My second go at spraying - looking for advice - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 50 Old 10-05-2017, 06:25 PM
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that's not what I was asking for... your guns

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Originally Posted by Maylar View Post
Depends on the gun. They make a lot of 'em. Typical full size automotive guns need 11-15 cfm, the smaller touchup or spot repair guns are in the 4-5 cfm range.

I have a DeVilBiss Finishline II that says 12 cfm @ 23 psi inlet, A Sharpe Platinum that needs 9 cfm @50, and a Sata MiniJet 2 touchup gun that needs 4 cfm @40.

My first gun, a Binks suction feed conventional touchup, only needs 2.8 cfm @45 psi. But it's very inefficient, probably in the 25% transfer efficiency range. Makes a lot of overspray.
It's all very interesting info, but it will not help us with Quickstep's issue because they are not the guns he's using...... I asked because I think he is "over gunned" and the air flow won't atomize the finish properly because of the reduction in line size, mentioned by Color Stylist and possibly lack of volume from the compressor for the CFMs the gun requires.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #42 of 50 Old 10-05-2017, 09:49 PM
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PSI vs CFM
Even a little bitty cheap compressor might give you 100 lbs PSI but it can’t run a sprayer because of a lack of CFM.
Most sprayers don’t need too much PSI but the CFM is critical.

There is much written on the cause of orange peel and how to avoid it.
When all else fails, go to the rattle cans! Ha

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #43 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 12:12 AM
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I used the Behlen Stringed Instrument lacquer several years ago. If I recall correctly it is formulated as ready to spray, no thinning. I sprayed several build coats without thinning. Wet sanded with 1200 grit before last coat. The very last coat can be thinned a little bit, maybe 10% - 20% for final flow out. (I dont remember exactly). All coats went down wet, no orange peel. I used a conventional suction gun, not HVLP. Your very first coat should be the Behlen vinyl sealer which is designed as the base to be used under the Stringed Instrument lacquer.
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post #44 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 07:17 AM
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Tom is right.

"Stringed Instrument Lacquer finish has better resistance to cold-checking and scuffs than standard furniture lacquer. It's ready to spray with no thinning required, for faster finish build-up in multiple coats. This lacquer is designed for use on wood which has been sealed with Behlen Vinyl Sealer, or on unfinished wood."

If your reducing this lacquer that much and getting orange peel, your laying down too much material at 1 time.

Your seeing PIN holes because you have cut the solids in the lacquer down so much your basically shooting lacquer thinner. You should be able to spray that lacquer straight out of the can.

My next worry would be if that touch up gun has a big enough orfice tip size to spray the lacquer. You would need a 1.4 - 1.8 to shoot it comfortably.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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post #45 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 07:19 AM
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You also need to apply a sealer under that lacquer as suggested because that lacquer is not a self seal material.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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post #46 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I don't know what brand of lacquer you are spraying. It's been a very long time since I've had one you could cut 50%. Most today you either don't thin or thin maybe 10%. You may just be thinning too much if it doesn't look glassy when wet.
Completely agree. I start out any new spray job with little or even no thinning.

George
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post #47 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColorStylist View Post
<snip>
My next worry would be if that touch up gun has a big enough orfice tip size to spray the lacquer. You would need a 1.4 - 1.8 to shoot it comfortably.
And this again depends on the gun. My experience is with automotive finishes, but I've found that the touch up guns seem to do fine with a smaller tip than full size guns. Dunno why that is. For instance, typical base/clears need a 1.4 on a production gun but spray OK with a 1.0 on my MiniJet. Unfortunately, only experience can get you where you want to be but the gun manufacturer's recommendations are a good place to start.

Dave in CT, USA
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post #48 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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I sprayed the Behlens Stringed Instrument Lacquer full strength for my first try. I got quite a bit more orange peel that I wanted, that's why I started thinning. My spray gun has three tips, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5

Now that I have a little better feel for the gun, maybe I should have another go at spraying full strength using the 1.5 tip and maybe with a tinch more pressure. What do you think?
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post #49 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstep View Post
I sprayed the Behlens Stringed Instrument Lacquer full strength for my first try. I got quite a bit more orange peel that I wanted, that's why I started thinning. My spray gun has three tips, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5

Now that I have a little better feel for the gun, maybe I should have another go at spraying full strength using the 1.5 tip and maybe with a tinch more pressure. What do you think?
Just try it and see what happens.
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post #50 of 50 Old 10-07-2017, 11:36 AM
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I still think you should also try to move faster on your spray patterns. Just simply move faster. A little more air will not hurt either.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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