, you still use sanding sealer over the stain? What's its purpose? Don't you simply put on poly, etc?
You can just put poly directly over the stain. After the first coat is put on and dried you will find out the surface will feel a little rough. What is happening is the fibers of the grain have stood up and are suspended in the poly. You will need to sand it smooth with 220x or finer sandpaper before applying another coat. The sanding sealer is formulated to be easier to sand so this step is less labor intensive than if you used just poly which is harder and tougher to sand.

For the most part pine will stain very easy without wood conditioners however you can build a project and have a board or two in it that is very prone to go blotchy. It's just better to take steps to pre-treat the project just in case it has one of these boards. Once the board has gone blotchy it's a major job to get the stain out of the board. Sanding the wood to finer grit sandpaper will help a lot too. The smoother the project is sanded the less likely there will be a spot that will drink up the stain. You might want to read the thread below in this section "Blotched job-stained pine". They had a person that was suppose to be a professional finisher do some pine woodwork for them and they didn't use a wood conditioner. In the pictures some of it looks fine and other places have some pretty bad looking spots.
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 08:49 AM
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Blotching

I use Charles Neill's "Blotch Control," or hide glue sizing. These two items have given me great results with pine, fir and poplar to name a few.
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-07-2012, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djg View Post
I've stained pine before with mixed results. I've a couple cans of sanding sealer; but I did a search here and found that it won't do what I thought it would. I've got some wood conditioner that is suppose to even out the penetration of stain. Does it actually work? you're suppose to stain the wood within two hours it drying. Does that sound right?

Any better ways to stain pine?
watch this video and you deside, i use the conditioner and it work's, pine is a bad wood to stain, good luck
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-12-2012, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to say thanks for the help and reasurance. This is just a second hand table that I was refinishing; nothing major. But using the conditioner gave me an even finish - no blotching. I was able to lay it on with a cloth and rub it out at the same time.
Thanks
Now for the sanding sealer and poly.
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post #11 of 12 Old 12-12-2012, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I've got another problem. I thought I understood the proper use for sanding sealer after you explained it to me. But the can of Minwax sanding sealer states it's for bare wood only. Are all sanding sealers made for bare wood only or is it just this particular can that I have? Should I just ignore the statement on the can and use it over the stain? Will it still adhere as well to the stain as it would to bare wood (soaking in)? Or should I just forget the sanding sealer and put poly over the stain and be done with it?
Thanks for your help.
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post #12 of 12 Old 12-12-2012, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by djg View Post
Well, I've got another problem. I thought I understood the proper use for sanding sealer after you explained it to me. But the can of Minwax sanding sealer states it's for bare wood only. Are all sanding sealers made for bare wood only or is it just this particular can that I have? Should I just ignore the statement on the can and use it over the stain? Will it still adhere as well to the stain as it would to bare wood (soaking in)? Or should I just forget the sanding sealer and put poly over the stain and be done with it?
Thanks for your help.
Having a wood conditioner and stain on wood is still considered bare wood. They just mean don't put sanding sealer over varnish or other film coating. I applaud you for reading the instructions though. If it wasn't for taking up most of the label with hazard warnings in two or three languages they might have been more specific.
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