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post #21 of 32 Old 01-05-2012, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quick Follow Up Question....

So I mixed my own brew. Like the way it goes on and looks. Do I leave it on and let it dry on its own or do i wipe it off after a certain period of time?

Thanks/
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post #22 of 32 Old 01-05-2012, 06:21 PM
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Quick Follow Up Question....

So I mixed my own brew. Like the way it goes on and looks. Do I leave it on and let it dry on its own or do i wipe it off after a certain period of time?

Thanks/
Wipe on thin applications and let it dry.






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post #23 of 32 Old 01-05-2012, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Wipe on thin applications and let it dry.









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Thank you good sir......I also realized that it needs to be worked into or gently rubbed into the wood. Makes a huge difference that way. I was basically just laying it on the surface of the wood and it was kind of just sitting there....rubbing it in really makes it pop.....
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post #24 of 32 Old 01-11-2012, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Follow Up

Hello,

Just wanted to follow up on this original thread...

So i mixed three equal parts of BLO, oil-based poly and mineral spirits.

I wiped in on with a clean soft rag in very thin coats. I actually gently massaged it into the wood as well on the first two coats. I did not wipe off the excess. I simply let it dry between coats. The first couple of coats were pretty much entirely absorbed by the wood. I then applied one more coat in the same manner as above with no massageing, and after one full week of drying I am starting to get a slight build on the wood but it is splotchy and tacky in some but not all areas.(I used a semi-gloss poly).

The applications and drying proccess have all been done in my home which is a constant 70 degrees with typical consistent indoor humidity levels.

This was more of an experiment than anything else so the results are not super critical but I am wondering what my next steps should be and whether or not I may have done anything incorrectly. Should i continue to apply until I reach a consistent semi glosss sheen or stop where I am right now? Should I change the ratios of my mix?

The wood I am applying the material to is birch, pine and maple.

Last edited by Tom5151; 01-11-2012 at 01:54 PM.
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post #25 of 32 Old 01-11-2012, 01:55 PM
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I wiped in on with a clean soft rag in very thin coats. I actually gently massaged it into the wood as well on the first two coats. I did not wipe off the excess. I simply let it dry between coats. The first couple of coats were pretty much entirely absorbed by the wood. I then applied one more coat in the same manner as above and I am just now starting to get a build on the wood but it is splotchy and tacky in some but not all areas.(I used a semi-gloss poly).
You should apply thin coats and wipe off excess. The pad should create smooth paths. You likely have heavy and thin areas. It could take a couple of more applications.






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post #26 of 32 Old 01-11-2012, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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You should apply thin coats and wipe off excess. The pad should create smooth paths. You likely have heavy and thin areas. It could take a couple of more applications.








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ah...so it should be wiped off...I realize I am probably thinking about this incorrectly but wouldn't wiping the excess off keep it from building a film finish with the poly?

would you say wait about 5 or 10 minutes before wiping off excess?

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post #27 of 32 Old 01-11-2012, 02:40 PM
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The first two coats need to be absorbed. The third apply a thinner coat if the the surface is blotchy it means those areas are still absorbing the oil
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post #28 of 32 Old 01-11-2012, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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I've read where some folks will rub the oil in with 0000 steel wool. I assume that is just for pure oils like tung or linseed, and not the mixture I have created, is that correct?
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post #29 of 32 Old 01-11-2012, 03:37 PM
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I've read where some folks will rub the oil in with 0000 steel wool. I assume that is just for pure oils like tung or linseed, and not the mixture I have created, is that correct?
Actually, you shouldn't use pure oil for a first coat… it has too many solids and will not penetrate the wood as well as a mixture will.

A lot of folks shy away from steel wool, due to the fact that it breaks off tiny slivers when used. Those can get embedded into the finish. An open coat sand paper will not clog up and runs less risk of leaving particles behind when proper cleaning is done between coats.

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post #30 of 32 Old 01-11-2012, 03:41 PM
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A heads up: BLO will darken and gum with age. If the piece you are finishing is important to you, a high grade tung oil is the finish of choice. It will not change appreciably with age, other than to get dryer. Sutherland Welles is an excellent brand.

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post #31 of 32 Old 01-12-2012, 04:36 PM
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Watco, Minwax Tung Oil Finish and your home brew are what are known as oil/varnish mixtures. Oil/varnish mixtures are not intended to build a d film on the surface. They are intended to be absorbed into the wood leaving an in-the-wood finish that maintains the look and feel of the wood. It is a low gloss leaving a sort of soft, warm glow to the wood. It's a particularly attractive finish for dark woods like cherry and walnut.

The application process for oil/varnishes is as already stated. Apply, let set 15-20 minutes and then wipe dry. Let it dry ovenight and do it again. Two coats is sufficient and more than two will leave an oily, soft surface that will pick up dust and fingerprints. Some folks like to apply the second coat usins 4/0 steel wool or gray Scotchbrite. Rub in the direction of the grain, let set 15-20 minutes and wipe off the excess. This application process will leave a somewhat smoother finish.

If you did not wipe off the excess on your project you can use mineral oil rubbed on with 4/0 steel wool and rubbing in the direction of the grain. Use lots of paper towels to wipe up the gunk. Let it dry for a couple of days. The wipe on a coat of finish thoroughly wiping off any excess.

Howie..........
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post #32 of 32 Old 01-12-2012, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Watco, Minwax Tung Oil Finish and your home brew are what are known as oil/varnish mixtures. Oil/varnish mixtures are not intended to build a d film on the surface. They are intended to be absorbed into the wood leaving an in-the-wood finish that maintains the look and feel of the wood. It is a low gloss leaving a sort of soft, warm glow to the wood. It's a particularly attractive finish for dark woods like cherry and walnut.

The application process for oil/varnishes is as already stated. Apply, let set 15-20 minutes and then wipe dry. Let it dry ovenight and do it again. Two coats is sufficient and more than two will leave an oily, soft surface that will pick up dust and fingerprints. Some folks like to apply the second coat usins 4/0 steel wool or gray Scotchbrite. Rub in the direction of the grain, let set 15-20 minutes and wipe off the excess. This application process will leave a somewhat smoother finish.

If you did not wipe off the excess on your project you can use mineral oil rubbed on with 4/0 steel wool and rubbing in the direction of the grain. Use lots of paper towels to wipe up the gunk. Let it dry for a couple of days. The wipe on a coat of finish thoroughly wiping off any excess.
Thank you very much.......this is very helpful.......i have wiped on about 4 coats now and it just doesnt seem to be resulting in a nice even finish......now I know not to expect a build based on your email but I was hoping that it would not be splotchy which it still is after 4 coats. I am applying to maple, birch and pine.......i just did the last coat with steel wool and that seemed to help but still not a nice even coverage like I had hoped...
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