Need help with DIY project. Changing the color of wooden base - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 Old 10-12-2017, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
View Lee Neravo's Photo Album My Photos
Need help with DIY project. Changing the color of wooden base

I have a massage table like this:
https://cdn3.volusion.com/t5h6r.4srq...jpg?1404908301
the base is light brown and looks like it's covered in polyurethane. I want to change it to a glossy black.
Just want to make sure i'm on the right track here:
sand it down, rough and work up to 320 or so? then apply color and finish?
any special paints i should use? spray paint or brush it on? do i need to do any sanding between coats?
thanks for any help
Lee Neravo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old 10-13-2017, 08:22 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,174
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
If it were me I would scuff sand the polyurethane and topcoat it with a gloss oil based enamel and call it done. The finish would look a lot smoother and more professional if you would spray the paint. If you have compressed air a twenty dollar harbor freight sprayer would spray it just fine.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old 10-13-2017, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
View Lee Neravo's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
If it were me I would scuff sand the polyurethane and topcoat it with a gloss oil based enamel and call it done. The finish would look a lot smoother and more professional if you would spray the paint. If you have compressed air a twenty dollar harbor freight sprayer would spray it just fine.
thanks for the reply. is there a gloss oil based enamel in a spray can (like spray paint bottle) that i could use?
Lee Neravo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 Old 10-13-2017, 09:10 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 705
View gj13us's Photo Album My Photos
I recommend a black wipe-on stain and clear poly from General Finishes. We've been using it a lot around our house and love it. Very easy to use. It's oil based. Bought through Amazon.
gj13us is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 10-13-2017, 09:28 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,174
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Neravo View Post
thanks for the reply. is there a gloss oil based enamel in a spray can (like spray paint bottle) that i could use?
You might be able to use rattle can paint but you need to test a spot first. Rattle can paints contain strong solvents which may lift the polyurethane finish. Then since they are designed to dry fast you may have difficulty painting a large project without getting lap marks. It might be necessary to apply an extra coat or two and then do a lot of rubbing with rubbing compound to eliminate lap marks. Start from the top down and work as fast as you can.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 10-13-2017, 09:31 AM
Senior Member
 
Maylar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Central Connecticut
Posts: 1,151
View Maylar's Photo Album My Photos
Gloss enamel in a spray can can be had from any big box store (think Rustolium). I'd scuff it with a grey Scotch pad, that'd give you the equivalent of about 400 grit paper and be easier on curved surfaces.

Dave in CT, USA
Maylar is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old 10-13-2017, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
View Lee Neravo's Photo Album My Photos
thanks for all replies. is there any reason i'm getting more suggestions for enamel vs lacquer? what if i'm working somewhere with limited ventilation?
Lee Neravo is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 10-13-2017, 04:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Maylar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Central Connecticut
Posts: 1,151
View Maylar's Photo Album My Photos
Enamel is more resistant to chemicals, like alcohol, than lacquer - tho for a massage table base that probably doesn't matter. And it's more flexible and would recover from being kicked, where lacquer might chip. Both would require ventilation of the fumes.

Dave in CT, USA
Maylar is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
JET XACTA + Mobile Base Wil_Bloodworth Power Tools & Machinery 12 06-06-2017 05:02 PM
Some router advice needed please-help me spend some money ponch37300 General Woodworking Discussion 15 04-10-2017 08:14 PM
Our Community Service Project Build TimeTurnsElastic General Woodworking Discussion 0 04-12-2016 04:13 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome